RCBS Pro2000 Q's

[zubrato]

Proud new owner of a 'new to me' manual index pro 2000, and love the press.
The best way I can describe it is if a tank, an ak47, and a swiss watch had a baby.
I do have some questions though

Primers seat flush, however when I adjusted the press stop I noticed it bottoms out on the return spring and I can't really get primers below flush.

APS strips: love them. What can I do if I have half an APS strip in the machine, and run out of brass, short of cycling the press 10-20 times? Anything I can actuate to release the strips from the feeder?

I'm not the original owner, but the RCBS manual states they ONLY cover the original owner with the box UPC and a receipt. I only have the box UPC code and it's a little sad knowing I won't have that legendary RCBS customer service. Do they demand the original owner and UPC code for little things or breakages, or only for big honking broken parts that need to be shipped back and forth?

Lastly, and most importantly as my bench begins turning beautiful shades of powdercoated green, what is the best thing I can do to prevent rust from forming short of oiling and reoiling?
I love how RCBS uses steel, but I wish they did a little better job of finishing it...
What are my options short of taking a bunch of parts to a gunsmith for a professional bluing job?
That's what I was considering doing after buying the press (used) and spending close to an hour with #0000 steel wool, q-tips, patches, and birchwood casey barricade rust preventative. Luckily it was only cosmetic, and only light rust.
I'm no slob when it comes to my tools, but If I have to leave for a few months at a time and some of my stuff is in the garage over winter I'd be heartbroken to come back and see rust spots.

[VHoward]

I have bought used equipment and had RCBS provide warranty service on it. I wouldn't worry about that, RCBS will take care of it. I have no experience with APS strips, but I would bet there is a little spring loaded catch inthe system somewhere you could depress and it would release the strip. Since you have the manual, does it have an exploded parts diagram you could study to figure it out?

[castalott]

I have seen some videos where the guy pulls the strip gently ( forward) thru the mechanism.

For rust, go to the local farm store and buy some "Fluid Film" to inhibit rust formation. I'd still check it often though.

Dale

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Hi Zubrato, I own a Pro 2000 myself. First advice I would give you is start collecting as many primer strips as you can, because you don't know when they'll stop being available. Everything else is red in the quote below:

Proud new owner of a 'new to me' manual index pro 2000, and love the press.
The best way I can describe it is if a tank, an ak47, and a swiss watch had a baby.
I do have some questions though

Primers seat flush, however when I adjusted the press stop I noticed it bottoms out on the return spring and I can't really get primers below flush?
First, measure the depth of the primer pockets of the brass you are using and measure the thickness of your primers. It may be there simply is not room to push it further down. Second, to add some more depth, glue a small thin steel washer where the primer pushes against the press. You may have to cut of modify the washer. Third, your primer punch mechanism may simply be worn. Call RCBS and get the specs, check it and if it's out of spec, they'll send you a new one.

APS strips: love them. What can I do if I have half an APS strip in the machine, and run out of brass, short of cycling the press 10-20 times? Anything I can actuate to release the strips from the feeder?
It's been a while since I've run mine and I plan my reloadin by the number of primers, so I only put a strip in if I plan to use it all up before stopping. GWhis has several very nice modifications for the primer system for convenience sake. They aren't necessary, but are simple to do and make the primer system "stoppable" during press operation and improve a couple other things. I don't think he's posted them here, but he has on BARFCom and on The High Road forums. He does great write up with pictures, you'll want to check them out.

I'm not the original owner, but the RCBS manual states they ONLY cover the original owner with the box UPC and a receipt. I only have the box UPC code and it's a little sad knowing I won't have that legendary RCBS customer service. Do they demand the original owner and UPC code for little things or breakages, or only for big honking broken parts that need to be shipped back and forth?
I've been using RCBS warranty service for several years, including items I've bought from others. To date, they've never asked me for a UPS, a receipt and I've even told them I was looking to buy an item to do a mod/blend of RCBS/Hornady powder measure/powder drop and they refused to take my money and sent me parts. Just be friendly, polite and honest when you call. Note they are out of California and ship via USPS standard mail, so delivery is sloooooow.

Lastly, and most importantly as my bench begins turning beautiful shades of powdercoated green, what is the best thing I can do to prevent rust from forming short of oiling and reoiling?
I love how RCBS uses steel, but I wish they did a little better job of finishing it...
What are my options short of taking a bunch of parts to a gunsmith for a professional bluing job?
That's what I was considering doing after buying the press (used) and spending close to an hour with #0000 steel wool, q-tips, patches, and birchwood casey barricade rust preventative. Luckily it was only cosmetic, and only light rust.
I'm no slob when it comes to my tools, but If I have to leave for a few months at a time and some of my stuff is in the garage over winter I'd be heartbroken to come back and see rust spots.
It entirely depends on what part you're discussing. My suggest is simply oil the thing down and pack it with oily wrags in a card board box. The only part I've had major problems with have been stamped steel. All of their black steel parts were black oxided (same thing as bluing), so generally speaking, they will rust unless cleaned and oiled/greased. I do suggest sand blasting/stripping the blueing off the bullet tray/brass bin mount, wiping it down with ospho, then painting it with a bake on paint. I've had that part rust up on me twice, got tired of it and painted it, problem resolved.

