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Thread: RCBS ladle problem

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Clarksville, TN
    Posts
    47

    RCBS ladle problem

    RCBS Ladle-I'm having issues with my new ladle.

    As my lead is heating up and melting, my ladle is sitting on top of the pot also warming up. When it is casting time, my "first" dip of the ladle in the lead is the problem. The lead immediately sticks all over the ladle inside and out. Sitting the ladle back into the pot did nothing to free the stuck lead. I used a propane torch and melted all the lead off and tried it again and it worked perfect and I was able to cast as many bullets as I needed. A couple of days later, I went out to cast some more and this time placed the ladle on the hot plate with my mold that was also warming up. Again, the first dip lead stuck all over the ladle and I had to use the propane torch to remove the lead. After the lead was removed, it worked without issue until I was through for the day.

    It seems like a heat issue, but the molds and pot are working fine and my temperature is running around 740 to 755. I cleaned the ladle when I got it and the second time I smoked the ladle before using.

    Any suggestion?

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master
    bangerjim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    out of here, wandering somewhere in the SW.
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    On the very VERY rare times I use my CI RCBS ladle, I just keep in IN the molten lead from the point the alloy is at the molten point. Not on a plate, not on the rim. Neither have enough surface contact with the ladle to let it get to full casting temp. Just keep it in the pool and it will be at a perfect temp. Just be careful you do not hit the handle or you will have a silver shower. Safety 1st ............always.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
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    14,562
    The ladle need to be submersed in the metal and kept as hot as possible in this manner. once my pot starts to get molten i set the ladle in it and submerse as soon as I can, Normally when the pot is up to temp so is the ladle. I installed a stop collar on my ladles shaft for a stop. I can hook this on the edge of my pot and submerse the ladle with out it sliding into the pot now. Some castings are "rough" enough that lead tends to stick also. You might try wire brushing the ladle with dremel tool to smooth the surface a little more. My ladle is in the lead anytime its not pouring a bullet. submersed and the stop hooked on edge. This keeps the ladle hot and up to temp.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master


    Walter Laich's Avatar
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    Aug 2005
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    Cypress, Republic of Texas
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    3,495
    ^ what they said.

    or you could just heat it with the torch right from the start
    NRA Life
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  5. #5
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Clarksville, TN
    Posts
    47
    I'll give that a try.
    Thanks for the reply.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Cass county, Michigan
    Posts
    658
    Put a small chunk of beeswax in the ladle before you set it on top of the molten lead and allow the heat to melt the wax. Twist and turn the ladle to coat the entire inside, and then pour the wax on top of the molten lead. Stir the wax around with the exterior of the ladle, and VERY SLOWLY submerge the ladle into the lead. Polishing the cast iron seems to help also, but keeping the ladle hot and oxide free works the best.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check