Passed on Savage 99

[blixen]

I've posted before that I've gotta hankering for a Sav. 99. I got good advice, thanks.

So I closed in on one at pawn shop. "h" stamp (1956) in 30-30. Take-down model. Good condition-- a little pitting on receiver and bluing rubbed off the end of the barrel. Cracked wrist of buttstock, repaired with pins and glue. Gleaming bore after I ran a few patches through it. Original peep tang sight and hinged scope mount.
Attachment 139624
$400 OTD, which is a lot of $ to me. I've looked at about a dozen 99s, the cheapest was $600 for one of the more recent ones with impressed checkering.

When I waffled, the guy kindly let me take it home (with full deposit) shoot it if I wanted. ( I've bought guns from him before.)

the big problem was the take-down. Visually pristine, no apparent wear. But after fiddling with it for a couple hours I could NOT get the wobble entirely out of it. A tiny bit remained, I almost couldn't see it--but I could feel it. For the heck of it, I cleaned the copper out of the bore and shot it with an assortment of handloads and got 3 inch groups with 7-8 grains of Red Dot at 75 yards, 157 gr. .311--so there is possibly potential. And I have idea for a fix, but the attempt would have voided my handshake warranty with the guy.

Btw, I searched the Net for a fix and the answers varied from gluing it permanently with aircraft epoxy to a poorly explained method of peening the threads to having the barrel set back and rechambered.

In short, the negatives added up enough that I didn't want to risk my fix, or pay a gunsmith to try something. so I took it back. I know, anti-climatic.

[richhodg66]

I'd have dropped $400 without hesitating, but I'm a real sucker for 99s.

Hold out for what you want, you're the one who has to be happy with it.

[pworley1]

The hunt is half the fun. Keep looking, you will know it when you see it.

[Artful]

Or you could share the phone# of the shop and we can salve our addiction.

[OverMax]

The Savage take-downs often require a heavily charged hunting cartridge so's to tighten its barrel assembly to its take-down threading. The shooting of light target charges seldom do what's required. I've got one one of these rifles and that's what mine requires to tighten itself up. There after its accuracy remains constant until its broke down again. It's not loose. I believe it's just the way those early rifles were designed.

[Jedman]

That was a real good price you got it for. The tang sight is worth at least $ 150 alone.

Jedman

[M-Tecs]

Go back and buy it and sell it to me for $475.00 plus shipping or have the shop sell it to me and I will send you $25.00 for a finders fee. PM sent. This is a serious offer.

[nekshot]

if straight grip, you did right. If pistol grip I would have emptied the piggy bank!

[451whitworth]

I don't think take downs were manufactured after WW2. I don't think they chambered the 30-30 in the 99 after WW2 either.

[quack1]

To me, it looks like a reblue job, might be why the lower than usual price. Extremely hard to tell from one picture, but it looks the screw holes and cartridge counter hole are slightly dished out from polishing. Also the joint between barrel and receiver has been rounded off a little. Finally, the lever appears to have a purple cast to it which can happen when you reblue a part that was originally case hardened.

[ascast]

I have a couple of those and they tend to be loose. They need to be to in a take down. I suggest you go back, buy it and really drive it around the block. You got a couple guys here who have expressed interest should you ultimately not be happy. I would certainly run a box or 2 of full throttle loads trough it. Good tuned up load or at least concentricely seated bullets in a box of factory ammo. It might surprise you. As for the fixes, glueing is good, but really hard to do if it is a real takedown; meaning interupted threads. Be sure to check the release temp of the glue before going that route. Shimming the barrel forward is also very good, but good luck finding someone to do it.

[021]

Something isn't right. Takedowns were not manufactured in 1956, or anywhere near then. Pass on that one.

[blixen01]

I don't think take downs were manufactured after WW2. I don't think they chambered the 30-30 in the 99 after WW2 either.

It looks like it's much older than 50s, but it has an "H" on the lever boss.. (?) I'm no expert. It has a curved steel butt plate engraved Savage Arms.

Re: other questions/comments:
In did fire a dozen 28-29 gr. loads of 322 topped with 150 gr. Speer jacketed. That loosened the barrel.

I didn't want to get into it but Here's my theory on tightening it (with all the BS on the web about 99s, I might as well add mine.)--those familiar with take downs can follow this.
The threads hold the barrel tight, but it has a slot that indexes on a metal tab in the forearm when you snap it on. I found that if the barrel was fully tightened, it had no wobble. But if it backed out counterclockwise just the tiniest amount, say less than the thickness of a business card, it would have a perceptible wobble.

The indexing tab is just not that precise and to make matters worse, the forearm socket has a little play, it's only held in place by a spring loaded latch. BTW, the barrel spun right of with a little hand twist.

I did an experiment. Using Aluminum tape, I shimmed the offside of the tab so it pushed the barrel clockwise and it actually worked (of course a few shot packed the tape and the wobble came back.) fix would be to solder or braise a brass shim in place and also tighten the tolerance in the forearm socket. While also somehow making the barrel threads torque tighter.. It would be a PITA to take the barrel off, but that was probably a bad idea in the first place.

The above are the musings of a hillbilly engineer.

[blixen]

M-Techs. PM sent.

[pietro]

.

FWIW, I'd have passed on it, also - and, in fact, have done so several times in the past.

I don't do either Grey Rats (dull/patina receiver), or poor polish/reblue jobs (note the improper rounded edges @ the takedown seam).

In over 50 years, I've yet to buy a gun just because it was inexpensive - I have to like it, too.



.

[northmn]

If I were to get another Savage it would not be in a 30-30 either. That likely brought the price down a bit also. The big sellers for use are the 300 and the 250. 250's really bring a premium price locally. 303's attract collectors and can be spendy but I would not want one for shooting. In 30-30 I would take a Marlin any day.

DEP

[Maximumbob54]

I would have been selling blood for a $400 99. One in either .300 or .30-30 would please me to no end.

[Geezer in NH]

Collector piece it is not!! drilled for scope mounts nope it is a shooter IMHO I have owned over 100 99's. All are gone but drilled and tapped are shooter. At the price offered you missed the buy. Tang peep is $150 minimum. that makes it $250 invested and in todays market I would expect a $200 profit after the sight. Just look at the droolers here.

[blixen01]

Ha. Ha. Sorry, it just didn't do it for me. Call it karma. The rifle didn't feel right. And I don't have the time or inclination to buy a gun to make a profit.

I'll keep looking for a sav. 99 in 300 sav. that feels "right." Meanwhile, I'll console myself by shooting my old 1902 win. 94 and Marlin 336 more. And keep looking for a sav. 99 in 300 sav. that feels "right."

I might put the $400 towards making one of them a 38-55.

[clum553946]

If it doesn't feel right to you, you did right to pass on it. It is a good deal & someone, perhaps a forum member, will be happy with it!