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Thread: Andy's Rust Blue thread WIP

  1. #1
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    Andy's Rust Blue thread WIP

    This thread is to show a step by step guide on how to rust blue some steel. It is a very forgiving process, but it is time intensive, so there is no instant gratification like the hot blue. If you persevere though, you will get the excellent results and a durable blue job that is rare to find nowadays on our mass produced firearms.

    Step one. Get your metal prepped by sanding down with progressively finer grades of sandpaper. The finest grade you would probably want to use is about 350-400 grit. Anything finer would be a waste of time, as the acid will etch your finely polished surface and bring a lot of that hard work back down to about a 350 grit polish. Hand polish your parts. Do not use the belt sander, ok?

    I would highly recommend using a sanding block for flats to keep the corners sharp. The direction of the sanding should be in the same direction, but it is not absolutely necessary to do so. TRY to get everything going in the same direction. I intentionally sanded in both directions to show that this is not critical to get good results, but MAY show up in the finish later.

    Just like painting, prep work makes the final result look fair, good, or great! The rusting process will eliminate most of your small imperfections in your sanding job, so don't worry too much if it doesn't shine like a mirror. Just get it sanded down as best as you can an eliminate any pitting or deep scratches, as these can be spotted when the job is finished

    For this exercise I will be using a small jewelers hammer that I picked up at a local pawn shop for 1.00
    Always start your first project on something that is cheap so you can gain confidence and get a feel for how it works. Long story short, don't get the Winchester 1873 family heirloom out of the safe yet!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    You will want to clean all traces of oil/wax/grease off of the part. The only problem I've ever had rust bluing a part was a rifle treated with silicone. That stuff is a nightmare to remove!

    I use regular dishwasher detergent to remove any oil from my parts. It has a high alkalinity and is made to be aggressive on grease. Rinse with plenty of hot water. Try to handle the part with bare hands as little as possible. Using gloves is recommended, but not absolutely necessary. (Did I mention that this process is extremely forgiving?

    To be continued...stand by...
    Last edited by andremajic; 08-16-2015 at 02:39 PM.
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    H.L. Mencken

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    Next we're going to lay out our supplies:

    Hair dryer or heat gun
    Wire to suspend object to avoid handling
    cotton swabs
    gloves
    hemostats (optional)
    eye dropper (optional)
    small container
    newspaper

    Ok, so what we're going to do is to keep from contaminating our big bottle of solution, we're going to pour out a small amount in a dish. A little goes a long ways. What you see in the pic is probably enough for a couple rifles, so you don't have to use as much as I did!

    By having it in the small dish, you can use an eye dropper to put some of the solution on your cotton swabs and hold it with the hemostats to avoid introducing oils from your skin. This prevents cross contamination if you decided to dump the remainder back into your main larger bottle.

    You could just wear rubber gloves, but I didn't have any on hand today, so I just handle the soaked cotton with the hemostats instead.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Pick up your object and heat it up nice and hot with your hair dryer or heat gun. Squeeze out excess solution from the cotton swab with a gloved hand and make long strokes up and down the part. You want the cotton swab wet, but not soaking wet.

    We're trying to avoid streaks, but don't worry too much if you get them, they will disappear and blend in with later applications.

    Here's a pic after the first application. Notice the color change from bright and shiny to a slightly blue/purple color?
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    Here's a closer pic:
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    Second application: get a new cotton swab and get it wet, squeeze out the excess and re-apply after heating your part with the heat gun:
    Notice how the color is deeper?
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    After a couple of times heating and applying the solution, you will start to approach some diminishing returns on the color, just make sure you continue applying heat and solution until you have a pleasing look, with little amounts of streaks as possible.
    A light touch is preferable to hard pressure, as you will rub off some of the previous layer if you are rough with it.

    Fourth application:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Fifth application:
    Doesn't have many streaks showing and a decent color change has occurred.
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    This is good enough for the first application, and since I'm in Southern Alabama, and it's already humid, I will hang this in a protected area outside and let nature do it's thing. If you want a more controlled environment, you can put it in a corner of your bathroom and the humidity from taking a shower should help it rust.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Now we wait a day and come back to check on it tomorrow. It should have a nice even light coating of rust over everything the next day.

