Lube star gone- Help me find it again.

[243winxb]

Currently using White Label Lube 50/50 NRA formula in 357 and 44 magnum in S&W M28 & 29. No heater. Using the same loads/powder/cast bullets for many years. The old Alox would leave the lube star. This new Alox does not. Current lube is harder,lighter in color and leaves some lead in the first inch of my barrels. Only interested in buying over the counter lube, no homemade. What White label lube or other brand is most likely to leave a lube star?? Thank you.

[Dusty Bannister]

If the old lube was made from Alox 2138F and the new lube is made with Alox 350 that might be your problem. What do the folks at White Label Lube suggest? In reality, the 2138F is no longer available, except for some that have a supply stored away so you cut your alternatives by "no homemake" (no home made?) lube.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I hope Glenn of white label chimes in here...Because he is the one this should be addressed to...probably in private (email or PM or Phone call). Because if absolutely nothing else has changed, then it's the lube.

I've never used Glenn's 50/50, I have used another brand of 50/50. It does work well, but I found it to leave a handgun sooty/greasy, outside and inside...including a lube star. I prefer a 'cleaner' lube, as long as accuracy remains and lead fouling does not. There are lots of other choices, including some of Glenn's other lubes like BAC and Carnuba Red, which I have successfully used in revolvers, Another one I liked is Randyrat's Tac #1. But none of those are as clean as SL68B, now my lube of choice.

[runfiverun]

use what you got all you need is some oil to help the lube flow easier.
melt it down and stir in a tsp of Vaseline or some 2 stroke or some atf or some lucas oil supplement or some mineral oil or add a little scented candle wax all of them will make the lube flow easier and for a longer period of time.
then just pour it in your lube sizer.

[243winxb]

old lube was made from Alox 2138F and the new lube is made with Alox 350*

yes I think thats the problem, I
just run out of the 2138f blend, lubed bullets. I dont want to blend or make my lube. When I tried, it didnt work out well. Lube stuck in plastic tubes. Old and lazy at 71 years.

[dubber123]

yes I think thats the problem, I
just run out of the 2138f blend, lubed bullets. I dont want to blend or make my lube. When I tried, it didnt work out well. Lube stuck in plastic tubes. Old and lazy at 71 years.

I don't fool with putting it in tubes any more. I put it in tupperware containers and nuke it in the microwave to remelt it and just pour it into my sizer. You get more into the sizer this way too.

[dragon813gt]

The step up to BAC would be the way to go if you wanted to stay w/ White Label. It doesn't require a heater like their harder lubes do.

[Mal Paso]

I don't fool with putting it in tubes any more. I put it in tupperware containers and nuke it in the microwave to remelt it and just pour it into my sizer. You get more into the sizer this way too.

And No More Air Pockets!

Just don't use the new pyrex. Got a bulseye started in the bottom that kept cracking and popping after microwaving until it was pieces.

I have a metal beaker now and warm over a small burner.

[Harter66]

I know a whippersnapper like me shouldn't be poking the bears.
How's the throat in the cylinder look ? Did you possibly size a batch 356 instead of 358 ? My mentors (all of the old guys here) always told me lead at the breach was undersize/ overhard and lead at the crown was lube . I don't think I've observed a lube star on pistols not as much as I see on rifles anyway . I wonder if you may have had a helper or changed a shell holder , new pins in a press handle or ram ?

I hate having to change everything because a vendor changed a product .

[therealhitman]

A match made in heaven. Thank me later.


http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ued-and-lonely

[243winxb]

Current (Breakfree) Safariland CLP is said to no longer contain teflon. This is the only difference/change. I use CLP to store the guns, then clean barrel with #9 right before i go shooting.

[lar45]

I am sorry to hear about your problems with our lube.
Just to be clear, you were using someone elses 50-50 lube and now switched to ours when the leading started?
As was stated, the old Alox 2138F is no longer made, Alox 350 is the current replacement and needs 6-7%(depending on who you ask) MicroWax to make the equivalent of Alox 2138F.
This is what we use to make our 50-50, BAC and 2500+ lubes.
50-50 is our softest lube and it turns out to be slightly stiffer than Javalina was.
You've got me scratching my head on this one. I would be more than happy to send you any of our other lubes to try if you want. Also I will give you a refund on anything that you want to send back.

[243winxb]

lar45, I was using GAR 50% Beeswax/50% Alox 2138F. I found your new 350 blend of 50/50 to not flow well at 60f degrees. I contacted you, and you said add some mineral oil, but i didnt. Had some Xlox that dried to a grease. Mixed that and poured into the old plastic tubes. I though i could heat it sitting in boiling water, then pour into Lyman 450. It didnt melt, so tossed 9 sticks into trash. Only used 1 stick of your 50/50 blend, without any modifications. Accuracy was ok with 357 & 44 mag., with the 357 leaving the most lead in the barrel. I guess i have to get used to no lube star and a little leading. I think i will end up buying a heater and trying some of your other lubes. Or i can tumble lube the sized and lubed bullets i have now with Xlox. Shame the Alox 2138F is no more. Thank you for your reply.

[cajun shooter]

I think you may want to try the White label BAC lube for your revolver lubes before giving up and feeling like you are at a loss because of the Alox 2138F being gone. I have changed several SASS shooters over to this lube after they see the results this fine lube provides. Just Try It, You Will Like It!! Good Shooting, David

[243winxb]

Looks like 2 votes for BAC, and will work without a heater?

[tg32-20]

Another + for BAC! If you want it softer, just use any one of runfiverun's suggestions.

[BrassFinger]

I use BAC in my old Lyman 450 for .45ACP as well as .30-06 with excellent results. I don't need to heat it but the basement does get a bit chilly in winter (55F) so I'll warm up the 450 with a small heater or heat lamp for a little bit to just make the job easier. It stays warm enough to lube a sizable quantity of boolits without reheating. I really like the BAC - it's just soft enough without being messy and it smells good. It does the job for me!

Chris

[GabbyM]

I don't think your leading is lube related.
Your bullets are undersized. Either starting out that way or being crushed in the case which is common.

[chuckbuster]

BAC and a Hair Dryer or heat gun to get the 4500 warm to the touch when I start. Good for a couple hundred bullets before I reheat and the basement is CHILLY. .41MAg and .480Ruger mild to wild all happy.
Lars is great to work with

Kevin

[GabbyM]

BAC and a Hair Dryer or heat gun to get the 4500 warm to the touch when I start. Good for a couple hundred bullets before I reheat and the basement is CHILLY. .41MAg and .480Ruger mild to wild all happy.
Lars is great to work with

Kevin

As if the OP would be the first person in history to have a leading of throat that can be blamed upon 50/50 lube. Seriously that lube has been used since way before I was born and I'm sixty.
OP has a bullet crush issue. Lube he is using is not a variable. It works so just discount that.