Anyone made their own bullet sizing dies?

[BCRider]

I'm looking to make a couple of bullet sizing dies that will operate in a manner similar to the Lee push through dies for sizing my cast bullets. These would be used for sizing my cast bullets down to suit my .38-55 rolling block and Uberti 1885 that both seem to require .377 size boolits.

I've got the Lee push through sizers for .358 and .427 to use for my cast revolver and lever rifle boolits. But they don't make a .377 size.

My plan is to order up some 7/8 threaded rod for the main body just because it's so convenient to go with that as an option. Then I'll bore it for the pass through size and the seating area for a press fitted sizing insert. The sizing insert would be made from drill rod machined close to the final size, then hardened and tempered, press fitted to the threaded outer holder and finally lapped and polished out the last half to full thou to the size I want.

Does that fit in with anything anyone here has done already?

[firebrick43]

I personally would machine and lap the insert out side the die body. Make the OD a slip fit and use green locktite to retain it. Don't forget to ream/turn a slight taper on both sides.

[MarkP]

I have made size dies from GR5 7/8-14 bolts, without hardeded inserts. My fist die I made from a bolt was for a 38-55, I did not have the time to make a Star die. It has worked so some of my low volume and odd sized dies are made from 7/8" bolts.

[BCRider]

I personally would machine and lap the insert out side the die body. Make the OD a slip fit and use green locktite to retain it. Don't forget to ream/turn a slight taper on both sides.

That would not be a bad option either. One way or the other I'm not planning on any need for removing the insert at any point.

I have made size dies from GR5 7/8-14 bolts, without hardeded inserts. My fist die I made from a bolt was for a 38-55, I did not have the time to make a Star die. It has worked so some of my low volume and odd sized dies are made from 7/8" bolts.

I might just look at the idea of using 7/8 grade 8 bolts for this in that case. A local supplier carries bulk shelves of bolts. It's where I was thinking of getting the threaded rod from in any case. Mind you if this works out I plan on sizing a few thousand cast boolits with this die over the next few years.

[kfarm]

I think the ides of treaded rod isn't a good idea, the threads on the rod are cut loose, the bolt may be a better way to go. But to make it easy get a soft bolt say grade 2 or even a 5 and use a hardened insert for the sizer as firebrick said. Best yet if you don't have a lathe hone out an old Lee die you don't use. Or better yet PM buckshot, tell him what size and watch for Mr postman. You get what you want at a nominal fee.

[kfarm]

One of the very first thing I learned to do when I got my little 7*12 chicom lathe was to learn how to cut threads, 7/8" x14 threads. Its been a great addition to the loading hobby.

[BCRider]

Well, I've got the lathe. And threading isn't a problem but it's a little time consumning. But you're right, the threaded rod tends to be pretty loose. I'll take along a decent fitting nut from one of the dies and check that vs using bolts.

And the more I think about this the more I'm beginning to like the idea of a couple of set screws or even making the inserts thread into place. That way I can use one nice fitting 7/8" "mount" to handle a variety of inserts over a given size range.

[dikman]

I made a sizing die from an unused Lee die that was surplus to requirements. I heated it to red heat and let it cool first (to anneal it) then turned it to size in the lathe. I didn't bother trying to harden it again, works fine on my range scrap boolits.

I've also made a couple of wad-cutting dies from 7/8" threaded rod. Again, they work fine for my needs.

Your idea of replaceable inserts is an interesting one, but as you say, it would be very time consuming.

[jmorris]

I have for the first sizer I built. I designed it so the die is installed flush with the plate, shouldered on the bottom and held in place with a set collar.

This is how it works.



This is the bottom where the set collar is holding the die.



Bore (or ream) and turn the bar stock and turn the shoulder then I Mae a lead in with a tapered reamer.

[GLL]

I just call Buckshot !
He makes outstanding LEE-style push through dies that are very reasonable.



Jerry

[country gent]

I have made sizer dies for use in reloading presses and they are more involved that some realize. Any sharp edges shear/shave lead off instead of sizing it down. Finish is critical in these so as not to "pull" lead on pass thru. Mine is made from 7/8 drill rod air hardened for the body. Mine has inserts that thread into the bottom of body for diifrent size boolits. I had originally planned on making it to use lyman H dies with out the ejector. They are doable and can be made quickly on a lathe. 3*-5* leade angle in to the actual sizing ring ( the sizing ring in my inserts is 1/4" - 1/2" long depending on boolit they are for. then 1*-2* to clearence dia. Hone or lap to size with slow rotation and fast feed back and forth with wet dry paper then patches and simichrome or flitz metal polish. When doing final finish you want the lines to cross over and looj like figure 8s inside the die. Another option that is available and saves alot of work is using pre hardened 4140 or 7/8 14 allen head bolts. Make sure the pushers end is flat and square a couple thousadths under bullt dia with no sharp edges or heavy radiouses. Maybe set it up like a primer seater with a sliding cup and light spring tension to easily alighn bullet.

[BCRider]

Country Gent, that's some gold info for the home sort or solution I'm after. And it certainly falls in line with the sort of shaping I was thinking at first. And then I made the mistake of looking at the Lee sizers. The leade into the sizing throat on the Lee dies is sharply angled and very abrupt. If they don't shear off any lead like you say I'd be highly surprised. I'll be making frequent use of the .427 sizer to crush down .430 size bullets to use in my 1866 Uberti Yellow Boy. I slugged the bore and it needs the smaller size ! ! !

