removing wording on a ruger pistol barrel

[cheese1566]

I dont think mine turned out too bad. I draw filed, then "buffed" with various strips of wet/dry paper like I shining shoes.
Then sandblasted with 100 garnet, then cerakote.

[GrantA]

Nice work cheese!

[Whiterabbit]

well, got it done. First true draw filing. I used a fine file which was technically a mistake because it took a very long time to do. But no worries about going too deep, THAT is for sure.

You were all right. Can't tell visually.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

If you have a lathe turn a brass rod, the first inch to land diameter and another three inches or so large enough to be a light driving fit in the rifling. Then drive the barrel onto that rod, keeping it in place in the lathe if you aren't sure of the concentricity of your chuck, although the use of a collet should ensure it. You now have the barrel centred on the bore, and if the first touch of the tool is on one side only, you have the chance to do it better than Ruger did. For some revolvers the Browells (or occasionally ordinary Unified) barrel threading die makes a good lathe fixture instead, but for the Blackhawk that is an expensive item.

Then when you are finished, check that the brass rod enters the muzzle. If it is looser there, you have a good lap for working on the tightening of the bore in the barrel thread area, which is sometimes found in Rugers.

If you have to do it by hand, drill a hole fractionally larger than barrel diameter in a piece of aluminium or hard plastic. The less smooth the hole, the better. Cut it longitudinally to make a half-round trough, then use it with abrasive paper, starting with very coarse, and there is little chance of producing flats.

[Whiterabbit]

It's a non issue unless you have two left thumbs. Feathering out with the file and using gravity (rather than pressure) to do the cutting when drawfiling produces no visual effect unless you are looking straight down the muzzle and studying. Once the EJRH is back on, I bet even that won;t be visible.

Since I had to recut the crown, I put it back on the lathe and reindicated it. For grins I checked the outside while I was at it. My Ruger instruction manual was cut DEEP (as far as I can tell), and at the end of the day I am only out of round by .005". you can feel it with the lathe turned on, but not when spinning the barrel in your hand.

My conclusion is that draw filing is a very effective way to remove the ruger stamp. Dunno if I would do it on a rifle barrel, but it's really a non-issue on a pistol barrel.