sharpening a wad punch

[stubbicatt]

OK. I know someone is eventually going to throw a mackerel at me because I keep asking these questions, but I purchased a wad punch. So far so good. Now, this wad punch is about as dull as a 16 year old second grader.

If it were a knife, I could probably put an edge on it (maybe). But it is round. How does one sort of sharpen this up so that it actually cuts rather than mashes out a wad?

Thanks guys.

(Mackerel ducking commencing... Now!)

[Knarley]

If the punch is edge is rolled over simply remove the burr. A small round file will do a good job on the inside of the edge,( A set of needle files really shine here), on the out side just sharpen as if it were a knife. ( A round one)
After you get an edge put back on it, consider getting some material to use as a base under the wad material that isn't so hard on the punch. Wood works or does a thick chunk of plastic. Your edge will last longer.

Regards,
Knarley

[country gent]

Work slowly with a fine stone or very fine diamond jewlers file around the outside at abot a 25-30* angle ink with a magic marker so you can see the cut is even and complete. A round fine stone helps but work inside of punch crefully as this can change dia of wads. A piece of hard wood puncheing into endgrain really inmproves punchs edge life. You want to maintain a straight surface inside on the punch so wads arent cut bigger than bore causing binding. Angle on outside edge. They can be set up in a lathe but very few run true enough for machine sharpining.

[RonT]

Maybe try burnishing the I.D. with the non-fluted end of a drill bit. Kinda' 'unrolling the roll'. I've done this many times with punches made from non steel tubes; Arrow shafts, cartridge cases....
Cheers,
R

[13Echo]

Burnish the rolled edge as described. chuck the punch in a drill press and carefully hold a stone against the cutting edge at slow speed with plenty of lube. You could also glue some wet or dry paper to a flat stick using various grades to remove any knicks or dings and finish with fine paper or a stone.

Jerry Liles

[stubbicatt]

Thanks guys. Don't know where I would find hard wood around here, but maybe a 2" thick piece of 4x4 or 6x6 would work you think? I'd been using a white plastic cutting board (hardly a board, per se), but after I get this fixed up I've gotta find something a little friendlier.

RonT I'm not sure I follow: non fluted end of drill bit? Like the smooth shank part of the drill bit?

[country gent]

Simply cut a piece of tree trunk about 2 foot long and 12-18" in dia. Think a piece of firewood. oak, maple, hard woods using the end grains work very well. Nice thing is when it get chewed up from the punch on both ends simply cut 1/4-1/2" of the ends and its new again. 2X8 or 10 pine cut 4-6" long and glued together makes a nice block for a bench top also. Again when chewed up just resurface each side and start over. Work the radious of you wad punch into a piece of wood and coat with valve gringing compund or lapping compound makes a good hone for sharpening punch also.

[RonT]

Yes. The non-working end. Also maybe use a chromed (Phillips) screwdriver shank. Anything perceived as harder than the work piece.
Cheers,
R

[rfd]

why i got me a press mounted cornell wad punch.

[bob208]

.just use a stone. then after you get a good edge on it. throw away the hammer. clamp it in a drill press. wrap patching material around a board. turn on press and cut out the patches. no banging and chewing up wood. much faster too.

[Knarley]

I have a chunk of nylon like the stuff from the runners on a snow mobile. Doesn't seem to harm the punch edge. But, the punch will dull from time to time.

GET RID OF THE HAMMER??? Some times I just gotta go down stairs and BEAT on something. Kinda like therapy, and a lot cheaper that slapping someone.

Knarley

[bedbugbilly]

I use Osborn style punches all the time in my leather work, holster making, etc. Sizes from very small up to 2 1/2". Of course I use a rubber punch pad underneath to help reserve the edge. Anyway . . you want to preserve the I.D. of the punch so don't be sharpening the inside. I carefully sharpen mine by rotating by hand on a disc sander to carefully retain the outside bevel. I then take a dremel tool with a buffing wheel - apply a little red rouge polishing compound to the wheel and polish the outside bevel. When it starts to dull, I touch it up with the dremel tool again. You can keep touching up quite a few times and the edge will last a long time. If it starts to get nicked, wear, etc. - I touch it up on a disc sander and start the process over again.