It's great that Buckshot is supplying many of you. But I actually enjoy tinkering in the shop at this stuff.

Jmorris, that's an amazing setup. But perhaps a bit over the top for my needs....

[jimofaz]

For my Lee-type push through sizers, I used 7/8-14 all thread rod cut into about 3" lengths IIRC, then:

*faced off square ea. end in a collet lathe
*rough thru-drilled to a size a bit larger than the intended sizing diameter. This provided clearance for the sized bullet to freely move up thru the top half of the die as each new bullet is introduced.
*5/8" drilled in from one end to accept a 5/8' OD hardened drill bushing. I bought these from McMaster-Carr in a headed style and as long a one as I could get (up to 1 1/2" long), with an ID closest to my finished desired size as possible. These were pressed into the rough drilled hole, sometimes needing a light touch of epoxy or superglue to keep them there. if I wanted a flat-bottomed hole I either used a flat-bottomed drill to finish or a bottom cutting end mill to remove the rough drilled point taper. A non-headed drill bushing sizing insert would probably work as well.
* back into the 7/8" collet to cut a 1 degree leade-in taper to the drill bushing with a brazed carbide tipped boring bar and a slow feed rate. Sharp cutter tip worked better than a radiused tip for this.
*opened up ID some if needed, then lapped to size with a expandable Helical Lap & Clover compound.
*Push-thru punch turned from tool & die 'stripper' bolts we had laying around, but practically speaking any steel round stock of the appropriate diameter would work for this.

Labor of love, especially when you could order one from Lee or better yet Buckshot for relatively low cost. But, I sure do miss having access to that little Hardinge toolroom lathe these days.

One last comment. I allowed both punch & size die to 'float', without need for a lock nut on the die body. I found no negative results from using the loose tolerance all-thread. Your sized bullets will tell you if you did it right by slowly spinning them in you fingers and observing the visible run out. They can also be spun under an indicator if you have the set-up for that. There is no doubt in my mind that, with a proper leade-in, this type of nose-first sizing will deliver a superior sized cast boolit. What made me get into making these sizers about 30 years ago was seeing the very visible out-of-round condition my Lyman & RCBS sizers sometimes yielded, with some bullet moulds. Easiest way to see this effect was on the top driving band. Slowly spinning the sized bullet would show a varying width in the driving band, looking like it went into the base-first Lyman/RCBS sizer off center. I have no experience with Saeco sizers, but my two STAR sizers have never exhibited this out-of-roundness my use of flat end punches and nose-first sizing/lubng.
jimofaz

[Yodogsandman]

Shhh! These will be out soon...

http://noebulletmolds.com/smf/index.php?topic=647.0

[nhrifle]

Take a look at the writeup Cane Man did on how he made his own bullet swaging dies. Start with a Lee case expanding die body that you can get from Lee or Titan Reloading, a 5/8-18 bolt, and some 9/16" drill rod of whatever flavor you would like. Cut a length of the drill rod, around an inch or so, face the ends, and machine the bore to suit your needs. Drill and bore the 5/8 bolt so the sized boolit will pass through and you are done. Make all the inserts you want, just unscrew the bolt and drop in a new insert and you are good to go. This is an easy project and making an insert only takes a few minutes, and they don't need to be hardened for sizing purposes. To make the machining easier, you could also use 12L14 which cuts like butter in my lathe.

[Elkins45]

I don't see a problem starting with threaded rod. The sizer dies should be self-aligning anyway.

[zuke]

I choose a LEE die smaller then what I need and polish it out with a bench top drill press and emery paper.

[BCRider]

OK, a little update on the progress so far. Which is slight.

I was down at the local bolt supplier and found that they just do not have any 7/8 UNF sizes. BUT! They did have lengths of Grade 5 threaded rod in fine thread for just a hair under $20 for a 3 foot length. The spare die nut I had brought along fit nicely with little play. So the maker's tolerances on this somewhat more premium grade rod are good. As a result I've got stock for any number of custom die options for the rest of my natural days.

I also like the idea of the threaded insert collar with suitable drill rod or high stress alloy steel inserts. As long as I can machine and ream for a good finish it's all good.

I need to get things ready for the big cowboy shoot coming up this weekend. And the new milling machine arrived and needs setting up. So this is likely going to turn out to be a bit of a longer term sort of project. But at least for anyone considering the same thing I can say for sure that the Grade 5'ish better quality fine threaded rod is a good fit for the thread.

And thanks for the replies posted since my last post. That one about the bolt to retain the sizing insert is a great one. I'll likely go with something along that line even if it ends up being my own made solution.

Zuke, for my .377'ish sizing needs Lee doesn't even have anything close. So your idea, which is a good one otherwise, won't work for my needs.

[zuke]

I'd use a 358 and polish it up with 100 grit. It's only 19 thou

[BCRider]

And lots of room to end up seriously out of round. Sorry Zuke but your answer suggests that you have not done a lot of metal machining. What you're suggesting would be very unlikely to work out. .019 is a lot of metal to remove without any real control if one wants the final product to be round within a half thou. A couple or maybe as much as three thou I'd go for polishing in a pinch. But more than that and you're just way too open for it to come out badly.