Is building or buying a PID really worth it instead of a thermometer for lee 4-20?

[wv109323]

The PID would definitely help over temperature when the pot gets low. My Lyman 20 lb. pot had the bi-metal thermostat external to the pot. So the "on-off" of the heating element was controlled by the air temperature of the "housing" where the thermostat was mounted.
The PID gets the lead temperature via the thermocouple that is immersed in the molten lead. The PID can control temperatures by + or- 10 degrees.
I switched to the PID after three rebuilds of the wiring and terminals of the factory set-up. The next rebuild would have required the thermostat replacement. I was going to have $40. in the rebuild and could get the PID for $80. I went with the PID and my casting is a lot better.
I never had a thermometer so I was just "in the dark". With time the setting of the thermostat needed to be set higher and higher til it finally died. I also had no idea when the lead was back up to temp. after adding ingots.
I recommend the PID. Also get a hot plate to pre-heat your molds.

[Ranger 7]

Casting for 9 years using thermometer to regulate the temperature.
Been using A Lyman 25 for a bit over a month and the temperature stays within 8 degrees.
Bullets are round and tight diameter (N0 more sizing) and within 0 to plus 0.8 Grains, Yes 0.8 grains.
Best and most consistent bullets I ever produced!
The Lyman 25 Magnum is very well spent money!

[chrisstophere]

Casting for 9 years using thermometer to regulate the temperature.
Been using A Lyman 25 for a bit over a month and the temperature stays within 8 degrees.
Bullets are round and tight diameter (N0 more sizing) and within 0 to plus 0.8 Grains, Yes 0.8 grains.
Best and most consistent bullets I ever produced!
The Lyman 25 Magnum is very well spent money!

I thought I read somewhere about the mold tray not fitting all molds very well with that pot. Did they redo the design or something?

[mgread]

What my PID look like running. I added a thermocouple plugged so if I want I can use it on other pieces of equipment.

[edctexas]

In the long run you are the only one that can determine its worth. If you are just a "plinker" at heart, you might easily do without one. If you enjoy chasing smaller groups and a more useful velocity, you would probably want a PID. I was p***d off by the Lee thermostat and built a PID for it. It did reduce the spread of boolit weight. So its a user choice thing.

Ed C I love my PID! But I don't really really need it.

[chrisstophere]

I'm thinking I want one more cause I like gadgets more than anything. Luckily I'm broke now and won't have some cash till xmas so I have some time to think about this.

[Retumbo]

Its all about consistency and repeatability.

[edler7]

I built one about 4 years ago and use it every time I cast. It's nice to be able to see the temp of my alloy and also seeing it is always within 1-2 degrees of where I want it. My pour stays the same temp no matter how full or empty my pot is. I put in a load of sprues or some bars and there is no guessing when my pot is back up to temp, I know by the readout. If I want to raise or lower my pot temp, no problem and it takes about 10 seconds to punch in the change. Try raising or lowering your melt temp 20 degrees with the knob on your pot.

I bought my my parts from Auberins and have not had a single problem with them, they are good quality.

I'd give up a mold before I would get rid of my PID. It has eliminated a large variable that was mostly uncontrolled from my casting.

[chrisstophere]

So here's a decision I'm trying to make. Do I spend approximately 150$ on a quality PID for 60$ pot or go the extra mile and get a Lyman pro 25 that has a built in PID along with a shelf warmer. I'm now thinking 2 pots are better than 1.

[dragon813gt]

Keep the Lee pot and put a PID on it. The Lyman pot hasn't been tested for longevity. The extra five pound capacity is nice but the mold guide is worthless. And so is Lyman's customer service. If you want an all in one package then buy the Lyman. I use my PID on more than just the lead pot.

[wv109323]

The mold guide on the Lyman fits a limited number of molds. What I did was take the U-channel and flip it over on the support.. The mold guide is now flat on top and you can use any width mold. It was a pretty simple but the channel had to be drilled to accept a countersunk bolt. This allowed the surface to remain flat.