[Jared]

I bought my Pro 2000 in 2001 or maybe early 2002 and love it. RCBS has always been great about sending parts for anything I needed no questions asked. One of the best Warentees in the industry.

As as to the priming strip just lower your handle slightly so the primer foot is disengaged and pull them out. if you feel any abnormal resistance stop move the handle a little and try again. Sometimes the primer punch can be slightly inside the APS strip not letting it move if your handle is all the way in the resting position.

Never had any problem with rust but it lives in a climate controlled room.

Mine has has loaded a tom of ammo with very little trouble. Like all progressives there is a learning curve, but it is a forgiving press that is much smoother than other comparable presses.

I would really love to get a second before it is discontinued, as I am just finishing a dedicated reloading room and will for ononce have plenty of bench space.

[Blacktail 8541]

For removing the partial primer strip, all that is needed is to lower the handle so that the ram raises about a 1/4 inch and pull the primer strip out from the back side, ( direction of normal travel)

[zubrato]

Excellent gentlemen, thank you!
Awesome tips and advice, exactly what I was looking for!
I am starting to buy up some APS strips, luckily they're pretty cheap. I was considering a dillon, but I cannot imagine hen pecking 100 primers at a time. RCBS really needs to step up their marketing game!

Starting to eye the Auto index upgrade kit, but it looks pretty jerky... Looks like guys say its mostly the index spring, the operator speed, and adjustment of the upgrade.

Glad to see the pro2000 owners come out of the woodworks! Do you guys have any tips, or tricks for the pro2000?
I'm looking at the die plate wobble specifically, without having to purchase aftermarket parts but seems like temporary fixes, like teflon tape.

Any tips for tuning the Pro2000 to smooth out the indexing?

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

zubrato, comments in red again:

Excellent gentlemen, thank you!
Awesome tips and advice, exactly what I was looking for!
I am starting to buy up some APS strips, luckily they're pretty cheap. I was considering a dillon, but I cannot imagine hen pecking 100 primers at a time. RCBS really needs to step up their marketing game!
Sadly, their newest presses have that stupid, dangerous tube fed system. So like I said, get them while you can! I think the best way is to simply order a case of primers at a time with the size you need the most of. Save on hazard fees and stock up strips at the same time, plus you don't have to load the strips with primers.

Starting to eye the Auto index upgrade kit, but it looks pretty jerky... Looks like guys say its mostly the index spring, the operator speed, and adjustment of the upgrade.
I have the auto index press. It's not jerky at all, with the index spring from RCBS tech support and proper adjustment (a one time job), I've had fantastic operation for five years. I haven't adjusted a thing since then, just cleaned and lubed it. So if you can find it used or new at an affordable price, jump on it. The press is much faster with it and much more fun to operate.

Glad to see the pro2000 owners come out of the woodworks! Do you guys have any tips, or tricks for the pro2000?
I'm looking at the die plate wobble specifically, without having to purchase aftermarket parts but seems like temporary fixes, like teflon tape.
Die plate wobble has been a non-issue for me, period.

Any tips for tuning the Pro2000 to smooth out the indexing?
It doesn't need the indexing smoothed out to my knowledge. You just need to adjust it properly from the start and use the typical stuff knowledgeable progressive owners do to smooth out the operation of any press. Mostly stoning any rough edges, etc. But the Pro 2000 doesn't have much of that sort of stuff. It runs much smoother than my Hornady LnL ever was or my friend's 650. There are some mods you can make to improve your experience, but they are not necessary, nor do they affect operation. Check out the posts by the gentleman I spoke of before. He has had his a long time and he's got some nice mods.

[Jared]

I have only messed with the auto indexing version once and didn't like it. Unless you are running a case feeder or something like that I don't see a need. With the manual it becomes part of your flow and I turn it with my left hand that is already holding a piece Of brass to go in station one.

If if I have or buy the primer strips loaded and have all my supplies accessible. I can easily load 400 actual rounds an hour, and that is spot checking stuff, adding more powder, putting bullets and brass in the tray. If I get rolling I have timed my self doing hundred round runs at a rate of over 600 rounds per hour.

I never worried about the slight play in the plate when you push 5 cases up in it is self centering. Has no play once you get to the top of the stroke, which is where all the precision needs to be. Like a revolver a little play at rest doesn't hurt anything it is when the gun is locked up that counts.

I mainly load handgun ammo, and never had any kind of accuracy problem. Same goes for the smaller quantity of rifle ammo over the years.