This Aussie has made one which is probably just about as simple as one can be.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e862MYQUj-Q
His final build ... with paint, and everything.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-C-i0Kr2jU
This Aussie has made one which is probably just about as simple as one can be.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e862MYQUj-Q
His final build ... with paint, and everything.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-C-i0Kr2jU
Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.
Used his plans to make one and love it. I added an additional guide to the left of the case feeder and it feeds every time.
Skippy's made a good job of developing the rotary pan annealer but he would be the first to tell you, the real kudos must go to this chap for the original concept.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=msgcZyYeTqM
It's real easy to copy and develop an idea but we shouldn't loose sight that it's that initial flash of inspiration that should be remembered and applauded.
Here's an example - here's a home build from 2013 with some good original features:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0TlctbLT3w
And here's an almost direct commercial copy (2015):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldENRhKLfiI
I think I would build the housing about 5" higher along with the "case hooper" that would allow for a single row of cases over the pickup wheel. This way it would pickup a case every time and not miss picking up a case every now and again.
Political correctness is a national suicide pact.
I am a sovereign individual, accountable
only to God and my own conscience.
It seems to me that the notched case feeder and the annealing drum both have to turn at the same speed ... one revolution per 'so many seconds'.
So, a single motor (which can be adjusted for the annealing speed) could turn the feeder and the drum, with them being ganged together to turn at a 1:1 ratio.
That eliminates one motor and one controller from the materials list, and only adds a drive belt and a couple of pulleys.
Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.
Sweet. Of course I'm too proud to copy that design.
smokeywolf
A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the People to keep and bear arms *shall not be infringed*.
"The greatest danger to American freedom is a government that ignores the Constitution."
- Thomas Jefferson
"While the people have property, arms in their hands, and only a spark of noble spirit, the most corrupt Congress must be mad to form any project of tyranny."
- Rev. Nicholas Collin, Fayetteville Gazette (N.C.), October 12, 1789
I think there's considerably more work with a single motor design - To keep the feed and the drum in sync you would need a toothed belt and sprockets or gears, which ever way you go you would need a sub-chassis with shafts and bearings.
With a two motor design the drum and feeder are both mounted directly on the gearbox stub as a self contained unit. The feeder, with a two motor set up, must be running slightly slower than the drum to prevent two cases eventually being fed together. If it's running a little slower it's not a problem to miss one every 10 or so revs.
The DC speed controllers are cheap, less than $5 including shipping.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-DC...item43d54c0636
I don't reload thousands of 223s so I'm going simpler and cheaper and building a manual version. Dropping the case isn't that hard, and your annealing about 6 a minute. If it works well, I might add the auto drum.
Got the parts to build one, just need the time.
Neat design.
Bill
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
The only thing wrong about that design is that it doesn't deal with the wide span of cases like the horizontal blade type annealer. I bought a 'blade' and assembled mine to handle 25-20 brass on the small end, and 50BMG brass on the big end. The difference is torch position and blade speed (soak time). I think it would be difficult to have a 'bowl' annealer that could handle both those cases without major mods. Short enough to handle the little guys, and the big boys will be unstable. Set for the big ones, and the small ones will be completely inside the bowl. I'll just keep hand feeding my cases into the cutouts and be happy that that's all I have to worry about.
"Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most." A. Brilliant
I was just on evilbay. I could only find 2 types of 12 volt power supply. Being elec. ignorant I need help deciding which is the correct one to use.
the 25 rpm motors I was looking at draw .098 amp.
12V 5A 60W AC to DC Adapter Power Supply for 5050 Flexible LED Light Strip 3528
- $7.97Trending at $9.94
- Buy It Now
- Free shipping
- 522 sold
New 12V DC 10A 120W Regulated Switching Power Supply for LED Strip Light
- $17.98
- or Best Offer
- Free shipping
- 748 sold
- FAST 'N FREE Get it on or before Tue, May. 5
First one should be more than enough, I'm planning to just use my battery charger as a power source if not just my 12V deep cycle battery that I use for my trap throwing machine.
Just the cheapest wall socket adapter will do. Even the voltage is not too critical so doesn't need to be regulated, 10-14 will be fine.
The PWM speed controllers take virtually no load and usually operate between 9-30 volts.
The little geared 12v motors again take very little load, will run well on anything from about 4v to 14v and will run several hours continuously off half a dozen pen cell batteries if needed. My machine has a .2 amp fuse in the main feed and not blown one yet.
6 seconds just like i do mine..... I use a socket and drill, I just count and watch the line. Works.
An auto annealer would have a use if you want to win a world record and are psycho about everything, or if you have many thousands to do....
Gets quite expensive if you just want to anneal your brass once in a while.
Last edited by kryogen; 05-02-2015 at 10:11 AM.
So a question for those with more motor control experience. My initial thoughts was why use two motors. The wheels should turn 1:1 rpm to function with the best efficiency. So I thought I would machine a second spindle and drive it with a small timing belt. Well I soon realized this would increase the cost over a second motor/speed controller.
So my question is can I use a single pwm controller (it has the amp capacity) and wire the motors with a y cable? If my rudimentary understanding of dc motor theory is correct it should work but may cause one motor to run slightly different speed. I thought by machining small grooves in the spindles an oring could "tie" the spindles together.
Are the plans available online? Looks like I can easily build this one
Plans can be found here: http://shootingaustralia.net/forum/r...er-black-betty
You have to register to see the drawings.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |