Acraglas release agent?

[Char-Gar]

I recall reading that paste wax makes a decent release agent..true or false.

[pietro]

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Paste wax has long been the Gold Standard of release agents - I've been using it for bedding jobs since the mid-70's, w/o any issues.



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[BK7saum]

Also, the paste wax film will be a little thinner than the acraglas release agent for those that want the tightest bedding. I've used paste wax on the action and action screws of several bedding jobs.

Brad

[Mk42gunner]

True.

It has been a few years since I last bedded a rifle, but I always thought that two or three buffed coats of Johnsons Paste wax did a better job than anything else I tried, from the blue stuff Brownell's sells (works but is a pain to remove all of the blue film) to Pam cooking spray (better than nothing if you don't mind oil dents all over).

Robert

[fouronesix]

Been using JPW exclusively for a long time for all epoxy/glass bedding jobs. I think any basic paste wax such as auto wax, Renaissance wax, Kiwi shoe polish, etc. will work fine.

[Frank46]

Have used Johnson's paste wax especially for the action screws and the threads. Works good. Frank

[Gofaaast]

Kiwi shoe polish is what I have always used and had good results.

[Mytmousemalibu]

Been using Kiwi clear shoe polish with perfect results.

[koger]

I use turtle wax, past wax, wipe on, let dry, then spray with Pam or Brownell's Mold release, which is silicone spray. Do a lot of bedding jobs, none stuck so far, excellent results.

[country gent]

Test the release agent to be used with the bedding agent by trying to glue a couple pieces of scrap metal together. If it releases it should be good to go. Also make sure all places for a mecanical lock are filled with clay or play dough.

[LAGS]

JPW is my Go To Choice Hands down.
I had one barrel stick with Pam Cooking Spray, and wont go back using it for that reason.
It stuck in tiny spots like there were air bubbles when the Pam was Sprayed on.
Probably My fault , but why take chances.
Hand applies assures the better coverage, and more evenly than any Spray, as sprays build up in corners.
Then you dont want to touch it , for fear you could be rubbing off other areas.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

Does anybody think the gunsmiths' special products are better? Not me.

[pietro]

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FWIW, I've never buffed the paste wax release agent, since IMO it's counter-intuitive ( buffing can result in naked areas); and pray tell us - exactly how are the tight corners in the inletting buffed ?


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[LAGS]

Heck when I first started off, and I didn't know what I was doing, I would rub the metal parts with a Block of Parifin Wax and then warm up the parts with a hair dryer to let it melt evenly and smooth out. Sort of like the way I waxed my Surfboard or Snow Skis.
I was a Kid, What did I know.
But it worked Great.
I still use the same method in construction, when I have to Epoxy a Threadded Rod into concrete and want the threadded rod to be removable in the future out of the concrete. It will screw right out with a Double jam nut and a wrench.

[Larry Gibson]

I've used Lee's liquid alox for years as a release agent. Works extremely well with every bedding compound, including Accra-Glass, that I've used it with. A light coat, easy to apply (I use Q-tips and a small brush), let dry and it cleans up with normal gun solvents, brake/carburetor and engine cleaners.

Larry Gibson

[plainsman456]

Pam or other spray release agents for baking will work also.

[Blackwater]

I will NOT use the little blue "release agent" that comes with Accraglass. The only stock I ever glued in was for a good friend's rifle, and I used the kit stuff. What that does, is form a very think "skin" over the metal that keeps it from sticking IF (and HERE is where the problem comes in!) it doesn't tear as you place the barrreled action or whatever in the stock. If that thin skin tears, it exposes the bare metal, and you get a glue-in. Stuck. BAD, too! I finally got the gun apart with a rubber mallet on the barrel after trying the freezing trick 3 times, and everything else I could think of, including warming the metal with a hair dryer for quite a while. Nothing worked until I got the big rubber hammer out. And it cracked his stock in the process. I fixed it so you couldn't really see it unless you looked VERY closely, and even then it wasn't very clear, but it was "ruined" in his mind, and he sold it off and got another one anyway.

JPW and shoe polish both worked, and I've used them with total satisfaction. I REALLY prep the metal with it before glassing. One glue-in is ENOUGH for me! And I'll NEVER use that factory "release agent" again! And yes, I was, in fact, gentle when I lowered the barreled action into the stock, and it still tore somehow. After getting them separated, I found a little spot about like a match stem and about 5/8" long had torn, and had stuck it in THAT badly! That Accragless is GOOD stuff!

[Akheloce]

Hornady one shot case lube worked fine for me- just let the solvents evaporate off (just like when using it to lube cases) before installing the barrel/action in the glass.

[Char-Gar]

Thanks guys... I used JPW and things are now sitting up to harden. I am rehabbing set of revolver grips and one of the pin holes had wallowed out, allowing one side to slip. So, I got out the Acraglas and found the release agent had dried up. The glas was still good, so I mixed a little and filled the hole to take out the slop. About noon tomorrow I will pop it open and take a look.

[LAGS]

@ Char-Gar
For small fixes like that, the regular 5 minute epoxy works just fine and you dont have to wait overnight.
It too will take the coloring agent if you need it to match, but the agent slows the drying to about 15 minutes before you can take it apart.