Hollywood Automatic Shotshell Reloader

[beeser]

xxxxx

[LUBEDUDE]

The Hollywood Automatic Shotgun Reloader is rare. In my opinion there were probably only between 100-200 of these made. And really that is a very liberal estimate and should lean towards the low side. Because of this I believe the base loader, even in poor condition missing parts may be worth a start at $500 and may go as high as $1000.

Condition, parts, and options are everything. The more you have, the more it's worth!

[beeser]

Thanks for responding LUBEDUDE! The Hollywood shown in the picture looks great, a far cry from the condition of the one I saw. Did you restore this yourself or did you find it in that condition?

[LUBEDUDE]

I only had to clean it up. I also elected not to reinstall the auto actuator for the powder and shot. It was not made right and needs significant mods beyond my capabilities. It is a different actuator than the one shown on the other site that you posted on. Hollywood made two different auto actuators.

I only knew of one guy on that other site that had any actual experience with the Hollywood Automatic. And I believe he moved out of the country a few years ago. I forgot his name. So it doesn't surprise me that no one knew anything. They are great with the modern shotgun loaders though.

Best to you on your acquisition. I hope that you can acquire it at a fair price. Please post before and after pics!

[Tracvision]

Thats a nice lookin' auto Lube. I'll be out your way in a week or two.

[LUBEDUDE]

Thats a nice lookin' auto Lube. I'll be out your way in a week or two.

Thank you.

Be sure to give me a shout!

[HGS]

Lube

Again, you have made me drool over a Hollywood Loading Press. Having to buy a new keyboard every time you post new pictures is getting expensive.

Congrads to both of you on your taste in loading tools.

HGS

[LUBEDUDE]

Lube

Again, you have made me drool over a Hollywood Loading Press. Having to buy a new keyboard every time you post new pictures is getting expensive.

Congrads to both of you on your taste in loading tools.

HGS

HGS - Thank You, that is quite a compliment coming from the "King" of Hollywood collections and displays!

[beeser]

.... Best to you on your acquisition. I hope that you can acquire it at a fair price. Please post before and after pics!

I finally acquired the Hollywood Automatic. Here it is in its present condition. Any suggestions on restoring it besides a good soaking of penetrating oil?

Attachment 143407

[beeser]

After only a cursory look so far at the Hollywood Automatic I'm even more intrigued by its design. This is the first reloading press I've seen that uses gears to index the shell plate. The gears alone in this thing would probably cost more to manufacture than an entire MEC single stage press.

[LUBEDUDE]

Congrats on your acquisition!

If not found locally, go to Amazon and get some Evapo-Rust. Unless you need penetrating oil to get the dies and other parts off. Applying heat and tapping with a hammer works well also for removal of stubborn threads.

[flashhole]

I want to follow this thread. More pics during the refurb please.

[beeser]

I looked into the Evapo-Rust but didn't like some of the reviews it got. Apparently it leaves a coating on the steel instead of just removing the rust. I tried the electrolysis method a few days ago on an old and very rusty arbor press and was very impressed with the results. After only a few hours all of the rust was gone and the slimy black stuff that remained easily came off with a wire brush and clean water. I may use this method on the press. I have it soaking in PB Blaster for now. As it turned out the rust isn't as bad as the picture shows. It's only light surface rust without any pitting. I'm going to give it a little more thought and put a plan of action together before starting the restoration.

[Tracvision]

I looked into the Evapo-Rust but didn't like some of the reviews it got. Apparently it leaves a coating on the steel instead of just removing the rust. I tried the electrolysis method a few days ago on an old and very rusty arbor press and was very impressed with the results. After only a few hours all of the rust was gone and the slimy black stuff that remained easily came off with a wire brush and clean water. I may use this method on the press. I have it soaking in PB Blaster for now. As it turned out the rust isn't as bad as the picture shows. It's only light surface rust without any pitting. I'm going to give it a little more thought and put a plan of action together before starting the restoration.

Beeser, Just wondering how your restoration is progressing. For the base pedestal, I use PB Blaster and 600 wet. Work it like a shoe shine. The HW metal usually comes back to life like new.

