FA Hand DE-priming tool?

[GoodOlBoy]

I've got several of the lee classic loader deprime tools. The problem is that I was thinking about something that would be easy to use sitting in the living room watching tv, and catching the primers and gunk.

GoodOlBoy

[mdi]

Yeah, interesting tool. I hear a lot of fellers tout the Lee Hand press for "Depriming while I watch TV". I tried that once, but as I like to concentrate on what I'm doing (I continually inspect my cases/loads during the process), and I didn't like the primer residue in my lap, it only happened once. Depriming before tumbling, depriming after tumbling, tumbling wet or dry, tumbling to achieve ultra shiny, virgin looking brass, or not tumbling at all, depriming with a dedicated tool, depriming only when sizing, depriming during "Gunsmoke" or during the liberal, skewed news program it's all a personal choice and no one can determine which is right or wrong (If you think you can, please show me your Reloading Police Badge).

Just my thinking, but stating in a post someone "obviously don't", is way outta left field. Unless you know that person personally, or that person has stated specifically he don't, it's just anonymous speculation (aka WAG), and kinda arrogant/superior acting. You obviously don't know anything about polite, gentlemanly replies on a forum. (Kinda an arrogant, idiotic statement, eh?)

[W.R.Buchanan]

I get surprised how often these threads turn into pissing matches.

I've done it too on occasion, but I have to say,

"You can catch more flies with sweetness, than you can with Sour Puss."

I really wish more people would think about what they are going to write before they swell up like toads and spew their Toad Juice all over the landscape.

This place is all about sharing ideas, and the only ideas that deserve wrath are the ones that are patently absurd or dangerous. Plenty of room for the rest of them.

So far I have found no one that knows everything, and I bet even if I did find him,,, he wouldn't cop to it.

A little more respect is definitely in order.

Randy

[dudel]

I guess I am doing something wrong then! I have de-capped/resized thousands of rounds without ever cleaning the brass. And have NEVER seen any scratches or gouges in any of my SOLID CARBIDE sizing dies from Lee. Pretty hard to scratch solid carbide with only brass and powder gunk. How do you guys scratch them???????

banger

I doubt the grit will scratch the carbide; but it can scratch the case. Get grit between the carbide and the brass, and the softer of the three takes the hit. That usually means the brass.

I clean prior to processing because it's a smoother process for me. Takes more time; but I enjoy the process. Got a small Lee C press for the universal decapper to keep the grit out of the Rockchucker and the Dillon. The Lee get's pretty dirty; and that's dirt/grit not going into the Green and Blue presses. Clean cases seem to work better in my dies than dirty ones. YMMV, and to each what works for them.

[mdi]

I clean/tumble before depriming.
I clean/tumble after depriming.
I deprime on my primary press.
I deprime on a dedicated "depriming press"
I use a universal depriming die.
I use the sizing/depriming die.
I use a Lee Loader depriming punch.
I use a universal depriming rod and base.
It all depends on how I feel at the time.

So, I guess I'm right/wrong all around...

[country gent]

The softer material dosnt always take the wear. When lapping the soft lead or brass lapp is impregnated with compound ( basically just rolling the lapp in the compound to set it into the surface. Done with dry compound you can feel it in the surface and actually use it as a file with a light touch) and cuts the harder materials quite well. Carbide is harder and dosnt raise the burrs like softer materials do. but it can scratch. There are alot of misconceptions of carbide being the catch all do all material It has its places where it shines ( high heat, wear and low lubrication) and also others where it fails ( high vibration, impacts, and small sectional areas).

[mdi]

The softer material dosnt always take the wear. When lapping the soft lead or brass lapp is impregnated with compound ( basically just rolling the lapp in the compound to set it into the surface. Done with dry compound you can feel it in the surface and actually use it as a file with a light touch) and cuts the harder materials quite well. Carbide is harder and dosnt raise the burrs like softer materials do. but it can scratch. There are alot of misconceptions of carbide being the catch all do all material It has its places where it shines ( high heat, wear and low lubrication) and also others where it fails ( high vibration, impacts, and small sectional areas).

