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Thread: oversize bullets

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    painesville ohio
    Posts
    11

    oversize bullets

    I have a Henley & Gibbs six cavity mold. I bought it used and it cast good bullets Then the bullets started to go oversize. I cleaned the mold as best as I can. I can see no obstructions. Holding the mold up to a light I can see that the mold is not closing tight with the exception of the cavity nearest the handles. I checked the pins. Seemed to be OK. The pin nearest the handles was beaten down a bit and a little flat . the other pin is ok. I once bought a mold new with the same condition. I called the mold maker and he said the pins needed to be cut back . Send back the mold. The returned mold worked fine. So now I am thinking this problem is cause by the pins. The bolt that holds the handles is not all that tight. To correct this I need to replace the bolt which is going to be a bitch to remove. Could this be a cause. I need some ideas as to where to look to correct this problem.

    thanks

    Glenwood

  2. #2
    Boolit Master powderburnerr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    nevada
    Posts
    749
    did you look in the hole the pin sets in , there may be a drop of lead deep inside the hole...Dean
    lover of 74 sharps
    MYWEIGH scale merchant
    " i'll tell the story 10 different ways before I'll lie to you."

  3. #3
    Le Loup Solitaire
    Guest

    H&G mold problem

    The front alignment pin is holding the blocks ajar just a bit because it might be sticking out to far, But generally those pins don't work their way outward. Or it has developed some buildup or some burring around its base. Its not much of a prob to remove if you can see it or feel it. A magnifying glass or a jeweler's loup would help to spot it. Feeling it can be done with the corner edge of a razor blade but go slow and be careful with it. A dentists probe/pick also works fine. If in fact the pin is sticking out to far it normally would not be held out to far for the hole on the mating block is deep enough to accomodate it unless it is blocked by some lead or dirt. Check for that and clean out the hole. If a pin has to be seated a bit deeper use a leather or plastic mallet to do it. Place the block half on a piece of wood first.
    Then move to the hole into which the pin seats on the other block half. Burrs or gunk sometimes form around the edges and prevent the pin from seating neat and square. The corner edge of the razor blade can scrape the gunk off, but burrs can be more difficult. A round and very fine cut file will get the burrs, but go slow and easy...remember you can't put metal back and you don't want the hole to develop slop. In rare instances the area just around the hole gets "peened" and is raised a little bit (and is not level with the block half); checking for that is a test of eyesight, but if it is there, you have to take something small and flat...like a small file, but NO FILING....wrap the file tightly with some black and very fine emery paper or black auto wet or dry sandpape..very fine grit #400 or even # 600and work carefully a few strokes at a time and always check the blocks put together to see if there is any light still between them. The problem if it was here should go away. Don't be hesitant to do the work, all it takes is patience and care.
    As for the bolt or pin that holds the handles together...its a standard thread on it and it can be unloosened or tightened up to get the slop out. You need to soak the joint in Liquid Wrench #1 and #2 or some other type of stuff that they sell to un-freeze stuck machine screws or bolts. Most hinge joints are frozen. Having found that the case on a few of my H&G mold handles I have found build up of crud and had to clean the stuff out of the threads. You'll need a socket wrench of the right size or an end wrench for one side and a crescent wrench for the other. You may have to be firm, but don't force it...more liquid wrench and tapping the joint+ patience is better. It takes a bit of work, but if in the worst case scenario...the bolt snaps...its a standard hardware item and can be replaced. A thin spring washer can also be used in the reassembly, but remember you don't want the handles at that joint so tight together that its hard to open and close the blocks. Hope this helps. LLS

  4. #4
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    painesville ohio
    Posts
    11

    oversize bullets

    The holes are drilled thru the block.

    I managed to get the hinge bolt off. The hinge bolt has lead impacted into about five threads. This prevented me from getting it tight.

    When I assembled the blocks without the handles the mold was tight. So this has to be solution I hope. I will buy a new bolt tomorrow and see what happens.

    Thanks for the help guys

    Glenwood

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check