Mauser, Adjustable Trigger Modification

[LAGS]

Here is an Adjustable , Roller Ball trigger modification that I do on a lot of my Mausers.
It is made from a stock Mauser trigger , that can be found for a song, if you choose not to modify the one that came with your rifle.
Basicly you cut a notch in the top of the trigger where the two stage humps are, and use a 1/4" ball bearing for the single hump.
The sear is modified by filing two notches or slots vertically the width of the ball bearing , and they act as a guide as the trigger is pulled.
The front of the trigger has a peice of steel welded to it to extend it forward, and make room to drill and tap it for a 6/32 set screw and install a lock nut.
This is the trigger Adjustment screw.
The Sear has a hole drilled up thru it and a 6/32 screw runs up thru the return spring with a lock nut on the bottom.
This is the Overtravel set screw
No modification to the rifle is needed, and if you make the adjustable out of a spare trigger, the rifle can be returned to original in two minutes.

[LAGS]

This is the rifle it is on.
It is a Turkish 98 with the small ring baarrel in 8mm.
Bore is good but .326 diameter but shoots cast really well.
I did all the work myself from the bolt handle ,drilling it for the scope , cutting and crowning the barrel, adding the rifle sights, to sculpting the trigger guard and adding an extended magazine release.
The bluing was done at home too, in a Bead Blasted Slow Rust Blue and the stock is the original that is reshaped , modified and glass bedded with a Maple nose cap added along with a recoil pad.

[Buck Neck It]

Thanks! I have to try one of these.

[Hannibal]

I've been looking for instructions for just such a modification. Perfect timing. Thanks!

[LAGS]

Dont forget to make sure the adjuster screws, clear the back of the magazine box, and the bottom of the trigger well in the stock.
Sometimes I have to file a small bevel on the back of the magazine box on the part that holds the magazine catch spring. and drill a hole to clear the adjuster nut and screw in the stock but not all the way thru the stock.
I will try to get a picture onf one if I have one of my rifles with it.

[LAGS]

This is another one of my Mausers with the Roller Ball trigger.
You can see the bevel on the back of the magazine box spring housing had to be modified just slightly to clead the overtravel nut and screw

[M-Tecs]

Thanks for posting. Learned something today.

[LAGS]

Is anybody interested in converting a Mauser Floorplate to a Hinged Floorplate.
I do those too.

[Blackwater]

Great work, Lags, and thanks for the pics! THIS is the kind of work and ingenuity that I've really come to admire.

[LAGS]

Back when I was younger, and did not have a lot of money to buy aftermarket parts, or did not want to dump that kind of money into a Military Sporter, I had to make all my own parts or modify them to fit my needs.
I would do the bolt handles, trigger guards, the adjustable triggers, the Low Scope safety, the hinged floorplates, and all the other Parts you would want on a custom rifle.
My rifles were a far cry from the Average Bubba'ed rifles I saw at the range.

This is just a few of the sporters.
The custom ones are way better.

[Hannibal]

If you don't mind sharing, what's your low scope safety technique? I find myself needing to fix this issue as well.

[LAGS]

I will do a post when I can get the time.
But I take the Original safety , ( or a surplus replacement )
And file , grind and modify it to be a two position that will be over on the right side of the bolt Sleeve

[Hannibal]

I'm looking forward to it. Thank you!

[LAGS]

OK
then here is just a preview
All of these were made out of the Original Mauser Safeties.
I will have to find time to do a pictorial of the modification.
Some require no welding.

[LAGS]

A lot of people call themselves Gunsmiths, because they can install aftermarket replacement parts like safety's and triggers.
A true Gunsmith is one who can Make or modify the parts needed, and fit them for proper functioning.
I have no fancy shop, or a bunch of Machines to rework the parts.
No Lathe, No mill. just a drill press, grinder , Dremmel tool and 12" sander.
90% of my work is done by hand, with files and a gas welder if needed.
Time, patients and aquired skills are all that is needed if you have the desire to get something you need done.

LAGS - Larry A " Gun " Smith

[Clark]

Over the years, I have given up on home brew Mauser mods for take up, force, and overtravel. Now I just buy triggers. I made a drawing of one two days ago.

But the low safety made from the original... I have been thinking about that.
Just thinking. My TIG welding is terrible.
But I know someone who is better than me at TIG welding.

[LAGS]

None of those Safeties were Tig Welded.
If they were welded at all, they were welded with a Porta Torch Oyx Aceteline set up I bought at Home Depot.
BTW, I taught myself how to gas weld since I didnt have time to take any classes or knew anyone who could weld.
My welding is nothing to write home about, but it gets the job done.
I also used the same torch to Weld the Bolt Handles on those rifles.

[Clark]

Lags, could you explain more about the Mauser safety modifications?

[LAGS]

@ clark.
I would love to do a Full Tutorial on the site, about the Safety, Trigger and the Hinged Floorplate, but I am having problems posting pictures all the time.
But if you PM me your Email, I can help you on a one to one basis when i get time.
I am currently helping " Hannibal " on modifying a trigger and safety for his rifle in that manor.
You might also PM him and ask how it is going.

[joatmon]

LAGS I sure hope you get the pic posting fixed, I'd love to see the safety, trigger and hinged floorplate mods.
Aaron