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View Poll Results: When making .22LR jackets when do you anneal?

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  • I anneal BEFORE de-rimming.

    14 18.67%
  • I anneal AFTER de-rimming.

    54 72.00%
  • I anneal BEFORE & AFTER de-rimming.

    5 6.67%
  • I NEVER anneal.

    2 2.67%
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Thread: Your method for .22LR jacket de-rimming & annealing

  1. #21
    Boolit Master BlackoutBuilder's Avatar
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    Thanks. Pm sent. Great customer service and support.
    NFA = Not Freaking American

    It would be less disrespectful to burn the flag than to put a thin blue line through the middle of it.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master tiger762's Avatar
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    That will happen in most if not all un-annealed brass. If you run the seated core/jacket into the point form die *** end first, the resulting FMJ style will not have this problem. I've been making a bunch of 62gr FMJ lately. No annealing necessary.

    http://i.imgur.com/xvhtpg0.jpg



    Quote Originally Posted by BlackoutBuilder View Post
    When I forgot to anneal, the noses would fold over themselves in the point forming step.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master BlackoutBuilder's Avatar
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    I made fmj as well, however, I got the worst accuracy of any bullet design I have ever used. I think they were just blowing the jackets off the cores, as I was only getting a couple hits on paper at only 25 yards with an AR. I was running quarter sized groups all day that day except for those fmj.
    NFA = Not Freaking American

    It would be less disrespectful to burn the flag than to put a thin blue line through the middle of it.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master BlackoutBuilder's Avatar
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    If you place a 4mm stainless steel ball bearing on the core, then point form, you get a nice little hunting round. You don't need to anneal those either.

    Id love to see it in transparent ballistics gel and it would e cool to see it it would penetrate a vest.
    NFA = Not Freaking American

    It would be less disrespectful to burn the flag than to put a thin blue line through the middle of it.

  5. #25
    Boolit Bub juan916's Avatar
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    I have made some FMJ with my BTSIMPLE kit havent shot any yet though Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #26
    Boolit Mold
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    Lovely, my attempts always split and fold. What temperature and time do you use to anneal the cases. I do have a heat treatment furnace and would like to have specific data. Thx Mark

  7. #27
    Boolit Master



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    Something is missing, could there be a problem with the dies or punches??
    Haven't seen to much info on the die's, mostly procedures as well as certain cases that don't work well. I'm not familiar with 22 conversions only .308 and .458 from sacrificial casings, most of my problems have arisen from ever so slight punch adjustments.
    Reason being there has been some unfavorable reports about ebay 22 dies in diameter as well as punch's.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master

    Hickory's Avatar
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    I have a toaster oven that I partially anneal my brass before deriming.
    A lot of people think that NO annealing takes place on brass until it reaches 600 degrees, but in truth it starts at around 450 degrees. And at close to 500 degrees a partial annealing takes place and seems to be the best temperature. Hold at this temperature for 30-35 minutes.

    You don't want to over do it then you will run into problems when you put the nose on your bullet. What happens if your brass is to soft the side walls or shank will collapse and you will end up with varying lengths of your bullet.
    The side walls need to be strong enough to keep from collapsing.

    After I derim my "jackets" I do the real and necessary annealing to the mouth of the jacket. This is where the most movement of the brass takes place. The brass needs to be pliable in order to keep the nose from folding over on itself.
    The picture below shows how I have been doing this. I have since up graded the procedure, but it is basically the same,
    You want a nice uniform anneal on the mouth of the case so that it draws down evenly.

    I have tried all the methods listed above and this IS the best way of doing it.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Hickory; 11-05-2017 at 01:18 PM.
    Political correctness is a national suicide pact.

    I am a sovereign individual, accountable
    only to God and my own conscience.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master

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    Thanks for the picture Hickory, but what am I seeing?

    Is it a .223 case chucked in the drill, then your jacket partially exposed in the mouth, Then you never touch the flame to the jacket but just hold it close?

    If so, do you have a stop inside the case for uniform exposure?

    Is the jacket loose enough in the case mouth to just dump out when annealed?
    To lazy to chase arrows.
    Clodhopper

  10. #30
    Boolit Master

    Hickory's Avatar
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    What you are seeing is a 4" long brass rod 3/8" in diameter with a hole in the end (depth & diameter will have to be measured, I can't tell you off the top of my head) to hold the jacket. The angle of the drill is set to swing in front of the flame when the drill starts turning, it turns for 4 seconds and the jacket falls into the coffee can.





    Addendum: The diameter of the hole drilled into the end of the 3/8" rod is 0.250"
    The depth of the 1/4" hole is 0.272"
    Last edited by Hickory; 11-06-2017 at 12:42 PM.
    Political correctness is a national suicide pact.

    I am a sovereign individual, accountable
    only to God and my own conscience.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master

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    That's pretty creative.
    To lazy to chase arrows.
    Clodhopper

  12. #32
    Boolit Buddy
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    If just annealing the mouth works for you, go,for it but you will have no issues if you anneal the whole jacket! I agree that at 500 deg C annealing is taking place and I only go to 550deg C for 20 minutes. The jacket is not dead soft and it does not need to be. It is soft enough to squash with the fingers but strong enough to make longer jackets which have little supporting lead cores. I will do a thousand at a time. If making 17 cal, I derim, then anneal and then draw and trim in a draw trim die. No issues shoot great.
    Bill
    The bloke out in the field is always right until proven otherwise.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master

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    The temperature scale I'm using is F, if you are using C that will translate into 932 F. Way too much for my needs.
    I'll bet they glow red.
    Last edited by Hickory; 11-07-2017 at 06:13 PM.
    Political correctness is a national suicide pact.

    I am a sovereign individual, accountable
    only to God and my own conscience.

  14. #34
    Boolit Master BlackoutBuilder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by juan916 View Post
    I have made some FMJ with my BTSIMPLE kit havent shot any yet though Click image for larger version. 

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    You're gonna blow the jackets off those. They don't work. In fact those were the most in accurate bullets I've ever built, however every other design out of the BT simple set that I've made and I've tried many, about a dozen, have worked beautifully. In fact the ones that are made the way they are supposed to be made are amazing.
    NFA = Not Freaking American

    It would be less disrespectful to burn the flag than to put a thin blue line through the middle of it.

  15. #35
    Boolit Master BlackoutBuilder's Avatar
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    You can put the Derimmed shells in a lee lead melting pot cover it with tinfoil and let it sit for about five minutes. Make sure there's no lead in the pot
    NFA = Not Freaking American

    It would be less disrespectful to burn the flag than to put a thin blue line through the middle of it.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check