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Thread: Rod for Driving a slug - needed one for 9mm

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Rod for Driving a slug - needed one for 9mm

    So I needed to reslug my SAXD 9 Sub Compact and my 5/16" brass rod was nowhere to be found. One of my Hobbies is Ham Radio so I just happen to have some lengths of 1/4" dia. solid fiberglass rods which were used to make beam antennas. cut off a 5" length ,chucked it up in a hand drill and used coarse sand paper to turn it down to be a sung fit in a fired .25APC case ( from one of my misc. brass boxs) ,taped cases on both ends.

    Lubed up a unsized cast dia. .358" 125gr. LRN and bumped it thru like it was nothing. Turns out it slugged to 0.3552 which is what I remembered from doing this two years ago but sometimes I get a bit confused . My mind is like a steel trap , old and rusty.
    Last edited by Case Stuffer; 05-07-2015 at 01:00 PM.
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  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
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    That rod was a good idea. The brass caps eliminate the problems due to it being fiberglass.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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    "My mind is like a steel trap , old and rusty."
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  4. #4
    Boolit Master



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    Great fix
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  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Even better than fiberglass is a short piece of Delron.. I have been using these for starting slug 5"-6" into bore..once started doesn't take much to move slug thru. Most plastic supply places will have a stash of odds and ends for sale.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by .22-10-45 View Post
    Even better than fiberglass is a short piece of Delron.. I have been using these for starting slug 5"-6" into bore..once started doesn't take much to move slug thru. Most plastic supply places will have a stash of odds and ends for sale.
    Did you mean "Delrin"? I use Delrin for many applications......machines beautifully, tough as nails and always has a smooth, slick surface.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Lubed up a unsized cast dia. .358" 125gr. LRN and bumped it thru like it was nothing.
    I bet it did. High rigidity and low weight. When I pounded out a bore obstruction, I used a wood dowel, which worked fine. But I tried my 3 lb sledge, first, and that didn't get me anywhere. Too heavy, too slow. I think I would have damaged my bench or twisted my revolver into a pretzel before the bullet moved. I guess, if I had smacked it hard/fast enough, I could have gotten the bullet out with one single swing and maybe even had some muzzle velocity on the slug! Tap, tap, tap, with a 14 oz hammer, and no problem. The bullet moved a little with each tap, and it was out in no time.

    Similar to the difference I had with the hammers, I think the light weight of the fiberglass rod would help transmit the force to the bullet more instantaneously, rather than a heavy rod more slowly getting up to speed and allowing more of the momentum to transfer to the barrel/gun before the static friction of the bullet was overcome.
    Last edited by gloob; 05-15-2015 at 06:30 PM.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    "I got a mind like a sieve and I dont like to strain it" OR "Dont let your mind wander it's too small to be out by itself"

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    Ok, then. When it comes to a squib rod:

    Light and incompressible/inelastic = good.
    Heavy and compressible/elastic = bad.

    Think of it like this. You can pull the table cloth out from under a plate all quick-like, without moving the plate. That's a light rod with fast blows with a light hammer. Or you can pull the table cloth slowly and make the plate fall off the table. That's the heavy rod with slow blows from a heavy hammer.
    Last edited by gloob; 05-16-2015 at 06:42 PM.

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