7.65 Argentine

[mikeORB]

Just wondering if any one has and shoots the 7.65 Argentine. It is almost impossible to find loaded or unloaded ammo in my area. It's been handed down through my wife's family and I am trying to decided what I should do with it next.

I here about guys re-barreling it to a more modern caliber and even some that have started to cast bullets.
I don't know allot about the gun but I would be interested to hear your take on it.

[M-Tecs]

I have a nice 1909. Never looked for loaded ammo but brass and dies were not hard to find on the web.

Factory ammo here

http://ammoseek.com/ammo/7.65x53mm-mauser

http://www.ammunitiontogo.com/index....-765-argentine

brass here

http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/...roductId/12652

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/131...gentine-mauser

[mikeORB]

Wow!! How did I miss all those resources??? I guess it's time to update the search engine I use. Thanks M-Tecs.

[goryshaw]

I picked up 100x PRVI cases from Powder Valley several months ago. They are still in stock at about $48 / 100. Primer pockets are very tight, I had to chamfer the edge of the pockets and still had a hard time getting WLR primers into some of them. Now I'm waiting for finances to allow me to pickup a NOE 314299 mold for my 1909 cavalry carbine.

[waarp8nt]

I wouldn't re-barrel it unless the bore is very bad. My experience with Mauser rifles chambered in 7.65x53 is limited to one, but it was a wonderful shooter and loved cast boolits.

[Scharfschuetze]

Other than the short neck, the 7.65 Argentine is very cast boolit friendly.

I've found the heavier boolits over 4759 to shoot well in my 1891. The aforementioned NOE or Lyman 314299 is just perfect for this rifle.

Light 32/20 design boolits shoot very well over light charges of Bullseye.

Bore diameters seem to run from a tight .311 to a rather large .313 or so, so slug your bore before getting too deep into buying moulds and sizing dies.

[mikeORB]

I appreciate all the information guys. This is an 1891 Loewe as well and I believe it was manufactured around 1901. Other than a split in the forearm, the stock is in pretty good shape for being over a 100 years old. The action is tight and right but the finish is not real good. My father in-law used it to hunt white tail for many years. I would love to refinish the stock and get the action/barrel redone but I think it would ruin the gun. It will never be a show piece that is worth lots of money but I think it's better to leave it alone.

[mikeORB]

[alamogunr]

I've bookmarked this thread because I have a 1891 Argentine Mauser too. Neat guns.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...gentine-Mauser

If I could settle down on just one rifle I wanted to concentrate on, this would be a prime candidate.

[Jack Stanley]

You could go part way on clean up of that rifle by fixing the crack . A simple fix is use Gorilla glue according to the directions on the bottle . Then , clean up the adhesive the duct tape left behind . Then , depending on the finish of the rifle boiled linseed oil or pure Tung oil would blend with old military finish . If it has been finished with something more modern than that , Birchwood Casey makes a stock finish that would work . Or you could use Tung oil finish ..... which is different than pure Tung oil .

Wood workers can give you other ways to do it but that would depend on your skills with wood working tools .

Jack

[Hardcast416taylor]

I have a 91 engineers carbine and a still full miltary long rifle 1909 DWM in 7.65mm. There is a real difference in shooting these two!Robert

[blixen]

My argentine Franken-Mauser has original metal but the stock off a Schmitt-Rubin and a Williams receiver sight. It shoots .311 jacketed bullets very well. But just ok with cast. I need to consentrate on finding a boolit.

I use a Lee Brit mold honed out to .313. Pushed by 16 gr. of 2400 (when I could find 2400!). I wish the cartridge had a longer neck.

A friend has a sporter that was rechambered for .308, which is fine for cast, but seems dicey for commercial ammo.

[Dutchman]

This is an 1891 Loewe as well and I believe it was manufactured around 1901.

G-prefix serial number would date to 1895. Ludwig Loewe morphed into DWM in 1896.

Many of the 1891 that have the slightly bent bolt handle and chopped stock were done by the likes of Montgomery Ward to make them more attractive deer guns.

Some 1891 shoot cast real well when you go to .314" cast bullets.





My C-prefix was made in 1892.

[alamogunr]

As long as the subject is serial no's and mfg dates, mine has a "W" prefix. Looking here:

http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/vie...p?f=31&t=33457

Mine was mfg in 1901. I'm glad I looked before I asked someone else to look it up.

[alamogunr]

I just remembered that sometime back, maybe years, Fine Woodworking tested a lot of glues. Gorilla Glue finished out of the running. I don't know if the tests could be applicable to the situation with the rifle or not. I just remember being surprised. If I can find the article, I will reference it.

EDIT: The Fine Woodworking issue is #192(July-Aug 2007). Actually the test was for different types of glue.

The strongest was Type 1 PVA. An example is Titebond III. To repeat: I don't know if the tests could be applicable to the situation with the rifle or not. Slow set epoxy was almost as strong.

I don't know how to provide the article here. I have an account so I can access the article, but short of copying the entire article and pasting it here, the reference to the issue is the best I can do.

[blixen]

I, also, have been told by knowledgable people that Gorrilla Glue is not a good choice for stock cracks. I have had very good luck with long-set, clear epoxy. Sometimes, you need to track down what caused the crack--like recoil not being supported properly--and fix that too.

BTW, I've fixed some furniture with Gorrilla Glue and it seems bomb-proof, but smarter guys than me say not to use it.

[Scharfschuetze]

Micro Bed or Acraglass both work well with cracks. If you decide on using one, you can also glass bed your action and kill two birds with one stone. As it is what it is as a stock, you could also use a cross dowel through the cracked portion to strengthen it even more.

[Pb4me]

I use an RCBS trim die in this caliber and made some good brass for it from .25-06, .280, .30-06 brass and another that I can't remember. It couldn't be more simple to do and I haven't messed up a case yet. I have had great results from SR-4759 in the past and am currently waiting to try Accurate 5744 and my 20 grain load of 2400 that shoots like a dream in every other rifle I've tried it in. The bullet is Lyman's 314299. I loaded it to a length of 2.882", sized it large to .312, lubed it with homemade lube which is mostly beeswax and it shot into 1 and 5/8 inches at 100 yards. That was with the SR-4759 load of 18.5 grains. Velocity averaged just a little over 1600 fps. My rifle was made in 1896 and except for some idiot cutting off part of the stock, it is in about 95 percent shape with numbers matching. The 500 meter sight setting was dead on at 100 with the SR4759 load. Hope this helps.

Almost forgot, the Prvi Partizan (blue and white box commonly called PPU ammo) from Serbia shot pretty good and is reloadable. You can usually find it for under 19 dollars a box

[blixen]

Good info!

[Hardcast416taylor]

Dutchman. There was an example of those bent bolt, stock chopped `Monkey Ward` Swedes `91`s sold last week on an auction site for $135.Robert