Cogno, Ergo, Boom
If you're gonna be stupid, don't pull up short. Saddle up and ride it all the way in.
Nice, the through hole is a little larger than I would drill though. Next time, silicone caulk or high temp RTV does the job.
”We know they are lying, they know they are lying, they know we know they are lying, we know they know we know they are lying, yet they are still lying.” –Aleksandr Isayevich Solzhenitsyn
My Straight Shooters thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raight-shooter
The Pewter Pictures and Hallmarks thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-and-hallmarks
I must have at least 20 sets of Lee and Lyman that are held on by JB-Weld. Never had one come off after a good application of that stuff. I just slide the loose wood handles off, shove some of the mixed product down in the holes with a popsicle stick, shove the handles back on. The next day I'm ready to go at it wide open with no worries.
KE4GWE - - - - - - Colt 1860, it just feels right.
I tried various silicones, must not have found the right one.
Now JB Weld, never thought of that.
Cogno, Ergo, Boom
If you're gonna be stupid, don't pull up short. Saddle up and ride it all the way in.
I use my bedding epoxy, works great. Kind of the same effect as JB weld but I always have a little left over from bedding rifles so can use that to stick the handles on.
-Nobade
I got the high heat RTV from work, it was "expired" but works just fine. I heard people use brass and I thought that would look nice!
Using Tapatalk
Every set of Lee and Lyman mold handles I have used eventually came loose. Rather than wait for failure I drill through the ferrule and handle and install a small brass nail and then peen both ends. Tried J-B and other products and sooner or later they failed (probably did it wrong), and prefer a mechanical versus adhesive joint.
JB is like duct-tape............the universal "fixer-upper"! NOT the fast stuff! The standard slow set stuff. I even machine it, drill it, cut threads in it, mill it.......etc. Good stuff.....as long as you use the s-l-o-w stuff.
1/8" drive pins work great in loose handles. At least you can take them apart if ever needed.
Use the good old fashioned slow curing J-B Weld, the original cold weld formula, the stuff you can fix engine blocks with, it cures and stands up to heat better than the any 5-minute setting epoxy stuff .
Gary
I'm old fashioned in fixing them, I used a small finishing nail with a snugly drilled hole then bent it over, point away from me.
Did the exact same thing with my LEE ingot molds
I used epoxy years ago and they are still tight.
Brownells bedding compound has lasted for over a year now.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |