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Thread: Question for you mechanics

  1. #21
    Boolit Master .45Cole's Avatar
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    Let us shade tree mechanics know in the end. We have a pot going and the winner gets another tree (to expand business of course!)

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    Seen way to many of these intermittent issues w Fords, the kind you chase your tail around and round trying to find. Replace this, then that, one truck its the fuel pump, next one a sender, another time the computer. Be one thing if it was something consistent, I worked on VWs, most of the time it was the fuel pump relay, was the first thing you messed with on a car with such issues.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master Handloader109's Avatar
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    Don't down Ford, there are Many more Ford trucks on the road than the other guys and I see an awful lot of Chevy Dodge and gmc trucks on the side of the road

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Cars/trucks these days are all about the same.
    Every brand has their quirks.
    I've not have good luck with Fords. I don't think they like me.
    An intermittent problem on any brand is a PITA. Even for a dealership.
    It's easy to get into the "try this" kind of repairs. But it will cost lots of buck. Sometimes with no better results.
    Engine control problems are the hardest to find and repair.
    Doing it over the net is more or less a hit and miss thing.
    Not what you want to hear but, I'd ask around about a who's good mechanic.
    Find one that is willing to Work "with you" to solve the problem.
    I'm still thinking it's a fuel problem.
    Any stored codes????
    Dose it have enough fuel pressure???
    Are the injectors firing????
    Is the cold start system working????
    All the relays and sensors need to be tested.
    If all seems good, it could be the computer.

  5. #25
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    MaryB's Avatar
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    I have driven Fords and GMC into the ground, I have had horrible luck with anything badged Chevy... GMC Jimmy went well over 450k miles. 1 engine, 1 transmission, one driveshaft and 1 transfer case chain were the only repairs over its life. And it got hammered, we used it as our deer hunting truck. Drove a Ford Van to 350k miles too, still ran great, rusted out from under me and was unsafe to drive...

  6. #26
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    tomme boy's Avatar
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    Does it even have gas in the tank???

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
    JSnover's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomme boy View Post
    Does it even have gas in the tank???
    Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.

  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy
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    When it finally quits, I will let you know the outcome. Haven't had any problems since.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master
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    Well when it does take it to the dealer. It might cost you more per hour but they most likely will figgure it out alot faster. Make sure you WRITE DOWN A DETALED NOTE of exactly what has happened. There is nothing worse when the writer miss interpreted what the problem is and then tells the tech the wrong story

  10. #30
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Even the dealership is a hit and miss.
    I've had many redo's from dealers repairs.
    Customer refused to take it back to them, even knowing it might cost more.
    Had a guy that took his great running car to replace a rear view mirror.
    They talked him into and oil change and replace the leaking valve cover seal.
    As he was driving home, it started knocking and smoking.
    Pulled over waited a little while and went back to the dealer.
    A hour later they couldn't find anything wrong.
    He somehow made it home.
    Had the car towed to me.
    The dealer didn't change a seal that is always replaced with the valve cover gasket.
    Had to take the valve cover off again to replace it.
    Cost for the seal was $2.
    Everything back to normal.
    Told him to go back to the dealer and get his money back.
    He said he'd never go back there again.
    Not all mechanics at dealerships are bad. But it is a hit and miss thing.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master .45Cole's Avatar
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    I took a diesel Jeep to a dealer that only did Jeeps and their diesel expert couldn't track down a wierdo rattle from the engine/tranny area (after he said he couldn't find it, then blamed it on the engine cover being off). He told me he checked out everything, and guaranteed me the motor mounts weren't bad (common problem). $50 later for nothing, I finally swapped the motor mounts figuring that was the only thing it could be. As I got the first one out, it rattled (hydro mounts do this when they're toast). After replacing both mounts, not a problem. Pollard in Boulder actually charged me to lead me in the wrong direction, and really didn't do anything.

    Watch out for the stealerships!

  12. #32
    Boolit Buddy benellinut's Avatar
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    Twisted wrenches for 25 years, for an engine to run you need fuel, spark, compression and timing. If you can start it with an outside fuel source (Ether) then you have bad fuel or a fuel delivery problem.

    If the fuel is good it could be low or no fuel pressure or injectors not firing. The reasons for any of those can range from electrical problems due to bad wiring, bad connection, failed computer, bad relay, bad fuel pump or a simple blown fuse, did you check ALL the fuses? Low or no pressure could be due to any of the fore mentioned or blockage like a crushed line or hose or a plugged filter, if it ran OK one day and then not start the next it's probably NOT the fuel filter or a blocked line.

    First, check all the fuses! Replace any and all blown fuses, crank it and see if it will start. If it doesn't, check the fuses again and see if one or more blew during the test crank, if it did you narrowed your problem.

    How handy are you? Can you diagnose wiring problems? Read a digital volt meter and run tests with it? What kind of testing tools do you have? Do you have a code reader, shop manual, fuel pressure tester, digital volt meter? If not it's a hit or miss guessing game that can get expensive replacing parts that aren't bad. You may find rusted and stuck on parts that weren't bad and you spent a lot of time trying to replace them when they weren't the problem. End up breaking open a rusted fuel line to replace a fuel filter that wasn't plugged and your only going backwards.

    Check the fuses, if that's not it get a manual, I subscribe online for all my repair manuals here --> https://www.alldatadiy.com/buy/index.html These are FACTORY repair manuals and alldata also include all recalls and bulletins, search for alldatadiy coupon codes, they constantly run discounts. Don't get in over your head, throw away a lot of money replacing good parts before you admit you need someone to look at it for you, sometimes you can cost yourself more problems and money trying to repair it yourself. Good luck, I hope it's a easy and inexpensive fix for you.

    And here's a tip, if you end up needing a mechanic, go to a Ford dealer, they know the product and probably have an idea what's the problem is before they even bring it into the shop and that means you save money. Take it to joe blow who works on everything under the sun and he will most likely fix it, but it could take him hours or days to diagnose and he's gonna charge you for all his time. If you can sneak in the Ford shop, ask a couple of the techs if they work on the side and would be willing to take a look at it for you, most of them love to make extra coin on the side and will charge you less then if they end up working on it at the dealer and you pay the dealers shop rate. Having a couple cold beers on hand when they show up and being friendly will most likely lower what they will charge, but don't give them a twelve pack while they are working on it LoL.
    Be careful what you wish for!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check