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Thread: Krag Sporter project

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Krag Sporter project

    Krags are a different animal from a bedding standpoint. It has two action screws like most bolt actions, but they are to the rear of the action and are quite close together. In the original military configuration, the rear barrel/stock band helps to hold things together. On a sporter, using an added screw in the forearm is one method of securing the barreled action.

    I found an unfinished project last year. The time has come to get it completed.

    As you can see in the pics, nothing has been done in that area yet. I found a band that was used to attach a sling directly to the barrel. It has a #12 tapped hole for a sling swivel. It has simply been slid down the barrel to see where it stops. It is not welded or otherwise attached just yet.

    I am contemplating permanently affixing the band, drilling a hole through the forend for a screw that will come up from the bottom. The question is how to affix the band.

    Both the barrel and the band are nicely blued. Ideally, I do not want to reblue other than a cold blue touch up. I think the only two methods that might work would be epoxy or a low temp silver-bearing solder.

    Your comments and advice are welcome!

    Ken
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSCN3501 (2).jpg   DSCN3502 (2).jpg   DSCN3503 (2).jpg   DSCN3504 (2).jpg  

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master Char-Gar's Avatar
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    Afix the band with glas bedding compound.
    Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

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    You can use a band to support the action but what I have done several times is to go to that round section of barrel just in front of the forward receiver ring and drill and tap 1/4"x28. Be careful on depth, do not go too deep but deep enough to get at least a few good threads, try to get ( if enough meat is there to work with ) to get a thread depth close to equal to thread diameter.
    Best to do this in a mill to get everything where it belongs.
    Then make up some kind of escutcheon, brass, copper, stainless or blued carbon steel that you can inlet into the stock . Follow up with a good glass bedding job and you will find it will greatly enhance the accuracy.
    Barrel bands are solid but often too solid and will effect accuracy especially as things warm up from shooting. The three stock bolt concept does not put undue pressure on either barrel or action.
    Facta non verba

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    I favor the barrel band approach. I wouldn't rely on epoxy (or any "glass bedding compound" which is nothing but epoxy) because with time and constant heating/cooling cycles when shooting it'll lose its bond and then you'll be soldering it on like you should've in the first place. Been there done that, got the tee shirt. I've contemplated the third screw approach, and if I did it I think I would d/t into the bottom of the receiver ring instead of the chamber area of the barrel.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    my first krag was a botched up sporter . I bought a new fajen sportier stock for it and bedded the bottom and rear of the receiver. it came with a barrel band that was used for the front sling swivel. I drilled a thru hole in the front of the new wood and used a screw to " pull down " on the bbl band similar to pre 64 mod. 70s . I forgot to ad that it is also bedded under the front of the receiver and 1.5 inches of the bbl. the best part is that I have shot several 10 shot groups that hovered at 1.5 inches and 1 @ 1.3 . this is with a receiver sight and a globe front sight

  6. #6
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    I also wouldn't drill into the chamber area of the barrel, and favor a barrel band. Like porthos, I think that if you can get the barrel band to do double duty as the anchor for a sling swivel it's the way to go. In your photo, top right, the band seems to already have a hole in it. Perhaps you can just tap it for a fixed swivel to screw into. If you decide to go this route then you don't really need to glue or solder down the ring as once you locate it and drill the hole in the stock for the swivel whenever you disassemble it from the stock that will be the only location it can return to.
    Attachment 154619

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    I measured the diameter of the barrel just ahead of the ring. It's only .990" so the chamber wall thickness is only .250" or so.

    That band system of the Winchester sounds intriguing.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    BTW, this is what my band looks like. It's.785" ID.




  9. #9
    Boolit Master Von Gruff's Avatar
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    This one post on a Martini sporting rifle I have just finished and shows the barrel band method of fixing the forend.

    The first chore today was to fit the barrel band attachment for the forestock and as it was smaller in inside diameter than needed to get as far up the barrel as the forestock dimensions required. A piece of 220 grit wet and dry was wrapped around the barrel with the band over it and by working it back and forward and having many tries I was able to increase the I D.


    Still a way to go as I wanted it to cover the main pin hole for the original rear sight . ( this is a good take-off smle barrel) The cross barrel pin hole can have a pin driven in and dressed off later on.


    Having marked where it was to go to on the barrel and transferred the marking to the forestock it was time to remove a little wood



    Full thread here
    http://forums.nitroexpress.com/showf...e=0#Post273104
    Von Gruff.

    Exodus 20:1-17

    Acts 4:10-12

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master pietro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Der Gebirgsjager View Post

    If you decide to go this route then you don't really need to glue or solder down the ring as once you locate it and drill the hole in the stock for the swivel whenever you disassemble it from the stock that will be the only location it can return to.

    This........


    .

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check