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Thread: roof flashing lead what mix do i go with?

  1. #1
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    roof flashing lead what mix do i go with?

    30-30 rounds for a marlin 1949F

    I have 10 pds of roofing lead sheet, (for around pipes ext)

    I've been looking on rotometals

    but I'm confused as to what to buy to mix my lead with,

    Tin how much mix for 10 pounds lead ?

    antimony do i use it? how much for 10 pounds of lead ?

    IF I BUY a Super Hard Alloy Ingot (30% Antimony 70% lead)$19.99
    what would the mix be with my 10pounds of lead and how much tin do i buy?

    as you can see I'm confused and new
    all i know is i have 10 pounds of lead and need to buy the rest,,,so help on what to buy from rotometals would be helpful,

    thank you
    john

  2. #2
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    How hard do you need them?
    Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.

  3. #3
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    Yes how hard you want the final lead boolit to be determines what you need to add to what you have, which is essentially plain lead and pretty soft.

    First download the Lead Alloy Calculator from the sticky thread here. Will let you plug in your 10# of plain and calculate the results of you adding different alloys.

    Plain lead mixed 50/50 with LinoType yields Hardball which would be a pretty good alloy even for magnum or rifle use. Plain mixed 75/25 with LinoType would give you something fairly close to COWW's with 1.33% tin and 4% Sb as opposed to WW's typical 3% Sb and little tin. Should be hard enough for most uses with enough tin to cast well.

    You could get close to the same as 75/25 mix with 1.75 lbs. supper hard and 2 lbs. 10-1 solder. But it all depends on what you plan to make and how you load it. You could mix your 10# of plain with 10# of COWW from Swapping and Selling and shoot that out of revolvers at less than 1000 fps without much chance of an issue. don't know about how fast you push a 30-30 since I don't load those.

    Ok first post how hard you are going to push that 30-30 and if it is a gas checked boolit, then download the calculator which will work with OpenOffice if you don't have Microsoft Excel. Then you will get useful answers on what hardness you need for that bullet and start plugging stuff into the calculator.... Which is what I did to provide the numbers above. Like who is going to remember all that off the top of their head?
    Last edited by RogerDat; 04-11-2015 at 04:39 PM. Reason: Did not see the caliber when I first posted
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.

    Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.

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  4. #4
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    Download the FREE alloy calculator spreadsheet on here and ALL you questions (present AND future) will be answered in full.

    banger-j

  5. #5
    Boolit Master Yodogsandman's Avatar
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    A 50/50 COWW's+2%tin/pure lead roof flashing alloy will do whatever your 30-30 wants to. Use it air cooled and age hardened for 3 weeks for plinking or you can water drop/oven heat treat, age for 5 days for full velocity, bust a buck loads.

  6. #6
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    he doesn't know how hard he needs, that is part of his question.

    an alloy of 1% tin and 3% antimony [or thereabouts] water-dropped from the mold will give you good boolits for the 30-30.
    with a gas check and a decent fit you can push them near jacketed velocity's.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by runfiverun View Post
    he doesn't know how hard he needs, that is part of his question.

    an alloy of 1% tin and 3% antimony [or thereabouts] water-dropped from the mold will give you good boolits for the 30-30.
    with a gas check and a decent fit you can push them near jacketed velocity's.
    Lead bullets Matter

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  8. #8
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    I'd buy linotype. With pure lead and lino, you can easily make several common boolit alloys
    Ronald Reagan once said that the most terrifying words in the English language are: "I'm from the government and I'm here to help".
    Download my alloy calculator here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=105952

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by JSnover View Post
    How hard do you need them?
    I don't know,
    I'm new to this and was given the lead,
    I have a marlin 336 1949F with ballard grooves,
    I haven't bought the mold yet,

    Im looking for a subsonic load

    my lyman 49th calls for #2 alloy using the 311-291/311041 but haven't bought anything yet
    as I'm still asking questions here to learn so i don't waste money,
    i can't get Wheel weights in a 20 mile radius (somebody else is getting them-and the laws here have changed on lead)
    I want to just buy what i need to start from root-metals,to start,
    then as summer gets here and i get out more and make more contacts i can start scrounging
    even getting powder is rare up here, and i know I'm going to end up buying online and paying a god awful powder shipping fee
    seems like I'm 100.00 short and 10yrs too late getting into this

    but I've got tree rats and paper plates to shoot at

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yodogsandman View Post
    A 50/50 COWW's+2%tin/pure lead roof flashing alloy will do whatever your 30-30 wants to. Use it air cooled and age hardened for 3 weeks for plinking or you can water drop/oven heat treat, age for 5 days for full velocity, bust a buck loads.
    there isn't any COWW around here,

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by runfiverun View Post
    he doesn't know how hard he needs, that is part of his question.

    an alloy of 1% tin and 3% antimony [or thereabouts] water-dropped from the mold will give you good boolits for the 30-30.
    with a gas check and a decent fit you can push them near jacketed velocity's.
    so this would be 45grams of tin and 136grams of antimony in my 10pounds of lead, correct?
    what would the hardness of that be?

  12. #12
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    this is for shooting around 30-50yards, lots of trees here in maine, and the little buggers ate my garden last year,
    this year its coffee on the deck and the 30-30 as the sun comes up

  13. #13
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    At 30-50 yards, low velocity, pure lead would work. You can add 2-4% tin for better fill. I wouldn't bother with antimony if the 'little buggers' are small game. Even if they're deer, you won't need a hard boolit at that speed/distance because it might not expand.
    Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by runfiverun View Post
    he doesn't know how hard he needs, that is part of his question.

    an alloy of 1% tin and 3% antimony [or thereabouts] water-dropped from the mold will give you good boolits for the 30-30.
    with a gas check and a decent fit you can push them near jacketed velocity's.
    He also didn't say what he intended to do with them. Tree rats and paper plates really don't need tertiary alloys, gas checks or high velocity but he certainly maybes them if he wants to.
    Last edited by JSnover; 04-12-2015 at 10:46 AM.
    Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master Yodogsandman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 49FMarlin View Post
    this is for shooting around 30-50yards, lots of trees here in maine, and the little buggers ate my garden last year,
    this year its coffee on the deck and the 30-30 as the sun comes up
    Feeding them pretty good, huh! My son just got about a dozen of the big grey ones in town with conibear traps set on his friends roof. They chewed into his friends attic and made a mess! Neighbors were feeding them peanuts!

  16. #16
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    Keith swore by 16-1 and Bpcr shooters swear by 20-1 or 30-1, all are kinda soft and give good expansion without being brittle. 16-1 is a little rich these days with the high cost of tin. Higher speeds will require some hardening pref. with Linotype although it can make bullets brittle.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by bumpo628 View Post
    I'd buy linotype. With pure lead and lino, you can easily make several common boolit alloys
    ^^THIS^^ Lino gives you a pretty broad range mixed with pure lead.
    EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
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  18. #18
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    The roof flashings I have found were soldered together and when I tested an ingot, got a BHN of 7-8.
    I suppose it is the tin from the solder that raised the BHN
    He really needs a hardness tester.
    Without one, you are more or less just stumbling in the dark.
    The exception would be if just using wws, they seem to be all about BHN 11-14.
    drinks, NRA life, TSRA life, SAF life, CCRKBA, GOA, JPFO, CBA, Def-Con.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master rmcc's Avatar
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    I cast 3 to 1 WW to PB for my Lyman 311410 ( water quenched). Fills out good, drops in the 130 gr range. I size to .309 and lube with Orange Magic. Using 6 gr RedDot, I get about 1100 fps out of my 336. Not subsonic but accurate as all get out. Would make a dandy pest load. Except they really frown on shooting them here in town.

  20. #20
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    this is rolled up never used roof flashing, so it has never seen solder,

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check