    To be continued...

    Ok it's day 2!

    So it rained last night and probably will today. The part got a couple drops of rain on it that made it look a bit streaky, but I will show you that even THIS is fine and will not affect the end result! (Did I mention that this process is quite forgiving?)

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Our supplies today will be:

    Distilled water
    0000 steel wool (degreased with brake cleaner)
    A holding container for the boiling water

    Anything that can hold boiling water will work for this part. You can fabricate a PVC tube with an end cap like this for an entire rifle:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    This PVC tube takes a 2 gallon pot of boiling distilled water to fill. I cover it with a piece of aluminum foil to help keep evaporated liquid to stay inside as it sits.

    You can use a small Stainless saucepan to boil your small part and water on the stove. Whatever the size of the part dictates.

    You want to get the water to a rolling boil. I will let it boil and top off periodically for evaporation. Or you can just get the water to a rolling boil, and then pour it in your holding container with the part and let it "steep" like tea.

    Continued in next post...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails hammer head 006.jpg  
    Last edited by andremajic; 04-11-2015 at 01:02 PM. Reason: updating
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    H.L. Mencken

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    Thanks for providing this information!!!!! Great posts. Looking forward to the future ones.

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    After boiling the water and letting the part sit in the hot water, you'll know the part is done when the part/gun is all black. You shouldn't see any red rust anymore. If you do, you either need to wait longer, or boil the water again and pour it in your holding container. I've noticed that a rolling boil on the stove converts faster than sitting in a container. You can pretty much double the time if it's not being actively heated.

    In other words, if it takes 10 minutes of boiling on the stove, it should take 20-25 minutes of sitting in hot water in a holding container. (Not actively boiling) There is no SPECIFIC time to wait, either it's turned black or it has to wait longer. Your patience will be rewarded. Don't freak out if it hasn't converted yet. Wait it out.

    Here's the part after boiling for about 5 minutes:
    Attachment 136529
    Notice how already some of it has started to turn black?

    Ok, so I fished it out of the water after about 25 minutes of sitting. Here's what it looks like now:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Notice how it looks a little mottled? That's from the rain, and it will come out with additional applications.

    Now get your denim, degreased steel wool, or carding wheel and "lightly" brush the excess black oxide off your part. You're not trying to scrub it, just getting rid of stuff that wipes off easily with a light touch.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Nice eh? Now we're going to go back and reapply bluing solution to it again and completely cover the part.

    Heat it up again with your hairdryer or heat gun. From this point forward, you will be using a light touch to apply the solution, and try to get coverage in one pass. Don't go over the same place twice, or it will start to be counterproductive and eat away your black oxide. I applied 2 very light coats of solution to the part after heating.
    This is what it looks like now:
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    After this, you're done for the day. Hang it up in a humid area and wait another 24 hours. It can about 10 of these cycles of rusting, boiling, and carding to get just the right depth of shade and quality that you like. I've done it in less, but each piece of metal is different. Patience will be rewarded.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    You can take your distilled water that has little chunks of rust in it, strain it thru a coffee filter, and continue using it for all the rest of the steps. As long as it doesn't have chemicals or minerals in it, it should last for your entire project. Top if off with fresh distilled as it evaporates. Waste not, want not!

    To be continued in 24 hours...
    Last edited by andremajic; 04-11-2015 at 01:04 PM.
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    H.L. Mencken

  5. #5
    Grouchy Old Curmudgeon

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    You just can't beat rust bluing in my opinion. I set up a long boil take that will hold two barreled actions at once. I've been using Pilkington's solution and card off with steel wool. Another great thing about rust bluing to me is....when it does start to wear it looks better than a sudden shine spot in a gloss blue. It might be where the term gun metal gray came from. I'm sold on the system and virtually every rifle I own is rust blued. Nice post and some good information.

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    Day 3 of the process.
    I'm going to take fewer pictures, because we're basically doing the same steps over and over again.

    The part has sat outside for 24 hours in the humid Alabama air and has a light coat of rust on it:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Now the blotchy look red spots you see are spots of exposed steel that the black oxide still has to attach to. The darker spots are places that the black rust has permanently attached to. Each coating, boiling, carding, and reapplication will result in smaller and smaller areas of rust until the whole thing is covered.

    Here it is boiled, and carded.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    You will notice that as time goes on it takes less time to convert the rust by boiling. This only time it only took 5 minutes to convert the red rust to black oxide, when the first time it took around 15-20 minutes.

    Here it is again with a new light coating of bluing solution. Do this with one pass and a light touch. Then I hung it up outdoors again for another 24 hours.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    See you in another 24 hours!
    Check out my vendors section:
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    "As democracy is perfected, the office of the President represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day, the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be occupied by a downright fool and complete narcissistic moron."
    H.L. Mencken

  7. #7
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    starting to look good already and you haven't started bluffing it yet?
    I started out with nothing and I still have most of it left.
    Paralyzed Veterans of America

    Looking for a Hensly &Gibbs #258 any thing from a two cavity to a 10cavity

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSGOldfart View Post
    starting to look good already and you haven't started bluffing it yet?
    Thanks. I'm using a piece of denim to buff off the loose black oxide after boiling it in distilled water.

    Here it looks like after bringing it inside after rusting for 24 hours:
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    Here it is after boiling 5 minutes in distilled water and then carding off the black oxide with a piece of old denim. It looks nice enough right now if you wanted to oil it up, (for a hammer head!) but I'm not satisfied with it yet.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here it is after getting another coat of bluing solution and hanging up in my bathroom:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    The weather is really nasty outside. The wind is blowing hard and there are sheets of rain pouring down. I'm going to be doing the final rusting in my bathroom. All you have to do is hang up your part and take a shower without turning on your ventilation fan. Let it sit overnight.

    Another idea that works is just turning your oven on low and setting a pan of water on the lowest rack with your part suspended above it. (A poor man's sweat box)

    Check back in 24 hours!
    Check out my vendors section:
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    "As democracy is perfected, the office of the President represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day, the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be occupied by a downright fool and complete narcissistic moron."
    H.L. Mencken

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    After letting it rust overnight, boiling in distilled water, and carding off the black oxide, I got a color I like. Use WD-40 to displace any water that might be hiding in microscopic pores, and then add a light gun oil and let it sit a couple days. The bluing is pretty tough right now, but will get ever stronger over 3-4 days time.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    You can buy WD-40 at hardware stores by the gallon, so you shouldn't have a problem finding enough to immerse your parts. I usually just wipe it on thick and cover everything, let it sit a couple minutes, then wipe off the excess.

    Critique: I did notice a a bit of light pitting that showed thru the final finish. I blame the 2 days it was exposed to the outdoor weather for this. If you use a more controlled environment like your bathroom or a covered shed outdoors it will prevent this from happening.
    Here's a pic outdoors in the bright sunlight:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Another thing is to prep the metal so it doesn't have any pits in the metal at all when you start. If there are pits, they will grow larger as you use the rust blue. That is why the controlled environment helps.

    If your finish has some minor issues, all you have to do is use sanding paper to knock it back down to bare metal and re-apply bluing over the spot you sanded. You won't have to sand the whole thing down again. New bluing blends in with old bluing. Since this is a hammer head, I'm going to say "good enough" and use it as it is.

    I hope this shows how, even with mistakes and not doing everything perfectly the kind of results you can get at home using rust bluing. Practice on small things like a hand tool or hunks of iron until you get the technique down then move on to firearms.



    My next project will be an old arisaka floor plate that had a bunch of pitting and rust.
    Here it is with a basic sanding with 280 grit:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    There are lots of pits and machining marks that will need to be removed. I'll update the thread when I get the metal prepped well enough to start.

    It's noteworthy that if you want to match a factory finish that you start sanding with a fine grit, and work your way down in coarseness until the freshly sanded part matches the factory sanding. Some gun companies use different grits on different parts of the gun for contrast. If you don't care about historical accuracy, get it as polished as shiny as you want!

    Update: April 15
    After a LOT of polishing with a final grit of 350, using a block to keep the flats flat, and as many pits eliminated as possible, it looks like this:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Andy

    Continued...
    Last edited by andremajic; 08-16-2015 at 02:41 PM.
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    "As democracy is perfected, the office of the President represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day, the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be occupied by a downright fool and complete narcissistic moron."
    H.L. Mencken

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    Used some automatic dishwashing detergent and hot water to scrub any traces of oil off of it. The water should "sheet" on it when it's clean enough and not "bead". Use a heat gun to dry.

