RotoMetals2WidenersLee PrecisionTitan Reloading
MidSouth Shooters SupplyRepackboxADvertise hereInline Fabrication

Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: PID help

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Kansas US of A
    Posts
    1,355

    PID help

    Ok gents I have put it off long enough. I have seen way to much positive input to put it off any longer.
    I have looked through various threads on the subject. So be nice because I am pretty sensitive, not lol. However I am not of the electric type. Actually I am allergic to electricity.
    Is there a list out there of proven parts to assemble one of these? Have a retired buddy that is good with electrical, I get the parts he will help me.
    Yes, I did see several lists, but they were pretty dated. Also thought that those of you using these on a frequent basis had worked most of the bugs out and the does and don'ts of them.
    Thanks
    Jeff

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    RobS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    4,512
    This seller is probably the easiest to work with as he is packaging this out with everything you need, even thermal grease for the SSR and the heat sink.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/261286976034...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
    Make sure to ask for the Type K Thermocoupler - probe K-TYPE @ 5 X 100 MM ( 4 INCH PROBE , 1 METER OF WIRE , 0-800 C)

    You may be able to piece things together cheaper but not by much. You will only need some sort of enclosure to finish it up and and some wiring and connectors. I used an old burnt out computer powder supply box for mine. I've seen people even use a cardboard box for an enclosure although this wouldn't be my choice.



    Here is a wiring diagram:


    and another although the above is a direct comparison for the Mypin controller.



    And also used with my oven:

  3. #3
    bhn22
    Guest
    They're really quite basic. I was hesitant to build mine, but if you can rewire a table lamp, you should be able to build a PID. The wiring directions are really clear on the "MyPin" PIDS, and all you need is a solid state relay, a suitable box, a way to get power in and power out, a thermocouple (get the high range one) and an on/off switch for a basic unit. There are a number of threads here, many are slightly different, but essentially the same. The wire you need is available by the foot at most good hardware stores. I soldered my wire connections, but many don't seem to do this. I will warn you that the cheaper PIDS are probably not stocked in the U.S. and that it may take a month to get them. If you search on Amazon, they have packages listed with a PID, SSR, and the thermocouple.

    Name:  pid.jpg
Views: 282
Size:  56.6 KB

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    412
    I'd go with what RobS indicated above. I have the MyPin TA4 in mine, so if I were to build another, this is the kit I'd get.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master


    blikseme300's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Deep South Texas, RGV
    Posts
    1,540
    I have built a number of PID units for myself and other folks learning along the way that there is a fine line between cheap and economical. I don't promote the "money is no object" route but my experience has been that getting the parts including the enclosure for Auber Instruments is the easiest route. I have done a number of units with parts sourced from evilbay as well as Amazon but the failure rate and lack of data sheets of these have soured me.

    My last unit I had to do as economically as possible and used parts sourced from Amazon costing $64.12 which included everything except the wiring/cables and plugs. Pity is that the PID came with NO instructions and the seller through Amazon store never responded to requests for this. Luckily a member here from Oz sent me the sheets. The unit works fine and has had fair use over a number of casting sessions but the gotcha is that it only displays Centigrade so a conversion table is used.

    My opinion is that the cost of PID itself should not be the deciding factor as the bulk of the expense is other than it. Example is that as I use 240V for my rigs and the cost of the plugs alone equal the cost of a PID from Auber and there is actually support that will answer a call.
    Liberalism is the triumph of emotion over intellect, but masquerading as the reverse.

    I don't know how we ever shot maximum loads before P/C come along and saved us all. R5R

    "No mosque in the United States flies an American flag."

  6. #6
    bhn22
    Guest
    Auber does a great job, ships fast, and stocks a lot of the incidental parts that make the project easier, like the jack and plugs for the thermocouple in my picture. I wanted to be able to use interchangable TCs, and this was the best way to do it.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master dikman's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Sth Oz - A Land Downunder
    Posts
    1,972
    JSH, the parts lists may be "dated", but that is only a problem if they've listed ebay suppliers who may not be around anymore. The basic principles, and parts required, haven't changed. If you're not feeling relaxed about sourcing the bits then get them locally (as in the US). It may cost a bit more but it should give you peace-of-mind. All of my bits have been sourced via ebay ('cos they're all horribly expensive here!) and I've had no problems with the three that I've built - other than figuring out how to programme the PIDs, as bhn has mentioned.

    I'd suggest you consider buying a spare SSR and probe too, that way if you do have problems you won't have to wait for the bits to come in.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy benellinut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    253
    Quote Originally Posted by RobS View Post
    This seller is probably the easiest to work with as he is packaging this out with everything you need, even thermal grease for the SSR and the heat sink.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/261286976034...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
    Make sure to ask for the Type K Thermocoupler - probe K-TYPE @ 5 X 100 MM ( 4 INCH PROBE , 1 METER OF WIRE , 0-800 C)

    You may be able to piece things together cheaper but not by much. You will only need some sort of enclosure to finish it up and and some wiring and connectors. I used an old burnt out computer powder supply box for mine. I've seen people even use a cardboard box for an enclosure although this wouldn't be my choice.
    That ebay listing shows one of the fake SSR's that's out there, the seller may not be aware. Here's a link with good photos that shows the difference between the fake and real SSR's.
    http://canada.ul.com/safetyalerts/ul...lease-13pn-52/

    I'm going to run my Lee Pro 4 pot on just the PDI with an internal relay skipping the SSR. It will be a much smaller box and a simple setup, here is a thread on the topic.
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raws-6-36-amps

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check