As far as I know, and in my experience, the lap is just a carrier for the lapping/cutting compound which actually removes metal. If measured before and after lapping I would say the lap will show definite wear...

[country gent]

After 35 years as a tool and die maker and doing a little lapping over the years yes the lap wears as do grinding wheels sand paper . THe standard practice is to impregnate the lapp and it does cut the harder material do to this effect. cutting to hard or overworking pulls the impregnated from the lap and as the compound breaks down loose grit is present cutting everything. Cheap carbide burrs are soft steel with the carbide plated on yet they do cut hardened steel. A grinding wheel that dopsnt break down dosnt cut cleanly but loads and burns the parts. Lapping is a form of grinding done by hand and can be a very precise operation done corectly.

[W.R.Buchanan]

To add to what CG says above. The term that is used in lapping is called "charging the lap." The lapping compound embeds itself in the softer surface of the lap and with it's sharp edges exposed acts like a very fine grinding wheel. As those edges degrade or as the particles get expelled from the area the cutting action slows down. You recharge and go again if needed.

The lap will continue to cut as long as the particles it is charged with are sharp. Grit has cutting edges just like a tool bit, and they also wear out.

This is why you dress a grinding wheel. To get new sharp edges to cut the material you are working. This is why you change grinding belts and why sandpaper wears out. The cutting edges of the grit dull and after that the temperature of the material you are working starts to increase due to the friction of the dull media against the material you are working.

On a surface grinder when the wheel is loaded the surface finish degrades and usually you will get burned areas on your cuts. This is how you know to dress the wheel. (Actually you should have done it long before this happens, but that's another story.)

Typically you want to reserve lapping for hardened surfaces because if you try to lap soft material the soft material will get charged right along with the lap and will continue to cut whatever you put in the hole that needed to be fitted that close.

Generally speaking there is very few instances where that tight a fit would be required in a soft material. There are other ways to get a close fit with soft materials hence reserving lapping for the hard stuff. Scraping is one way that comes to mind.

Randy

[gwpercle]

Will they ever stop coming up with new and improved, must gotta-have, neat , loading tools?????
I've been buying loading "stuff" since 1967...and I still find things I can't live without!
I will say Frankford Arsenal is creative....they came out with a case drying machine, got to looking at it...guess what??? It's nothing but a food dehydrator ...5 trays and all just like the one I make jerky with, stuck on a label saying case dryer and jacked up the price .... of course it cost more...it's a special reloading thing/tool/gizzmo. I'm not buying it ...enough is enough.
Gary
than a jerky maker

[VHoward]

And since the cases are clean, you can dry them in the dehydrator without worries. I do it.

[3006guns]

The old hand depriming tools (like the Frankford and Springfield) had a definite use.......one that we have a hard time understanding in this day of progressive presses and semi automatic everything else....

In ye olde days.....around the 1880's to early 1900's, the shooter would deprime and wash his cases of powder residue. He would then reprime, charge and seat the bullet.

Wait a minute?? No sizing? Not even neck sizing? Nope, the bullet was literally thumb pressed into the case mouth, inserted into the breech and the shooter would bang away. This was primarily a target or "bench" type reloading, although the old boys wouldn't understand the term "bench rest". They were just shooting for fun and experimenting with different loads. Note the word "fun"....seems we do it for the same reason, only faster.

It wasn't until after WWI when tools began to have the beginnings of combined operations, culminating in the sizing die we know today that deprimes, sizes and expands the case mouth to a specified diameter.

All of us have different ideas and techniques that we like. I've experimented with a lot of them over the years and to be honest fellas, the old ways are kinda fun and a great way to relax. By separating the operations it almost forces you to treat your brass like the gold it really is!

[seawolf]

I reload a lot of military brass and I wonder if the hand de-primer would even pop the primers out and if it did how far they would fly. If spent primers were o get in the carpet my wife would most likely break my dinner plate and a few other things.
Mark

[Idaho Sharpshooter]

seawolf,

just use the $6 Lee depriming tool. It has a hollow base the primers collect in. I made a replacement about 3" tall and hollowed out inside.

And, la-de-da for me, I use an arbor press to deprime!! So, I believe that makes me better than all of you...