Hammer mold

[jackley]

The head to my lead hammer fell off the other day and I was whacking away on something and wanted another one. So off to town I go. In a town of 16,000 people you would think there would be a lead hammer somewhere. But No! Check on a dead blow(one of those red ones, 38 bucks no way)

On the way home I stopped and got a soda. And thats when it hit me, aluminum can molds. Just cut the top out of a can cut a round hole in the center of the side, and stick in a piece of pipe, fill around pipe with that 2 part epoxy paste stuff, support handle and pour. Pull off can with a pair of pliers and your done. Not as pretty as a hammer mold but after a few whacks its all the same.

A 12 oz. pop can 9lbs. Some kind of energy drink can found in the road ditch 6 lbs, Thats the one I wanted.

The sizes are endless fruit juice cans, V-8, tomato paste can.

Now the good part its free and you don't have to wait for that dead beat Medic 44 to give up the groups mold.

Jerry

[Sprue]

Well, ok, give us an update..... Myself, I would not put any faith into pouring 700 deg melt into something as thin as a soda can or anything aluminum for that matter. Careful now !

Someone has instructions around here on one of the Stickys' showing how to make a mold from copper pipe, I think it was.

[jackley]

Sprue

Guess you don't use Lee molds.

I didn't see any sign of a mold (tin can) malfunction. It works just fine put it on the welding table put some magnets around the can so it won't tip over. prop the pipe handle to the right height and go to pouring. Used a hunts tomato paste can today I'd say made around a 4 1/2 pounder works great. Oh don't forget to put some tin foil in the end of the pipe handle. Hot lead runs right down it from the tin can mold. At least that's what I've heard.
Jerry

[GSM]

Sprue:

Not a problem - empties work as ingot molds in a pinch as well.

[LazyJW]

We use babbit hammers in the sawmill business, I've made many myself. We use common steel pipe of whatever diameter and length desired , split it in half lengthwise with a hacksaw. Use hose clamps to hold it together, grind or file a notch at the seam for the handle to poke out. This is the only critical part, making the notch fit the handle so all the lead/babbit/whatever doesn't leak out. Stand it on a steel plate, prop the handle up level, and pour it full. If it doesn't work the first time, melt it down and try again.
Joe

[SHOOTER IN EXILE]

I would like to know the adventages of lead hammer, may be something I ignore.
I understand that soft metal tools are used to avoid damage to iron or steel parts such as screws or pins and can't imagine the need to hammer brass objects, mainly cartridge cases, that anyway would be damaged even by a lead hammer.
I made a brass hammer from a brass padlock, of those that lie around the house and the work shop with the keys long lost. The padlocks almost always have a generous solid portion that was not bored during manufacture. Cutting carefully with a hacksaw, it can be relieved. Mine is 3"x1". I bored a 3/8 hole and screwed in an apropriate length of those screw bars, sold in hardware shops, until it protruded some half inch from the other side of the brass, sometimes it would take some effort. Then I secured both end of the bar (call it handle), with a couple of nuts. A lengthwise bored through a wooden stick, the size and thickness you find comfortable may be screwed on the long and of the screw bar to make a handle. This same procedure could be used to make a lead hammer from scratch. No need to melt and pour the lead. Cut a lead bar the size you need and be sure the nuts are firmly in place. A few blows with an iron hammer would make quite difficult for the pieces to fall apart. I'm not a fervent cheapsk. nor a very generous guy, just in between. But someone "confiscated" my factory made brass hammer and couldn't find a suitable replacement. Besides in our trade-hobby-gun loving-reloading fraternity I feel a great sense of accomplishment using tools we made ourselves.
I sincerely advice that out of use padlocks should be kept in a padlocked safe.
I have even made bullet moulds from such humble stuff.

[Bad Water Bill]

Use electricians FRICTION tape around the handle where it exits the pop can. It worked on the OLD hammer mould very well. Do not ask. ALSO if you use a 1/2 inch bolt with the hex head inside the can your head should not come loose . Cover the threaded end with old garden hose for a better grip. BWB