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Thread: PSA: Use anti-seize on mold handle set screws.

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    PSA: Use anti-seize on mold handle set screws.

    So I'm still pretty new to casting. I have a RCBS 45-200-SWC mold with RCBS handles that I've been using to cast for bullseye shooting, probably cast about 3000 with this mold so far. Just got my new Magma 45-180-SWC-BB mold drilled for the RCBS handles which I intended to use my existing handles. I got the first set screw out with some resistance but the second was being a bear, it started twisting my cheapo folding set of allen wrenches.

    So I sprayed the set screw down with some PB blaster to try and loosen up the set screw, I broke out the Bonhus US made wrenches which will take a beating. I still couldn't get it to budge and was at risk of damaging the wrench. So then I heated the mold on my natural gas burner for 10 minutes and the screw STILL wouldn't budge, at this point I damaged the allen wrench, good thing Bondus replaces them free of charge.

    Now I'm stuck leaving the handles on the 200 grain mold and buying another $40 set for my new mold. It was either that or start drilling on the mold then trying to re-tap it with a larger size with possibly bad results.

    Long story short I'm going to be putting some of my choke tube anti-seize lube on my set screws on the new mold.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master


    Walter Laich's Avatar
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    others will jump in but a few quick thoughts:

    soak in Koil for a few days.
    Strike the bolt a few times on the top to see if you can break the bolt free
    some folks tighten a bit to break bolts free--not sure about this one, though

    finally email RCBS and get their take on this. Might have to send it back for them to work on.

    in any event good luck and keep us informed
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  3. #3
    In Remembrance


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    If the mold/screw are original RCBS stock, I believe they will take it in for warranty work. Remember RCBS has a lifetime warranty on their products. I put choke tube anti-seize on the handle screws after I thoroughly degrease the screws as they come new in the mold. The question comes to mind about how tight you originally put the screws in with, `farmer tight` or `snug tight` pressure?Robert

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
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    Well honestly I don't remember how tight I went but doubt I cranked the **** out of it. I did try to tighten it to break it free with no luck. I think the set screw is slightly damaged now which complicates things. I may opt to send it in for warranty work at some point but I've already ordered a new set of handles for the Magma mold. Its definitely gonna be getting choke tube lube.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

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    This is a common problem with RCBS molds and probably my only complaint with them. I have a few that have this problem. A little anti-seize should cure future problems. I would not go to the trouble of sending them back, just buy another set of handles (yeah, I know, $40).

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    I use copper or silver anti-seize for all my mold screws. A little goes a long way. I use a toothpick to get it in the right spot and run the screw in and out to check coverage. Emulsifier cooks off in the first few minutes and lasts a long time. Great stuff.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    I worked for a major jet engine manufacturer and believe it or not we used Milk of Magnesia for an anti seize compound. Don't laugh it worked and you can find it most anywhere and cheaper than anti seize compound.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
    Dragonheart's Avatar
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    If the Kroil Oil won't loosen it then nothing will.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy Nocturnal Stumblebutt's Avatar
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    I use a dab of 2 stroke oil on the handle screws, I already have it on my casting bench for living the sprue plate and it works very well at preventing the screws from sticking

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Dragonheart's Avatar
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    I have been using the NOE mold lube on the screws, seems to keep them free.

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I would recomend a soak for a few days with kroil if you have it then a little heat and attempt again to lossen it. another thing to try is to cut a straight section of allen wrench fron a cheap one and set into allen screw and tap lightly with a hammer this vibrates and helps to lossen screw. If theres kroil oil in with it it will help work it into the threads also. Another trick if you know thread size and pitch is to carefully run a bottoming tap in to the screw, this removs any damaged threads behing the screw so you only have to fight the length of the screw not the hole hole. Otherwise buy another set of handles and leave it alone. It can be drilled out and retapped but allen head set screws are hardened and can be a bear to drill and tap out.

  12. #12
    Boolit Man
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    I was going to suggest heating the mold back up to operating temperature & try to loosen the screws. My thought was that they came loose while casting & you tightened them on a hot mold. As it cooled things contracted & now they are tighter than you want. Heat it again & give it a try. Dab some 2-stroke oil on the screws before you heat it & the heat will wick the oil into the threads.

  13. #13
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by DocSavage View Post
    I worked for a major jet engine manufacturer and believe it or not we used Milk of Magnesia for an anti seize compound. Don't laugh it worked and you can find it most anywhere and cheaper than anti seize compound.
    We used it in the Air Force on small gas turbines as well. Temps easily over a thousand degrees with never a problem

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check