RotoMetals2WidenersRepackboxLoad Data
Reloading EverythingInline FabricationMidSouth Shooters SupplyLee Precision
Snyders Jerky Titan Reloading
Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 41 to 45 of 45

Thread: All around best product for gun care?

  1. #41
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Spokane, Wa.
    Posts
    2,636

    Cleaning and protecting

    For all gunpowder residue and minor lead fouling, I use Ed's Red. For protection on my blued guns I use a small rag, kept in an old medicine bottle, that has been impregnated with R.I.G.(Rust Inhibiting Grease). I still have the original tube that was given to me over 40 years ago. A little goes a long ways!
    It's all chicken, even the beak!

  2. #42
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    sw pa
    Posts
    899
    the best product that I've found for a rust preventative is boshield t-9. I've tested this product and others on bare steel old rifle bbls. leaving the bbl. outside for a week or more in summer humidity.(a real test). I've got a couple newer products to try and will update. by the way breakfree and ballistol failed big time

    porthos

  3. #43
    Boolit Master oscarflytyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    778
    Eez-Ox

  4. #44
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Central Virginia
    Posts
    7,439
    WOW, one of those, "what's the best gun oil" threads

    Well staying with the first post and seeking the one gun care product I have to go with Clenzoil.

    Everyone has their own favorite gun oil / grease / snake oil / witch doctor approved secret gun care product. I use a lot of different products for different applications but if I had to pick one it would be Clenzoil with regular old ATF Dexton II as a real close second.

    I still like RIG for long term storage of things I can't afford to have rust on. I still use Hoppes #9 and Kroil.....a lot !
    I like Lubriplate for loads that involve sliding friction (slide rails, bolt carriers and the such) and Ballistol is on the shelf.

    I went through the Breakfree stage when I was told to use Breakfree CLP for everything. I don't regret that but it wasn't what it was all cracked up to be.

    I know people that have used 3 in 1 oil for decades on every gun they own and that actually seems to work for them.

    I'm not a big fan of the super expensive, super exotic, super new wonder products and tend to stick with the old proven products. It has been my experience that the super trendy wonder products are very good at separating people from their money but no better at lubricating and protecting guns than the old oils/greases.
    Last edited by Petrol & Powder; 08-30-2015 at 09:59 PM.

  5. #45
    Moderator


    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Way up in the Cascades
    Posts
    8,172
    Interesting thread. There are lots of opinions and recommendations, and one can't argue with any of them. Certainly some of them must be based on the poster's location in the country and conditions of humidity and moisture. I've mostly lived on the west coast and learned to like Hoppe's No.9 as a bore cleaner, kind of an inherited "like" as that's what my dad used, followed by any of several gun oils. Later, as a surface preservative I used G-96 Gun Treatment almost exclusively and it did a good job. I used their spray can, oil, and wipe down cloths. However, a few years back I moved and before doing so I hosed down a dozen revolvers with G-96, wiped off the excess and stored them in plastic bags in a foot locker. A couple of years ago I was showing off my collection to a friend and found that almost none of the cylinders wouldn't turn as the G-96 had turned into gum. They cleaned up with a toothbrush and some kerosene, but it was a job as I had to remove the sideplates, etc. There was no rust. I decided that I needed something a little lighter and went to Rem Oil, and so far it's proven satisfactory. Something that I haven't seen mentioned in this thread as an external preservative is wax. I have several long guns that I use a carnauba based wax (TreWax brand) to preserve the external surface of both wood and metal. The advantage is that it fills the pores and doesn't evaporate away. One can will last for many years, and I apply it by removing the can lid and just placing my index finger on the wax for a second. The heat of your finger will melt a tiny bit onto your finger, then apply it in small circular motions. Wait a couple of minutes and polish it off with a soft cloth. If moisture gets on the surface it will bead up like raindrops on a freshly waxed car and is easy to blot off. If you decide to try it, TreWax comes in two flavors, clear and a sand tint. Get the clear one. It's not that easy to find anymore because it was developed for hardwood floors which kind of went out of style. Also, a dusty gun is much easier to wipe clean than if it had an oily surface. I'm not recommending it for all applications, but wax has it's place especially in display guns and will certainly benefit most wooden stocks in and out of doors.

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check