    Here it is after heating and coating it about 3 coats of my rust blue solution. Use the heat gun between coats to help it dry fast and achieve a uniform coat with minimum streaks.

    It's hung up inside my bathroom to rust overnight.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    It's a nice plum brown/purplish color right now. We'll check back on it tomorrow afternoon.

    Andy
    Last edited by andremajic; 04-15-2015 at 07:07 PM.
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    H.L. Mencken

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    very informative, I am enjoying it. Got on a epoxy binge last year but now I have the blueing urge again!
    Look twice, shoot once.

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    It's been 24 hours, and the part has a light coating of rust on it. Sorry about the blurry pic, it was moving when I took the snapshot:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I've boiled about 1 gallon of distilled water and then poured it over the part and let it sit in a tall crockpot until it was turned to black oxide. (All the crockpot did was help retain the heat. If your crockpot can boil water, you can just keep the distilled water in it and put the cover on it when you're done for the next day.)

    This is a pic after carding off any of the loose black oxide. You can use a soft bristled toothbrush to help get in the nooks and crannies, or use balled up degreased 0000 steel wool, or even denim.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Next I applied another layer of "Andy's rust blue" solution and hung it up in the bathroom again. It's already significantly darker than the last project. (Lower carbon content = faster rusting) It will probably only take 2 applications to get the color I want.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Check back in 24 hours!
    Check out my vendors section:
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?231-Andy-s-Slow-Rust-Blue

    "As democracy is perfected, the office of the President represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day, the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be occupied by a downright fool and complete narcissistic moron."
    H.L. Mencken

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    Here it is after sitting 24 hours:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Sorry to take so long to post. I had about 50 labels to affix to my rust bluing solution bottles and I just got back to check on it.

    I heat it up in the distilled water and let it boil. Let it sit about 30 minutes.
    Carded off the loose black oxide, and it looks beautimus. (That's a word my gun smith taught me.) It looks really nice. Only 2 rusting sessions were needed for this part!

    Slathered it up with WD-40 and let it sit for a couple days for the bluing to "cure". I'll need to take a pic in sunlight tomorrow, because this pic doesn't do it justice!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    See how easy this is?

    Here's a better pic outdoors. It's partially overcast, but it's better light than indoors.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I have a list of people signing up for my bottles of "Andy's Slow Rust Bluing" in the swapping and selling section. Feel free to peruse my thread. Please read from start to finish for any answers you might be asking.
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ng!&highlight=

    Andy
    Last edited by andremajic; 08-16-2015 at 02:42 PM.
    Check out my vendors section:
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    "As democracy is perfected, the office of the President represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day, the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be occupied by a downright fool and complete narcissistic moron."
    H.L. Mencken

  14. #14
    Boolit Master

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    When do you plan on selling the rust blue solution?

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy
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    Last night I PMed everyone on my list. You were on it sparky45.
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    "As democracy is perfected, the office of the President represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day, the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be occupied by a downright fool and complete narcissistic moron."
    H.L. Mencken

  16. #16
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    I should be on your list. No PM?

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy
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    I PMd you too.

    No one got it?

    Ok I'll send it out again.
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    "As democracy is perfected, the office of the President represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day, the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be occupied by a downright fool and complete narcissistic moron."
    H.L. Mencken

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    Did I make the 'list'? No PM . . . ?

  19. #19
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    Sent you a PM Expanman...
    Check out my vendors section:
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?231-Andy-s-Slow-Rust-Blue

    "As democracy is perfected, the office of the President represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day, the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be occupied by a downright fool and complete narcissistic moron."
    H.L. Mencken

  20. #20
    Boolit Man La Dano's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Denham Springs, La
    Posts
    91
    Put me on the list for the next batch.
    Winchester mod100 308
    Rem700 270
    98 308 Mauser
    98 7mmMag Mauser
    98 8X57 mauser
    95 7X57 mauser
    336 30-30
    (2) 336 35Rem
    AR-15 223
    AR-15 6.8spc
    AR-15 6.5 Grendel
    Too many shotguns

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check