Thanks Lumpy - I've got almost 2 lb of 3F so I'll be trying that over the next few days. Cleaner and better groups - just how much better can it be
Ken H>
Thanks Lumpy - I've got almost 2 lb of 3F so I'll be trying that over the next few days. Cleaner and better groups - just how much better can it be
Ken H>
LOL-We ARE talk'n about REAL black powder--
Fill the case till you see .375'-.400' powder compression with the wad(I use LDPE .060)to seat a grease groove bullet. You want to run about .002" neck tension. IF your using Starline brass. You may do well to learn about case mouth annealing.
Just close the case mouth so you can chamber the round and enjoy the smoke.
LG
Hav'n you along-Is like lose'n 2 good men
or maybe no neck tension at all with a fire formed case. no annealing needed, either.
Oh yes, the "real" stuff - well, as real as Goex can make it. Lord de mercy - what icons will they come up with next?
I've been anealing brass cases since back in '70's sometime when I first got started with reloading while in college. Boy, were those broke (money wise) days!
Ken H.
Hi Ken, a lot of lessons more learned from the guys here.
it`s very intersing to follow your thread to find the right load e.g looks like similar to most beginners here.
for me i was settled on 67 grs of Schuetzen FFG , Milkcarton Wad ,.350 compression , Lyman Postel Bullet one GG exposed. S&B large Rifle Primer
I do not resize brass after firing
bur i give a little neck tension with my lyman necksizer die to avoid that the bullets stuck in the barrel ( i i need to dicharge a round) or the bullet will fall out if i turn the case upside down.
See no differencen in accuracy with or without neck tension this way.
Klaus from Germany
Ken, a little friendly tip.
It's almost impossible to see a clear target when concentrating on the front sight. In my younger years my vision was better then 20/20 sharp enough that I could see a .45 caliber hole in the white at 100 yards. Now I cant see it at 25 yards shooting my 1911.
Here is a friendly tip, get a set of Knobloch frames and see your Optometrist and tell him what you want to accomplish. Seeing the front sight clear and still the down range target good enough that you can hold on it. My eye Doc told me to bring my rifle in and I will work on what you need.
He ground my shooting eye lens that I can see the front sight post clear and also a fairly clear image at 100 yards or so and good enough at 1000 yards to be able to hold on the fuzzy black bull. The off eye he put a lens in that will give me a clear target at infinity so I can read the number boards.
With these frames you will look through the center of the lens where you get the sharpest vision with out distortion and It does not cost any more then a regular pair of glasses and they work just as well as a good quality rifle scope.
http://www.frontierarms.com.au/produ...sses-1-800.jpg
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |