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View Poll Results: When making .22LR jackets when do you anneal?

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  • I anneal BEFORE de-rimming.

    14 18.67%
  • I anneal AFTER de-rimming.

    54 72.00%
  • I anneal BEFORE & AFTER de-rimming.

    5 6.67%
  • I NEVER anneal.

    2 2.67%
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Thread: Your method for .22LR jacket de-rimming & annealing

  1. #1
    Boolit Man pertnear's Avatar
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    Your method for .22LR jacket de-rimming & annealing

    Despite the excellent best-practice tutorials on sticky's I still found various opinions on when to anneal when making .22 RF cases into jackets. I don't know if there are enough RF jacket makers to do a good survey, but I thought a poll might be interesting.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    I have had a lot of issues when annealing before. I only anneal after at this point

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    runfiverun's Avatar
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    I tried before and all I done was rip the rims off the cases.
    take the rim off first, then anneal later.
    I have even waited until I had formed the bullet completely, then annealed just the front portion [1/3] of the bullet.
    it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

    this opinion brought to you by mister low-tech solution..

  4. #4
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    I have tried both ways. This always worked best when I annealed first. This is in conflict with what many others say.
    n.h.schmidt

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

    Hickory's Avatar
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    I have listed my method for preparing 22 rimfire cases and have been, as much as told by some that I didn't know **** from shineola.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    They are good enough for shooting prairie dogs at 300 yards.
    Political correctness is a national suicide pact.

    I am a sovereign individual, accountable
    only to God and my own conscience.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    I think you will find after to be the most prominent.
    "Consequently we move away from other shooters to remain focused on our passion, as our ideas are quickly dismissed or misunderstood by others. Sharing does not come easily for swagers, not because they are necessarily selfish, but because they have been whittling away in their only little world for so long, that being able to relate to others what they understand is no simple task."

    ​Mentor



  7. #7
    Boolit Man pertnear's Avatar
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    I remember someone, I think on this forum, that said he never annealed. Thought that was interesting & I was wondering about his technique & results.

    Maybe I was dreaming...


  8. #8
    Boolit Bub
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    After.
    i have had poor results with annealing before, although it may have just been that batch, however after is now when I anneal.

  9. #9
    Boolit Mold
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    Personally I have done both.
    I found that derimming before annealing works well.
    Annealing before derimming means I can remove 1 cleaning tumble from the process (anneal dirty cases) however I found that I needed a slightly smaller punch to stop the cases sticking.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    After is normally best, but if your punch to die clearance is greater you won't pop the heads out and the forming will be slightly easier. My set up prefers annealing after de-rimming.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master fredj338's Avatar
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    I followed the experts opinion on this, BT said after, so I anneal after. I've only done about 1500 jackets, but not a single tear thru while swaging. Seems right to me.
    EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
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  12. #12
    Boolit Master tiger762's Avatar
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    If you anneal before derimming, be prepared to have brass stick to the punch and blown out rims. If using a swage press with properly adjusted die, the process goes smooth, notwithstanding the work hardened brass. Yep, that's two cleanings..

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
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    This is an ongoing debate and we all have an opinion. I have done both and had the issue of soft cases sticking to the punch or getting many push throughs. ( A smaller punch may have worked better). I ended up always doing it after derimming. But...... Latley I have been derimming u annealed winchester brass and there were some push throughs but more annoying was the slight tears and cracks that appeared in the rim area. I have found that the Winchester brass seems to be a bit harder lately. I was not going to die wondering, so I conducted an experiment.
    I know that my .22LR brass will be annealed at 550 dec C if left in my kiln for 10 minutes.
    After some trial and error I found that if the kiln is set to 440Deg C the .22LR brass will be partially annealed. When this partially annealed brass is derimmed it is easier to derim and there are no tears or cracks in the rim area. They also did not stick to the punch as there was still some spring back, I could still achieve the final diameter of .224 when point forming in a 1E corbin die. Down side was when point forming in a 6S Corbin die the points did not form well when compared to fully annealed cases.
    If I partial anneal, I clean the case before derimming and then again after the anneal. This is an extra step but I have found that there are very few fliers in the groups so it may be worth the effort to eliminate the flaws in cases caused by derimming.
    At the end of the day, whatever works for you, stick to it, but never be afraid to experiment.

    Bill
    Last edited by Bills Shed; 04-05-2016 at 05:25 PM. Reason: Updated to correct detail
    The bloke out in the field is always right until proven otherwise.

  14. #14
    Salty Dog

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    I had the exact same issues with punching through the back end of the brass when I annealed first.
    I'm running the derimming on a pneumatic press, which has a lot of oomph. It has enough power to push the brass through the derimming die easily.

    Quote Originally Posted by runfiverun View Post
    I tried before and all I done was rip the rims off the cases.
    take the rim off first, then anneal later.
    I have even waited until I had formed the bullet completely, then annealed just the front portion [1/3] of the bullet.


    NRA Life Member
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  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    GONRA has home made CH Swag-O-Matic dies to do this.
    Use STP Oil Treatment for die lube. Slather it on.....
    Fired .22 LR Lapua COPPER cases (ammo sold waaay back in 1960's?) "dehead" the best.
    .22 WMR BRASS cases dehead OK (100% yield) after annealing.
    Last edited by GONRA; 04-11-2016 at 04:44 PM.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hickory View Post
    I have listed my method for preparing 22 rimfire cases and have been, as much as told by some that I didn't know **** from shineola.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    They are good enough for shooting prairie dogs at 300 yards.
    Wow, those are fantastic looking! Who's dies are you using? Do you anneal before or after?

  17. #17
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by 6622729 View Post
    Wow, those are fantastic looking! Who's dies are you using? Do you anneal before or after?
    I have a Corbin outfit.
    Mity-mite press and die to fit the press.
    I've been making these since 1981.
    I know what works for me.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Political correctness is a national suicide pact.

    I am a sovereign individual, accountable
    only to God and my own conscience.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master BlackoutBuilder's Avatar
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    I anneal after derimming, in a lead pot. Only takes 5 or 10 minutes for several hundred rounds. Just cover the top with aluminum foil to keep the heat in. The problem I'm having is that Im still breaking about every 7 cases , so it takes forever, and is most frustrating.
    NFA = Not Freaking American

    It would be less disrespectful to burn the flag than to put a thin blue line through the middle of it.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master BlackoutBuilder's Avatar
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    When I forgot to anneal, the noses would fold over themselves in the point forming step.
    NFA = Not Freaking American

    It would be less disrespectful to burn the flag than to put a thin blue line through the middle of it.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackoutBuilder View Post
    I anneal after derimming, in a lead pot. Only takes 5 or 10 minutes for several hundred rounds. Just cover the top with aluminum foil to keep the heat in. The problem I'm having is that Im still breaking about every 7 cases , so it takes forever, and is most frustrating.

    You shouldn't be experiencing so may breaking threw the base. I sent you a PM, we will get you back on track.

    BT
    When you stop learning you are dying.

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    Good shooting and swage on!

    Brian

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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
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