30-30 paper patch newbie

[tenx]

i swage 22 cal from rimfire with corbins csp-1 press and dies, swage .185 lead wire thru shelby tubing in an arbor press, have cast a zillion boolits mainly for pistol, swage 200 gr 35 cal from 9mm brass for 35 rem so i have some reloading/boolit making background but i am looking for set-up to make 30 cal (mainly for the 30-30 and later on for the 308) boolits to shoot at full power without spending much money. i know i can cast and have several 30 cal molds but right now paper patching appeals more to me than casting. i'm thinking that what works for 30-30 can be applied to 308 and 30-06 as well later on. what commonly available molds for paper patching cores are out there and what seems to be working better for most of you guys? i don't want to re-invent the wheel, just be able to shoot full power loads with good accuracy without spending the bucks for jacketed boolits and breaking the bank....................thanks

[barrabruce]

A loverin design of 150 or 170 gr works well when sized down to bore.
Its all to do with all the lube groves.

They finally came up with the 2 lyman pp bullet moulds here on castboolits but haven't used them.
CBE in oz makes a 150 and 170 flat nose mould as well at 0.301".
Depends if you want to shoot paper or critters.

I have gotten better accuracy with plain base and gc boolits than paper patch ..but can't get any where near the velocity with softer alloys.

I haven't shot anything with them as of yet but have great expectations for them to preform as I expect them too.

I only get an average of 1 1/2" or a bit better at 100 yrds with my gun but have nearly gotten the magic 1" on occasions.

I only patch cos I can and don't need no special alloys / lubes n such.

I figure I'm too cheap and lazy to even neck size my cases and seat the pp bullet by hand.

Hell I can use a nail in a bit of dowel to deprime a case and with out the nail to prime it.
A case cut off at the right point to use a a measure and bobs yer uncle.

A proper sizing die to you rifles bore is a biggest bonus and scales to weigh chargers while building up loads do help as well as all the other shed full of gear you have collected over the years.

If you can seat the nose in the rifling and the **** still in the case neck you should be just about there.

Read the stickies nothing has changed far as I can tell.

Iv'e done a lot with a 30-30 single shot so you can read my threads if you wanna bore yourself to tears or learn what not to do.

Lastest fad of mine is to seat the bullet with only a few grooves covered like a gas check and seat in mouth of case.
Think all bore ride with enough paper to keep a seal.
Shoots cool in my bore as there is little to no friction. didn't shoot groups but a few sighters at 50 yrds then guesstimated drop to 300 yrds then walked them into the gong.Seemed to slap the gong with authority /consistantly and with good speed.
I woulda went down to check things out but it was wet late and me back and legs were shot by then.

Barra

[barrabruce]

Now if you wanna swage sumtin then probably a core of bore plus 1 thou.
patch to a thou or 2 over groove and swage the base flat and the rest to suit the throat dimensions of your gun.
Light smear of lube and seat so you have a light but firm neck tension on your cases.
Seat to light engraving.
You cases should be only prepped to full length of chamber neck.
Start with l slow powder and start j word loads and work up to 100% load density plus slight compression.

I will add that I like a small tuft of dacron wad in case I eject a round with out shooting and it stops the powder spilling out everywhere.
A length of brass rod or cleaning rod will make short work to eject the bullet.

Then a gain breach seating may prove the most accurate way to fly if you really wanna get into it.

good luck.