Another Use for 22lr Cases

[R.Ph. 380]

Just reload'em. OK who's gonna' be the first to buy one?

http://sharpshooter-22lr-reloader.my...2-reloader-kit

Bill



They've even got the primer cmpd available: http://sharpshooter-22lr-reloader.my...iming-compound

How about a resizer die?: http://sharpshooter-22lr-reloader.my...m/products/die

[BT Sniper]

Looks fun actually.

Also looks time consuming but what isn't when it comes to reloading.

[R.Ph. 380]

I tell you what might be worthwhile. Buying that primer compound to re load primers. They can be cleaned en mass with SS tumbling, That will do a lot to separate anvil and cup. Then reshape the base, just takes a flat punch of the right diameter and fill with damp compound, insert anvil and let dry. Might be an option in primer shortages. Save your spent primers boys, there may be a market fer'em.

Bill

[andyt53]

I tell you what might be worthwhile. Buying that primer compound to re load primers. They can be cleaned en mass with SS tumbling, That will do a lot to separate anvil and cup. Then reshape the base, just takes a flat punch of the right diameter and fill with damp compound, insert anvil and let dry. Might be an option in primer shortages. Save your spent primers boys, there may be a market fer'em.

Bill

I didn't even think of that. I may just order a few primer compound packages. I'm well stocked on spent primers.

[aaronraad]

They've even got the primer cmpd available: http://sharpshooter-22lr-reloader.my...iming-compound

Um...just WOW

I can see the kids now trying to recreate scenes from S1E6 of Breaking Bad after they get bored playing with Tannerite.

[R.Ph. 380]

I didn't even think of that. I may just order a few primer compound packages. I'm well stocked on spent primers.

Same here. You know, you've got as many spent primers as you have used brass.

[xacex]

There was a member here that tried it, and did a write up on it. The mold was garbage, and I don't know if he ever got the kit to work. I think it was in the rim fire section.

[Dryball]

Heck, I think the primer kit may be the answer for making caps for BP guns. It'd be nice to know what's in the compound though.

[rolltide]

I just got my kit today. I haven't tried it out yet, but the bullet mold does not seem overly precise. I am entirely new to casting, so it may well be typical for casting molds. There are instructions with the kit for using match heads and other things as primer and propellant, as well as how to use scoops provided with BP and a few fast burning shotgun/pistol powders. The primer compound package contains 4 different substances and precise instructions on quantities of each substance to use in the final mixture. The process seems to be mix the 4 powdered components together in very small amounts, mix the powders well, put the powder in a primer cup or rimfire case, add a drop of alcohol or something similar, then pack it in place and let dry.

All seems simple enough. All in all I am pleased with the purchase and think it is well worth the money as a little addition to a bug out bag or wilderness survival kit in case 22 ammo becomes entirely unavailable. It would also be a good option for creating really low power 22 rounds for target practice with an indoor bullet trap, without having to use up your factory ammo.

[rolltide]

My only concern with this kit is that the primer mix looks to be potassium chlorate mixtre (just guessing sine nothing is labled). This means it could be a potentially corrosive primer leaving potassium chloride, a sodium free salt substitute, residue in the gun. Cleaning modern weapons with hot soapy water is a real pain.

[oldred]

There are instructions with the kit for using match heads

That was discussed at length in another thread and while using match heads seems to be one of their big sales pitches it's just that, a sales pitch because you can not get suitable matches anymore! Government regulations have gotten what passes for strike anywhere matches to the point that they are totally useless for this purpose, there is not enough of the ignition compound on those match heads to even reliably light the match never mind getting enough to use for primers! Some guys insisted that yes you can get them but I guarantee they have never tried them and don't know what they are talking about, I have tried them and they are indeed useless! Sure you can find what is called strike anywhere matches these days BUT they are only a vague shadow of what they once were and terribly expensive to boot. The point is before you waste time and money trying to buy strike anywhere matches be warned, they are NOT what they once were, they do not have enough ignition compound on the tip to make a primer with and it would take several matches for each primer and that's IF you could even get any material off the tip in the first place! The problem is that not only is the usable material present in so tiny an amount as to be almost unusable but the manufacturers color the tip to make it LOOK as if there is as much ignition material on those tips as there once was in bygone times, because of this false coloring it's impossible to determine where the usable ignition part stops and unusable part starts so you can't properly separate it. Besides at the $5 or so a box for the matches they are way to expensive to use for this anyway!