If you're punching wads - do it on end grain - it's a lot easier on the edge. Leather working suppliers (Tandy, etc.) carry a rubber neoprene tupe pad for the backer for using arch punches like you are talking about. They are available in 12" X 12" and 12" X 24". They make an excellent backer for punching as they are "self healing" and will last a very long time.

[bigbore52]

I will second Echo13's post but add that I normally use a piece of emery paper on a hard back such as a flat piece of wood and then work the edge that way while it is rotating in your drill press/lathe whatever..slower speed is preferable; if it's quite dull then you'll need to go through the grits as per a normal edge blade process..I prefer the backed paper or cloth sheets in preference to stoning as I find it easier to control the process that way but each to their own......to remove the burr/lip from the inside, I use the same piece of final emery (or sandpaper such as 600 or 800 grit) on a dowel and pass it ever so lightly out through the center punch or wrap it into a cone shape if you can and run that through so it retains the circular shape while it is passing through. Another trick as been mentioned is to use the end grain of some wood as the base to cut your wads - softer is preferred but then often the punch will get stuck in the end grain...you can trial different softwoods to see which is better for you but that will keep your edge longer and it's probably worth the few that get stuck as you know you won't need to hone your punch every time.

Equally, when you store your punches keep them separate from other metal bits...I use the empty plastic tubes that boolit lube comes in as they are the correct size for my punches...plus they are usually see through so you know which one you are after...just a few hints to help a fellow shooter.....hope they help and straight shoot'n

[Ballistics in Scotland]

A lot of them have an edge far more obtuse than is needed for cutting wads, especially if they are sized to produce a certain size of hole rather than a certain size of wad. If the steel is good enough, it is a good idea to thin down the edge. If you don't have a suitable drill, or if the punch is too large in diameter, you can drive a wooden dowel into the hole and let it spin in your hands against a rotating grinding wheel or belt.

Perfection, for me, was a .457 punch I made from an old .44 Magnum reloading die, to use on the reloading press. I ground flat a shellholder and soldered a copper disc to the top. You can ajust the die till it just makes contact, and the wads are pushed out at the top, where the upper part of a plastic soft drink bottle was a push fit for collecting them.

[alamogunr]

I've got two punches I bought from Buffalo Arms. They are sized to produce a specific size wad. They are available either hammer type or drill press type. I got the hammer type and use a 3' long pc of 4X6. Standing it upright, it is just right for sitting on a stool and punching out wads. The end grain of the pine(?) timber has never rolled the edge of a punch.

If they ever get dull, this thread has provided the answers.

[fiberoptik]

Ok, for my "thrifty" brothers out there, ever seen a fingernail file? Those little boards wimmins use for touch-ups? Can you say emery board?? Also found with nice little sanding blocks at Sallys, we're wimmins buys haircut/dye/color shtuff.

[stubbicatt]

Thanks fellas.

[calaloo]

Soft lead melted in something like a large jar lid makes a wonderful pad for punching wads. When it gets pretty chewed up just run your propane torch over it for a new surface. I make my own drill press style wad punches and lightly harden the cutting edge with Casnit after sharpening.

[BrentD]

calaloo - that's a great suggestion! I use a piece of endgrain hardwood - often simply a chunk of firewood. End "heals" after being hit with the punch and doesn't chip put like the side of a plank will chip.

Thanks for the idea. It might be the best one yet.

[stubbicatt]

The end of a short section of 2x4 on the garage floor has worked nicely. Now I'm on the prowl for LDPE for wads. Seems to cut cleaner than legal pad cardboard.