Check out my vendors section:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?231-Andy-s-Slow-Rust-Blue
"As democracy is perfected, the office of the President represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day, the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be occupied by a downright fool and complete narcissistic moron."
H.L. Mencken
Great tutorial! Very similar to the method I learned from an old, when I was young, gunsmith. However, not having WD40, yes, it was a long time ago, his final step was more traditional. He heated the part up "till was 'bout to hot to hold" to open up the pores in the wood, and drive out any residual moisture, and rubbed it down good with boiled linseed oil. When it had cooled to room temperature the excess oil was removed with a soft cloth and the whole paper buffed with a soft cotton cloth. The linseed oil adds an extra luster and depth to the blue and an additional layer of protection.
YMMV
WHEELGUNNER
Looks a lot like my Rem 550-1; nicely done.
Thank you! She was my grandfather's and I got her 27 years ago.
"In God we trust, in all others, check the manual!"
I see Andy hasn't been on the board for a few months, but I would sure like to see his bluing formula offered again. Excellent stuff.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
Always used to use Pilkington's Rust Blue in the past, but thought I would give Andy's formula a chance and am glad I did. Although time consuming (as is any rust blue), the results were just as good as, if not better than Pilkington's.
Here's a picture of a model 12, 20ga that I received as a basket case that someone had welded on the receiver, the adjusting sleeve for the barrel was incorrect, and was missing the butt stock. Had to make a new adjusting sleeve, clean up the welded section of the receiver and re-blued (using Andy's formula), and refinish the wood (butt stock was from Boyd's, but finished to match the forearm). I think it turned out rather nice.
Here's a 1954 vintage Tokerav that was in such bad shape that I picked it up for a song. The pistol was rusty and the grips would not stay in place. Cleaned up the metal and re-blued (using Andy's formula), and modified a new set of grips that were secured by a screw rather than the internal cam.
Andy's formula get a thumbs up and one big "Atta boy" from me.
Last edited by Johnny_V; 08-19-2018 at 08:46 AM.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |