Effect of Bevel Base?

[alamogunr]

I have an H&G #244 WC. According to this reference:

http://www.hensleygibbs.com/molds/244.jpg

it is the H&G#50 w/o the button nose and has a bevel base. I have the H&G #50 and like it very much. I think I would like to use the #244 but am unsure what effect the bevel base would have. To a great extent, I judge my boolets by their sharp bases. At 700-800 fps, I would not expect the bevel base to cause leading. I suppose I could send the mold to Erik to remove the bevel base but would rather leave the mold in original condition.

What say the experts?

[Le Loup Solitaire]

I don't know if I fit in the expert league, but I have been using the H&G #251 for several years in a model 52 S&W. It has a bevel base. One of H&G's old catalogs states that there is/was a lot of pro and con controversy over the bevel. I have shot with the bevel from the beginning and it has performed very well for me. Sizing and lubing always left a ring of lube where the bevel is and when I got tired of it I had a machinist friend make a die to fit the bevel in my Saeco lubrisizer and the lube in the bevel was eliminated. You can of course have the bevel eliminated, but be sure that it is going to improve accuracy before you do it. You will hear/read a storm of why or why not to do it, but the call in the end will be yours. Since the beveled bullet did very well for me I never attempted to try anything else....nothing was broke so no sense in trying to fix anything, but opinions do vary. LLS

[kungfustyle]

From the looks of the mold try some up and some down see what shoots better. Bevels shoot OK, and are easier to load. Flat base can be more accurate. But from 7 to 25 yards its hard to tell off hand. Put it on a rest and you may notice a difference but not much. That mold is probably worth better than $100 or it was. Count your blessings and cast away.

[JSnover]

The question is do you need to remove it? I'd just shoot it. Removing the bevel may slightly improve accuracy but at what cost? If it keeps you up at night, sell it and buy a flat base mold.

[Outpost75]

An advantage of bevel-base molds is that they prevent dragging a "fin" off the base of the bullet when a throat-diameter revolver bullet which is necessary for proper fit and alignment, must be extruded into a tight groove diameter barrel which is much smaller, such as when shooting .358 wadcutters in Colt Officer's Model Match having .354 groove diameter. Bullets must fit throats to shoot.

Here is what .358 diameter bevel based wadcutters do off sandbags at 25 yards from my Colt.

Attachment 136854

[alamogunr]

Actually I forgot that I had this mold. I've been updating my records and found several molds that I had not entered into the spreadsheet. I'm going to try some forward and backwards. I've already tried that with the #50 after reading of others doing the same with wadcutters. No difference but they weren't bevel base.

[Frank V]

From the looks of the mold try some up and some down see what shoots better. Bevels shoot OK, and are easier to load. Flat base can be more accurate. But from 7 to 25 yards its hard to tell off hand. Put it on a rest and you may notice a difference but not much. That mold is probably worth better than $100 or it was. Count your blessings and cast away.

I agree 100%, after looking at the mould in your link alamogunr, I'd do just what kungfustyle suggests.
I'd load some upside down & some right side up & see which shoots the best. The only thing about the ones loaded upside down is they may not cut quite as sharp a hole in paper?
I have had a LOT of leading from some commercial cast .41 cal. 210gr SWCs with a pronounced bevel base. The bevel on these bullets was so pronounced that if they were rifle bullets we'd call them boattail bullets. I really prefer flat base bullets.

[alamogunr]

As I indicated in my OP, one thing I insist on when casting plain base boolits is sharp bases. I'm going to try loading both ways. Clean holes in paper is not a concern. I don't compete, just shoot. The way I shoot, I couldn't compete anyway.

I've got 2 revolvers I want to use this mold for. First is a S&W model 65/3" that has been set up for carry with a bobbed hammer. Next is a S&W Highway Patrolman/6". I haven't used this one much but want to because of the thread detailing 75K rounds of H&G #50.

The bevel on my mold is not all that pronounced. If I hold the velocity down, I hope leading won't be a problem but loading both ways may give me the answer.

[popper]

BB should not cause leading. It is somewhat self-centering when seating. It will somewhat eliminate finning when sizing down a lot - which makes seating tougher. It will make culling more difficult but with a soft alloy it won't make much difference - the base will get flattened by psi. Separate the good and bad, shoot to compare.

[bhn22]

I've used a number of bevel-base moulds in the past without issue. Some don't like them because of issues with the in and out sizers.

[Frank V]

I'd sure like to hear the results of seating your bullets both ways.
Thanks, I'm staying tuned.

[shooterg]

The same deal exists with the H&G 68's for 45's. Some swear by the flat base, some swear at it ! Me I'm using the 68BB in all the 1911's and I'm happy !

[bstone5]

I use bevel base bullet molds in my Master Caster have cast thousands and shot thousands in 14 different bevel molds.

All of the cast bullets are powder coated are or coated with the Hi-Tech coating from Bayou Bullets.

The molds run from a light 32 ACP bullet to 250 Grain 45 for the Long Colt.

No leading an a very clean barrel. After a lot of shoots.

[alamogunr]

I'd sure like to hear the results of seating your bullets both ways.
Thanks, I'm staying tuned.

I haven't cast any yet! It has warmed up and rained. The grass needs cutting and SWMBO wants the utility room painted including cabinets. I will report when I can.

[Frank V]

I haven't cast any yet! It has warmed up and rained. The grass needs cutting and SWMBO wants the utility room painted including cabinets. I will report when I can.

SWMBO he eh eh we're all probably there.
I'll wait!

[Dragonheart]

Back in the 1960's the H&G #68 SWC with a bevel base was the go to bullet for 50 yard Bullseye matches. I shoot thousands of powder coated bevel base 9 mm and 45 ACP bullets with no leading at all. Actually, I prefer a bevel base and have gotten rid of most of my straight molds and replaced them with bevel base. They load easier and they will function in my improvised bullet feeder on my Dillon 650. I also believe they are more accurate, but have never done a comparison.

[alamogunr]

I managed to get to the range for a short while this week. Although the primary purpose was to try out a new 5 shot .45 Colt custom, I also took some of the .38's loaded both ways. These were fairly light loads so may not be indicative of what to expect all the time.

I could tell no difference between the H&G 244 loaded normally and loaded backwards. Not a definitive test since I didn't have enough to determine if loading normally caused leading. Really got no leading from either. I can't comment on accuracy differences since results were about what I always get. Wish I had gotten serious about shooting handguns when I was much younger.

[WALLNUTT]

Cut a wad from a foam egg carton with a fired case to put under a bevel base bullet when sizing. No lube ring on the base. BB shoot fine.

[EdS]

The OP mentions wanting to load for two very different revolvers. It makes me want to ask if on average a load developed for maximum accuracy in, say, a 6" barrel revolver will also show equivalent accuracy (throats being the same diameter) in other revolvers??? -Ed

[cajun shooter]

The bevel base bullets will give problems with some powders and also with bad reloading habits from some users, like over expanding the case mouth and then not sealing the bullet correctly.
I've always had perfect results with the Speer 148gr. HBWC for shooting out to 50 yards in PPC matches.