A.C.E. Co 300 BLK - 230 Gr

[MGySgt]

I purchased one of these last year and finally got around to casting with it. Mine has 3 PB and 3 GC cavities.

Problem I am having is that the GC will not start onto the GC shank. The GC shank is too large.

If I open up the GC so it will slide on to the base and then usemy RCBS LAM The nose really gets deformed due to the amount of force required to seat the GC's.

I can use a Lee push through, but even then the GC's get a little defomed and I know there has to be some shaving of the lead.

How are the rest of the members appling their GC's to these boolits???

Thank you for any help/information you can provide

Drew

[kiwi]

Hi Drew I have the same problem, I have one of NOE's chamfer tools I chamfer the base and seat the GC in a .313" die in my Lam 11 then run them through
one of buckshots .312" push through dies much better than the LEE it does not shave any lead, then size and lube them either .309" or .310" a bit of fiddling
about but I have got the technique down pat and can get them done fairly quick,
Robert

[MGySgt]

Thank you Robert, I knew there was a chamfering tool available, but I cold not find it on my searches and wondered if someone hadn't come up with a tool that would cut the correct size shank on the boolit.

Now that I now who makes the chamfering tool, I will order the hand held tool vice the one that will chuck in a drill or electric screw driver.

[Moonie]

Mine was PB for all cavities, one thing you can do however is get a 25-06 Lee FCD, it will crimp the gas check shank to exactly the right size if you put them in from the top side. I do this with GC boolits I powder coat before installing gc's.

[MGySgt]

Moonie - As we always say - loaders and casters will come up with a way!

[g.man10mm]

I also bought the GC version of this mold, thinking I might want to use it in the '06 (really wish I would have gone with my initial instinct to get PB). After a while, I tried it out with 2x coats Hi-Tek and no GC with 10.2 GR AA1680. It is quite accurate for what it is (about 1.5-2" for 10 rounds at 100) in my 16" 1-8 twist BO. This is a little better than 220 SMKs shoot in this particular rifle. This has been my go-to subsonic load ever since. Taking this a step further a few weeks ago, I tried 10 rounds, as cast, water dropped, with 3x coats of BLL, hoping this might be a nice time-saving shortcut. Accuracy-wise, it was right on par with the Hi-Tek, and if there was much leading it mostly shot out later in the session. I'm hoping to have time to test this further with a larger sample and more controlled conditions in the next few weeks. Something to think about anyways.

[MGySgt]

10.2 gr of 1680? Does that function the bolt? and if so wha length of gas system do you have? (Carbine or Pistol).

[g.man10mm]

10.2 gr of 1680? Does that function the bolt? and if so wha length of gas system do you have? (Carbine or Pistol).

Good point, probably worth an explanation.

It runs fine in an unmodified 10.2" Noveske w/ pistol gas system.

It runs with 100% reliability in the aforementioned carbine built with a 16" AR Stoner SS lightweight profile barrel w/ carbine gas system, stock carbine buffer and spring, but with the gas port modified to .120, either suppressed or un-suppressed. I can't remember the initial gas port size on the barrel, but prior to modification, if would not run ANYTHING subsonic, either suppressed or un-suppressed. I gradually stepped up the diameter until I was happy. I've gone as low as 9.6 gr 1680 with good reliability, but found 10.2 to provide the best balance of quietness and accuracy. What I like about that barrel is that it's a reasonably priced stainless steel lightweight barrel, with a generous throat that does really well with all manner of cast/coated bullets.

[MGySgt]

I have a little bit of 1680 here, I will give it a try in my 16 in Noveske barrel with a pistol gas system. That is as soon as it quits raining here in Va!