The bottom line is that the strike anywhere match claim is just a BS sales pich because you simply can't get the right ones anymore, the ones you find on the internet are called strike anywhere but they won't work!

[footpetaljones]

@rolltide

I'd bet money on it being a variation of FA48, which in addition for potassium chlorate, contains sulfur, antimony sulfide, and ground glass. I don't know of any other priming compounds that use four components. Also, from their picture, one of the components is yellow, strongly indicating sulfur.


Personally, I'd skip this kit entirely if I wanted to reload rimfire cartridges. A user on this forum has successfully used 225438 bullets in black powder 22LR reloads, and I'd think any 22 bullet with a gas check shank would work. Several members have made noncorrosive priming compounds drawing from the "Eley Prime" process that are simple to make. CH4D makes a set of 22LR dies that would work much better and faster than a hand tool. The bottleneck in the process would be priming the cartridges.

[Mytmousemalibu]

On the whole match head debacle, you can use strike anywhere match heads, the very tip that is, to make priming compound or reconstitute used primers. I tried just out of shear curiosity. As mentioned, the matches of today are almost worthless. I doubt you'll find anything is stores that's even close to decent. The best I have seen that perhaps are almost as good as the ones from a bygone era are the UCO brand. I got them off Amazon. They have a fair amount of the sensitized compound of them and seem plenty hot. You can still get the older blue box Diamond brand SAM's online too but not nearly as good as UCO's. The new Greenlight Diamond's SUCK, don't waste your money, not even good as a match. Keep in mind all these match compounds are highly corrosive. I tried it for proof of concept and also to keep stashed away if the poo gets really deep. In that case, you can grind up the rest of the match compound for emergency gun powder. All that aside, it takes a ton of time and energy to harvest match powders and the corrosive nature is less than desirable. You also need to be careful harvesting the tips, easy to ignite by accident.

[rolltide]

@rolltide

I'd bet money on it being a variation of FA48, which in addition for potassium chlorate, contains sulfur, antimony sulfide, and ground glass. I don't know of any other priming compounds that use four components. Also, from their picture, one of the components is yellow, strongly indicating sulfur.


Personally, I'd skip this kit entirely if I wanted to reload rimfire cartridges. A user on this forum has successfully used 225438 bullets in black powder 22LR reloads, and I'd think any 22 bullet with a gas check shank would work. Several members have made noncorrosive priming compounds drawing from the "Eley Prime" process that are simple to make. CH4D makes a set of 22LR dies that would work much better and faster than a hand tool. The bottleneck in the process would be priming the cartridges.

I think you are absolutely correct about the contents of the primer kit. BP is dirty and hygroscopic like the corrosive priming compound. BP is not a good solution for my except in the gravest extreme of having no other choice. I would like to learn more about the "Eley Prime" process. I read thorugh some threads here about it, but there seems to be a lot of extraneous info about things that do not work. Can you direct me somewhere that sort of "cuts to the chase" and describes the process for non-corrosive priming?

Thanks,

Rolltide

[muzzleblastm38]

can you reload with smoke less powder and match for priming

[rolltide]

If I understand correctly, the match heads are corrosive, so if you are going to use them, you might as well use the chlorate powder formula which is much less labor intensive, convenient, and really cheap. If you are going to use match heads or chlorate, you might as well use black powder as well since you will be washing down the gun with hot soapy water anyway after every use. I would like to find a non-corrosive primer system and use smokeless powder, but the non-corrosive priming seems to involve lead styphnate, which seems highly unstable and explosive even in small batches, or red phosphorous which is regulated either because it is used in some drugs or because it is dangerous or something, I'm not sure which. Anyway, it seems unavailable for hobby use. It does not appear there is a simple way to make non corrosive primers with readily available ingredients.

[footpetaljones]

Rolltide,

There is a thread stickied in the Special Projects section titled "can you make priming compound?" that details methods of making noncorrosive priming compound without lead styphnate.