[flashhole]

Yeah, we need some recent pics. I hope you get it back to like-new condition.

[beeser]

I haven't made much progress in the restoration except to remove the light surface rust with PB Blaster and some 0000 steel wool on the column. I was surprised how much of the rust just wiped away and as mentioned before there was no pitting even on the bare steel column. I'll eventually tear it all down and clean it up better but haven't had the time lately. It's truly an interesting machine and well made. The only mechanical disappointment I've discovered so far has to do with the indexing of the shell plate, which is accomplished by a simple T-post and cam. Since the indexing also moves 3 gears there is enough force required that the T-post and cam action gets a bit gritty. I would've been happier had there been a couple of roller bearings where the two make contact. I think that would smooth things out. I haven't been able to get the hulls to drop automatically yet. The slide doesn't move enough to clear the hull. That needs to be worked on. And I haven't tried the wad and card dispenser yet. I'll post again when more progress is made.

[Bent Ramrod]

The "coating" left on the metal by Evapo-Rust is pretty easily removed just by judicious application of a fine wire brush. It seems to be more a layer of loosened, stabilized rust than something generated by the Evapo-Rust itself.

The great thing about Evapo-Rust is that you can pile the rusty parts in a bucket, fill it with the liquid and leave the stuff with no worries about evaporation and filling the garage with fumes, like Liquid Wrench and other organic solvents do. As long as the parts are under the liquid, they are protected from after rusting, and this protection is afforded even if the part is exposed, as long as the Evapo-Rust isn't washed off. Meanwhile, it is working while you are doing something else. Then wiping with steel wool, light hand brushing with a fine wire brush, or even wiping with rags under a garden hose, will get you down to clean metal.

I've found the stuff can be reused until it is an opaque rust color. Then it can be disposed of like soapy water, because it's advertised as being Environmentally Correct. I have no connection with the company, and generally regard Environmentally Benign products as being more effective at Saving the Planet than doing the job they are purchased for, but Evapo-Rust is definitely an exception to the general rule.

It will loosen the remains of the original paint on the part, along with the rust, however. If you don't want to lose any original finish, some other method of rust removal is indicated.

[BACK]

I have to say you have found one of the best shot shell loaders ever built. I have several shot shell loaders and the one I enjoy using the most is my Hollywood Automatic. I have not used the card wad dispenser for years but do use the plastic wad insertion dies successfully. I have loaded thousands of rounds on the old Hollywood and simply love using it. Oh, by the way the serial number on mine is 118. I would love to see more pictures of your rebuild and if I can help in any way let me know.

[beeser]

I have to say you have found one of the best shot shell loaders ever built. I have several shot shell loaders and the one I enjoy using the most is my Hollywood Automatic. I have not used the card wad dispenser for years but do use the plastic wad insertion dies successfully. I have loaded thousands of rounds on the old Hollywood and simply love using it. Oh, by the way the serial number on mine is 118. I would love to see more pictures of your rebuild and if I can help in any way let me know.

I'm unfamiliar with the "plastic wad insertion dies" used on the Automatic. How does that work?

The number stamped onto mine is 228.

[BACK]

The plastic wad insertion dies for the Hollywood loader, to the best of my knowledge, is one of two options. The first one offered as an addition to the original tool and was two dies; one the opened to case mouth out round and the second station was a open top die with a wad guide inside to allow manual insertion of a plastic wad by hand. this was not the fastest approach but it woks and I have loaded thousands of rounds this way. The second option was a conversion offered by Hollywood that allowed automatic, well kind of automatic, insertion of plastic wads but required the option ordered at the time of build or shipping your entire press back to Hollywood for the conversion. The original presses were designed for loading shot shells with fiber wads as I am sure you know. later in the game plastic wads became the standard and have remained so until quite recently. I am told fiber wads are making a slight come back for some shooting and can be purchased on a limited basis. In my opinion fiber wads are the best option for the Skeet range and most Sporting Clays. The fiber wad allows the choke in the gun bore to act in the shot column where the plastic wads seem to negate the choke's effect to some extent.