Miroku 94 38/55

[T-Bird]

That's good to hear, thanks rbertalotto

[JHeath]

I found a beautiful 1978 (forged parts) Winchester 94 in 30-30 with great wood and perfect condition for $200. Sent it to Jes with a check for $225 for a rebore to 38-55....Had it back in nine days and it shoots beautifully! For $525 I don't know how you could buy a nicer rifle in that caliber.

I am unlearned about forged-parts '79 Winchesters. Can you conveniently point me to a reference or give a quick explanation? I googled and saw a reference to '82 and later being forged receivers. Not contesting, just trying to get up to speed . . .

[Buckshot]

..............The 30-30 Is fine, and using an old 1893 Marlin action and a NOS 20" 36-CS bbl I built myself a rendition of a Marlin "Lite-Weight':



It's a fine little rifle .....................



But to me, there's just something extra special about the 38-55 cartridge!



Looks just like a bunch of baby 45-90's to me!

....................Buckshot

[rbertalotto]

Don't take this as gospel as I've not done enough research. We all know post 64 Winchester model 94 rifles were looked upon as inferior to pre-64 versions. Mostly because of stamped parts and the alloy receivers. I have a post 64 made in 1966. When I bought the rifle to convert to 38-55, I realized the internal parts were different from the 1966. The internet offered that Winchester went back to machined / forged parts for the internals after 1978. My rifle's serial number shows it to be late 1978.

Not sure where any of this info lays, but I can tell you there is a world of difference between my 1966 rifle and this 1978 rifle. The receiver of both appear to be the same, alloy plated with steel and then blued and slight pitting where someone carried by the receiver with bare hands.

The 1978 is much smoother operating and the fit and finish is 1000 times better than the older rifle.

[458mag]

I think the 375 win brass is slightly longer than the 38-55 brass and the later can be used in the 375. Not sure if it is the other way around.

[rking22]

375 Win brass is shortest at 2.020,
then the "modern" 38-55 at 2.085,
then longest the original 38-55 at 2.125

Some 375 big bores (maybe most?) have a very long chamber allowing them to accept the 2.085 and mine will almost accept the 2.125 38-55. My chamber will accept a .400 dia plug gage to 2.110 depth! That does NOT mean that anyone should shoot 38-55 loads in 375 Win firearms. But I think Win "protected" the BB 375s for that possiability. Marlin may have also ????

[rbertalotto]

Isn't it strange that you can fit the much more powerful 375 in the weaker black powder rifles chamber?

[TXGunNut]

I intend to use this gun at original BP velocity of about 1350 fps but with smokeless. Want to try softish boolits to hunt with and COWW +2% for paper. I was thinking something about 8-9 BHN(like 30-1) and a slower pwdr like 3031 for the soft boolits. Does this sound feasible? Shoot Straight, T-Bird

Sounds like an excellent plan. I use 50/50 alloy sweetened up a bit with tin over 3031. Haven't quite gotten it worked out but I think once some mechanical issues are resolved this will be an excellent load.

[TXGunNut]

But to me, there's just something extra special about the 38-55 cartridge!



-Buckshot


Couldn't agree more. Good to see you, Buckshot!

[rking22]

Isn't it strange that you can fit the much more powerful 375 in the weaker black powder rifles chamber?

Agreed, probably gave their counsel a heart attack. Or they assumed either those (few) with 38-55s knew better OR whould not think of it. Bad plan either way in today's world! Seriously doubt the freebore and slightly undersized bullet would permit regular use in the vintage 38-55s with out damage.

The post 64 94s used an investment cast 4100 series chrome-molly steel, trusting my memory(and sometimes I don't). The alloy content of the steel is what caused the reblues to be purple. Once everyone figured out what the proper bluing salts to use we saw fewer purple 94s (thankfully). I saw one today in a little gunshop near home, still wanted 350$ for it! The stamped parts in the early post 64s got replaced in late 70s with better quality components, suspect these were also investment castings. No problem there, Ruger has always used investment castings and they have some of the toughest guns out there, TC also.

TxGunNut,,, thats is some awful purtty loads!

[cabezaverde]

When sending a rifle to Jessie for a rebore, do you send the whole rifle or just the barreled action?

[T-Bird]

I took my gun to the LGS (sans scope) paid them to ship it. When I talked to JES that's what they told me to do. I asked if I should remove the stock, they said no. Shoot Straight, T-Bird

[TXGunNut]

TxGunNut,,, thats is some awful purtty loads! -rking22

Agreed, but those are Buckshot's loads. My loads generally come out purty too but I'm not near as good with a camera as he is.

[TXGunNut]

When sending a rifle to Jessie for a rebore, do you send the whole rifle or just the barreled action?

Best bet is whole rifle, he will test fire it after re-boring.

[T-Bird]

This thread wound up being a JES thread rather than Miroku- that's OK. Shoot Straight, T-Bird

[T-Bird]

Still waiting on my prodigal gun (get it). In the interim, I have loaded 18.5gr, 20gr, 21gr, 22gr, 24gr of IMR 4198 under the Lee 359-250 with a pinch of dacron.I also loaded 18gr 5744 also with a pinch of Dacron. I loaded 4 rounds of each. The good ones will get reloaded. Any more suggestions for loads in the 1350-1400fps range? Shoot straight, T-Bird

[TXGunNut]

This thread wound up being a JES thread rather than Miroku- that's OK. Shoot Straight, T-Bird

Classic thread drift, sorry for my part in it. The Miroku is a worthy subject but quite honestly they leave me cold. Awesome fit & finish but....I'll leave it at that. The JES option is indeed a good one to consider even if
that wasn't where you were headed.

[T-Bird]

I'll start a more appropriately titled thread when the shootin' starts. Shoot straight, T-Bird

[northmn]

Went through this discussion on the Marlin forum as I have a 38-55 Marlin Cowboy. I have used both Starline brass and Winchester brass in mine and both work. Some like to get the longer Starline and trim it to fit the chamber at about 2.11 instead of the 2.085. For general purpose use the shorter brass works. I use the Lee mold and it drops the 50/50 WW/lead at about 259 grains. When I want to drive it a bit faster than the alloy permits, I use a cork wad I punched out of gasket material and shotgun buffer to make a compressed load. This works very similar to a gas check but make sure the load is compressed or you might get barrel damage.
I chronographed 4198 and was very surprised at the velocities. I tried 23 or 24 grains and got over 1600 fps. Settled on 22 grains and may cut back yet. Most prefer not to compete with the 375 and keep the 38-55 loaded down a bit. 14-1500 fps. A favorite load for many is about 9-10 grains of Unique. Jacketed bullets are hard to get and very spendy.

DP

[T-Bird]

I've tried to estimate velocities that I will get from the 4198 loads that I assembled, but it's hard because everyone seems to get such different results. I understand bbl length etc. variables, but the newest Lyman cast boolit book (I think) lists the 249gr pb at 1400ish fps from a 30 in bbl. My gun is 20 in. I may have loaded a bunch of loads hotter than I want.