Help me make my 35 Rem shoot

[Yodogsandman]

Did you get the same rings when you sized to .358"?

[sfauble]

Yes the same rings. This has been happening on all loads. No matter size, seating depth, crimp or no crimp. Happens all the time.

Popper made mention of the ring forming on my dummy rounds. I went back and looked at the pics. Then I went and looked at the dummy rounds. The dummy rounds were not sized. I just grabbed them and used them for setting seating depth. They drop at .360 and that is what I used. I am going to size 1 of each at .358 and make some new rounds. Going to smoke them and see how they fit.

Thank you all again for throwing out ideas and making mention of different things.

[Ole Joe Clarke]

Have you checked the neck outside diameter? You mentioned in a post that they were hard to chamber. Since the hulls were made from something else the neck diameter could be a problem, and needs to be turned down.

[sfauble]

The necks are the same size as factory and chamber fine. I measured that on the first loading to compare.

Here are two pics of both bullets sized to .358 and chambered. I can adjust OAL but wanted to show these. I may be causing my own grief with the PC. I was able to overcome it with the 308 and 30-30 but the throat on those are more generous.

[44man]

I don't know about too much seating pressure doing anything. I have one boolit that I need a small hammer to get checks on and even then the nose or ogive sees no damage, Just water dropped WW.
I set the nose on a rag and pound away. I should anneal the checks but just too lazy!

[MBTcustom]

OK, that picture really tells the tale. You can clearly see it rolling up a burr right away.
You need to have that rifle throated, no two ways about it.
http://www.4-dproducts.com/displayit...0&tname=rental

http://shop.pacifictoolandgauge.com/...oducts_id=7820

[44man]

That does show a too tight ogive and rifling marks too deep. Bore ride should just touch, not get engraved. Dang, the marks are almost rifling depth.

[sfauble]

Appreciate the replies. So looking at each picture can you tell me what you looking at. I notice on my 308 bullets when hitting the lands it's gradual with no lead push. For lack of better terminology it as if these are straight cut and not ramped.

[popper]

44man - maybe because my seater plug is flat? HT'd alloy in tight/tough neck. Get to pull these.
Attachment 143845

[popper]

44man - maybe because my seater plug is flat? HT'd alloy in tight/tough neck. Get to pull these. Ogive is supposed to be radius'd. Also need to anneal these cases.
Attachment 143845

[44man]

Could be! I made one mold for my 30-30 where I got the nose too large and it left marks like you have. Hard to chamber. But I got no rings.
I bought a Lee push through and lapped it to .301" and just size the ogive with it. That fixed my problems.
It IS possible you are expanding the boolit. Measure the ogive before and after seating.
Making my own molds has put a strain on me, never knowing what exact size to cut a cherry. Mostly I am lucky. Cheap Smithy that I can't use the marks on the dials with confidence. Skim cut and measure over and over.
For dies I am in love with Hornady, the inline seat die is great. No flare tool for the rifle though so I made my own from an old RCBS seat die. I actually made the flare plug from brass and it has worked for hundreds and hundreds of cases.

[sfauble]

Well I took a break from this rifle for a few weeks. Headed to the range this morning with 50 rounds. 25 of each bullet tumble lubes with lla, sized and checked at .358. 5 each .5 gr increments. Just looking for something to work with. Shot at 50 yards they were looking like my 100 yard groups. I shot them round robin and let the barrel cool between shots. No luck. After ejecting a few rounds and seeing the rings still there even without the PC I new I was looking at throat issue as a few of you said.

I chambered 5 rounds near the end of the session and compared all of them after ejecting and all were starting to form the ring from just clambering. I also noticed something when they all were standing on the shooting bench. They all engrave heavier toward the right side of the chamber. When I ejected them I indexed them so I could compare. Is it possible the chamber is slightly off center?

As much as I like the gun itself I am leaning toward just dumping it and moving on to the next project. Savage action custom .358 20" barrel may just cure my 35 remington blues.

[TXGunNut]

I wouldn't give up on it without a trip to the gunsmith. Goodsteel suggested it needed throating and that isn't that big a deal if the rifle is otherwise sound. I'd go with GS's suggestion; I've learned a fair bit about throats ond concentricity from his posts.

[waksupi]

I wouldn't give up on it without a trip to the gunsmith. Goodsteel suggested it needed throating and that isn't that big a deal if the rifle is otherwise sound. I'd go with GS's suggestion; I've learned a fair bit about throats ond concentricity from his posts.

Why not just send it to Goodsteel, let him fix the problem, and be happy? He's a pretty smart guy when it comes to .35 bores.

[44man]

If you are engraving more on one side. Roll some rounds on the table and watch for wobble.
You can't use a dial indicator on cast but you can on the neck.
Even though reamed, you still might have brass thicker on one side.
It drove me nuts on the 30-30, as much as .020" out at the neck alone let alone at the boolit. Rounds would flop around on the table like a fish out of water until I turned them. Now I run zero to a max of .002".
When you PC, do only the drive bands and not the ogive. You are making the boolit thicker where it is already too large. Seems as if you peel a ring just chambering.
A sharp ball seat is still possible.

[sfauble]

I checked around locally and found a few smiths to do the throat. Going to be around 100 dollars. I could send it to GS but still gonna cost money. Now don't get me wrong, I have no problem spending money but I'm not sure I want to spend it on this rifle.

I don't think the brass is the issue. Grumpa brass on its second loading shouldn't be the issue. What do you mean by a sharp ball seat?

I am considering renting the reamer and trying it myself and I am also considering fire laping with a few rounds to open it up and smooth it out a little. I just need to figure out how much more time and money I want to spend on this rifle.

[44man]

Ball seat is the end of the throat or start of rifling , should have a little taper to it. Small forcing cone.

[sfauble]

From what I can see with the light I have it appears to be square. We have an automotive bore scope at work. I am going to borrow it and look in the chamber and see if it is.

[JesterGrin_1]

Any further updates?

I have been messing with a 1972 JM Marlin 336 in 35 Remington and as you have noted there is no real throat. As the boolit when it hits the lands will push lead back from the start of those lands. Of which means for the moment I will probably cut the brass a bit further back to enable me to crimp the BRP-360-220 RNFP/GC boolit in the crimp groove and enable easier feeding into the chamber.

But later if worse comes to worse or I simply want to I will probably send it off to GS if he has the reamers to give it a more gentle throat angle.

[sfauble]

None yet. Been so busy the last few days I have not had a chance to mess with it. Hopefully tomorrow or no later than this weekend. I may shoot GS a PM and discuss the throating option. I was offered 100 less than what I have into it right now with dies and such. I may just take the money and move on.

Contemplating a R92 in 454 casull for a 100 yard gun for dear and hogs. Maybe a scout scope but most likely a nice peep sight. I also have plans for a 358 win build so I will get to keep the mold making bullets.