Pic of Burnt Lead? Wouldn't Harden In Mold

[bangerjim]

To make a relay-only controller work with your SSR, you will have to "wet" the relay circuit with a DC voltage wall wort transformer of the correct voltage for the SSR.

REAL industrial controllers have internal power supplies to do that with 5 or 24vdc. These el-cheapo ones do not seem to have all the bells and whistles.

banger

[cold1]

Oh.......BTW..........I do this stuff for a living. But with a 52V output from your controller to the SSR..........sounds like you have a BAD one there, my friend.

bangerjim

Bet since its a cheaper PID, it has an unfiltered DC out. He was measuring AC ripple.

[cold1]

The output light was on when I read 127 volts.

The meter was measuring AC, however, my dad stopped by, laughed and showed me the meter needed to be on DC for the input side of the ssr.

With the negative on -4 ssr and positive on +3 I get 22 volts dc. With negative on -4 ssr and positive on #4 PID I get 22 volts dc.

Not it sure if this helps at all.

What would happen if I switched -4 and +3 of the ssr? If I remove +3 on the ssr (which goes to terminal 4 on the PID) the lamp light goes out. You simulated the PID contacts opening Stopping control signal power flow

I think that you dont have the PID programed correctly.

[John Boy]

You don't need a PID unless you are casting uber consistent rifle bullets.

Goodsteel many do and some don't use a PID to cast uber consistent bullets.
It's really simple:
* Bring the mold and melt up to temperature without the PID or a thermometer, so
* When with a 5 second pour and the sprue puddle frosts in 5-7 seconds (as mentioned)
* Cut the sprue and continue the casting rhythm
Keeping an eye on the pot dial (without a thermostat) helps too!
I cast 22LR to 50-70's without a PID and my Bell Curves are within 0.5grs. Screw up your rhythm or not watch the seconds to frost and the Bell Curve numbers will increase!

[psychbiker]

I think that you dont have the PID programed correctly.

Followed several posts and manuals. I can't use settings from different makes of PIDs. Not many step by step mypin ta4 PID tutorials and the instructions are terrible and over simplified.

I have the menu memorized by now and have tried everything. It's just constantly sending power. Wiring has been checked several times and verified with other members' wired PIDs.

New PID comes tomorrow. I'll wait and try it Thursday after I hook it all up.

[bangerjim]

Just triple check your wiring B4 hooking the new one up!!!! Those el-cheep controllers have no built-in protections for reverse polarity or over voltage problems like the real industrial ones have.

banger

[John Guedry]

This tells me one thing "I don't need/want no PID".

[gray wolf]

new egg thermometer in pot

125* over liquidized

heat mold to proper warm up temp

Cast bullets

[gwpercle]

This tells me one thing "I don't need/want no PID".

John, I'm going to have to agree with you 100%. Cast iron pot on the gas range served me for years, still don't have a thermometer and don't even want to think about no PID.
When the electricty goes out, I can still cast boolits. PID's are dead in the water.
Gary

[bangerjim]

Next thing...........those cheap HF solar panel kits powering those cheap PID's on lead pots! OMG! But 800 watts IS do-able.

[bhn22]

This tells me one thing "I don't need/want no PID".

Or anything electrical or mechanical? One PID issue on this board is probably less than 1/10th of one percent of all the PIDs being used by board members. It's simply a high-grade external thermostat for an electrical lead pot. Homestly, practically anybody here could also cast over propane or a Coleman stove. We use the electric pots to reduce the effects of a very important variable in casting.

[lightman]

Well, I still want one. Its probably going to be one of my winter projects. I'm just not wild about anything made in china. And not happy that everything seems to be.

[bhn22]

I was hesitant too, at first. The only reason I built mine is because my Lyman pots thermostat went out, and it was cheaper and quicker than sending my pot to Lyman for repairs. Now I plan to build a second for use with Cerakoting and Duracoating, and some powdercoating.

[DrCaveman]

Op, id love to see some good boolit pics. You have received plenty of advice by now how to achieve that, and it is without the PID. This forum is about casting boolits first and foremost, right?

I do appreciate the electronic advice offered in this thread, and the usefulness it represents, but hey, it is all about getting a decent boolit, right? If the goal is simply to succeed at an electrical project, then this subforum may not be the appropriate place for the discussion.

Please, show us the results of these wiring/component suggestions on the boolits cast! Or, just cast the normal way

[robg]

if the sprue don't harden in a few seconds your pots too hot.if the boolits don't fill out molds are not hot enough.keep it simple till you get the basics right,then complicate things as much as you want.

[bhn22]

If the goal is simply to succeed at an electrical project, then this subforum may not be the appropriate place for the discussion.

Well, I feel the OPs on topic. There are other boards he could have asked his questions on, including "Popular Mechanics" but since he got the idea of a PID on these boards, I would have asked for help here too, since the most experience with this particular application lies here.

[lightman]

It seems like Psychbiker is getting beat up on a little, but I like how most are trying to help. I feel your pain, Bro, hang in there and Good Luck! It's prolly going to be my turn soon!

[psychbiker]

Op, id love to see some good boolit pics. You have received plenty of advice by now how to achieve that, and it is without the PID. This forum is about casting boolits first and foremost, right?

I do appreciate the electronic advice offered in this thread, and the usefulness it represents, but hey, it is all about getting a decent boolit, right? If the goal is simply to succeed at an electrical project, then this subforum may not be the appropriate place for the discussion.

Please, show us the results of these wiring/component suggestions on the boolits cast! Or, just cast the normal way

Thanks Doc for the reply

Troubleshooting a PID for casting bullets I discovered on a casting bullet site, pretty sure I'm in the right place.

Here are what I've made so far. 20lbs of 180gr 40, 198gr 30cal and a few 155gr 30cal.



I swapped PID's and followed Leadmonkey's wiring diagram. Cleaned up some crimps and used a a pair of twist locks to T off the AC power (instead directly to the PID then to SSR) and go to the SSR. It passed the light bulb test! Think a combo of bad PID and my dad rushing the wiring. He'll be stoked when I tell him I fixed his wiring and it worked

Gonna add a 20amp fuse to protect the PID now and cast later this afternoon with it.

[OuchHot!]

You should have told us you let your dad do the wiring. That was your problem right there.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Well that's great news...the boolits look very good as well.