[P Flados]

Some relatively recent "low dollar - do it yourself" experiences are at:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-4-20-110v-pot

[Beagle333]

I would want my PID to be a separate unit. I use my PID for my lead pot, my mold warmer oven (hot plate and gallon coffee can), my powdercoating oven, my lubesizer heaters and my smelting pot. I just have several thermocouples (probes) and they are attached to each device. I just use the little K-type thermocouple plugs to move the PID from one application to another.

[10x]

I cast bullets for years without a thermometer,
then I got a thermometer and casting good bullets became easier
Then I built a PID with parts ordered directly from China and casting bullets became easy and fun.
Cost of the PID, SSR, Thermocouple, and small spade connectors was about $25.00.

Now I have precise (real time) temperature reading and and the PID keeps the lead pot at a constant temperature.
I built a second PID unit for my hotplate mold warmer. Suddenly I was getting good bullets on the first cast.

I use the Rex c100 (in centigrade only) for Solid state relay (SSR) because it is cheaper that way. I used Excel to make up a F to C conversion sheet.

What to watch for
1) make sure the PID runs on 110 to 120 VAC
2) make sure the PID has SSR output - if it does not you will be taking the PID cover off, removing the internal 3 amp mechanical relay and soldering in 2 jumper cables - easy to do if you have the skill (video on this on Youtube) but also easy to destroy the printed circuit
3) make sure you get the K thermocouple with a 4" to 6" probe.


The internal relay can be used with a 9V battery to run an SSR but why add to the expense and wiring?

[chrisstophere]

I have to say everyone's response isn't making this easy. Lucky I won't have extra income until late December because of the holidays so I have time whether to invest in a PID, and if so, build it myself or buy from a forum vendor (I like supporting forum sponsers) or stick with the thermometer method and get better at learning my molds with what I have and maybe getting a NOE mold with the saved funds. Right now I'm hoping I can get the wife to buy it for me from a forum sponser.
Happy post turkey day all as well.

[jgh4445]

PFlados shows some inexpensive PIDs in post #33. In post #17 of that link, there is a $50 unit. Could that unit be wried up to make it possible to use it on a 10lb and a 20lb pot? I assume an additional thermocoupler and probe would need to be bought , for the second unit. What else would be needed. I know the square root of zero about electrical stuff but I can plug stuff in to a wall socket. I'd rather just buy a complete unit from a forum vendor or sponsor if I can find one in my price range.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

PFlados shows some inexpensive PIDs in post #33. In post #17 of that link, there is a $50 unit. Could that unit be wried up to make it possible to use it on a 10lb and a 20lb pot? I assume an additional thermocoupler and probe would need to be bought , for the second unit. What else would be needed. I know the square root of zero about electrical stuff but I can plug stuff in to a wall socket. I'd rather just buy a complete unit from a forum vendor or sponsor if I can find one in my price range.

at the same time ? No
while the PID in that link you mention, says dual display...it is not a dual controller. The Dual display means one display shows the setpoint and the other shows the temp the probe is reading.

Here is a dual PID thread by theperfesser. You will need two of everything.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ure-Controller

[jgh4445]

No, I don't want to run them at the same time. Sometimes I ladle cast from my 20lb and sometimes bottom pour from my 10lb pot.

[dragon813gt]

Depending on on the type and how you mount the thermocouple you can move it between pots. The thermocouples are cheap on eBay. I suggest you buy a few extra because they do fail. I'm on my second one but have four more waiting when this one fails.

[matrixcs]

I read the threads here and decided to make my own. Found a metal box the right size. Purchased parts on **ay according to the threads here. Put them together and they worked (after I reversed the thermocouple connection)... I found it makes my casting more consistent and warm up time is reduced thanks to pot not cycling on and off with its own controller then it does not overshoot the desired temp. . I have used it to control my toaster oven for more consistent PC bake temperature. My cost was <$50 and I vote...must have..