Tested Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant

[melloairman]

Part of me says to not post this but . I have been using dry molly on the molds as a spray but not in the cavities . Because it will with stand a higher temp than the dry slide . I have also used both for bullet lube in my air rifles with 28 inch barrels . 8-10 bhn 1050 fps with no leading . But I do not have heat as well from the hot gas . I do not know if they would work as a bullet lube for powder burners . Marvin

[gwpercle]

Don't forget snakes, spiders, cars, airplanes, motorcycles, knives, ISIS, tigers, mountain lions, falling in the shower...... well.................just about anything..........if used wrong. Or you are REEEEEEEEEEEEALLY unlucky!

banger

Deranged airline pilots , mad bombers, drivers not paying attention, angry wife, hospitals....hospitals are a great place to get all kinds of bad stuff and die.
Gary

[leeggen]

Dang it, I was just got down how to sniff my molds and not get burn marks on my nose. Oh well just another thing the doctors can check for in my blood. Cast on my friends cast on!
CD

[sawzall]

Just another case in point that lube and grease and oil in molds do NOT cause wrinkles! Cold molds and cold lead cause wrinkles.

Scrubbing the dickens out of a mold is a waste of time from what I have found. I go directly to casting lead after using my molds for hot melt glue boolits and using PAN (GREASE!!) as a cavity lube/release agent.

Perfect lead boolits........if the mold is heated to FULL casting temp on a hotplate. Not dipping the edge in the lead pot or setting it on top of the pot.

95% of my over 2.5 dozen Lee molds drop boolits from the cavities effortlessly. The dry lube would probably only imporlve that. I will try it. Thanks for suggestiong it.

banger-j

So how come I can be casting away like mad, dropping perfect boolits from a properly heated mold, but if I over lube the pins and get lube in the cavities, it takes a very long time to get good boolits again if I don't stop and clean the cavities? Only change is oil in the cavities.

[gwpercle]

So how come I can be casting away like mad, dropping perfect boolits from a properly heated mold, but if I over lube the pins and get lube in the cavities, it takes a very long time to get good boolits again if I don't stop and clean the cavities? Only change is oil in the cavities.

Exactly my very same experience, any time I got two stroke oil near a mould...especially with Lee moulds on the underside of sprue plate and top of blocks, they want to smear and gall there! instant wrinkled bullets big time , and I was doing the Q-Tip application as sparingly as possible, following posted directions ! Went to using Permatex
anti-seize lube because it was thicker...worked better but I can still contaminate the cavity with an application to underside of plate, top of blocks and sometimes to sprue plate pivot screw. That's why I tried the dry lubricant in the first place, It's dry and I hoped it wouldn't get into cavities and cause wrinkles. Especially underside of the sprue plate and top of blocks.
It works...it doesn't "transfer" to other places and it doesn't cause boolits to wrinkle even when applied to the cavities themselves....makes good boolits and they want to jump out of the cavities.
It may be hazardous to my health...but hey , what isn't hazardous? Just getting older is hazardous! Today I got out all my Lee moulds , bottle of dry lube and I'm going to treat every one with it. I still use Permatex on the alignment pins because it doesn't get into the cavities and contaminate them. I hate to start getting wrinkled boolits in the middle of a session and this dry stuff helps.
Gary

[mozeppa]

i have a can of spray graphite that goes on wet , then dries , i spray the foil til its black when i powder coat and they don't stick at all
on the foil. ..not one in 125!

maybe i'll shoot some on my molds if they ever arrive and report back on my findings.

[gwpercle]

I've used the spray on black graphite mould release for a time, it does work, at first everything is fine. But after a time , it builds up ....then it's a bear to remove and the moulds get all covered in black crudd. I finally cleaned all the grungy moulds up and started back to square one, trying nothing in the cavities. The problem I was having was mould lubrication , migration to cavities and the sprue plate underside and top of block galling.
Maybe the dry lube will build up over time too, but for now it's not black in color and I can wipe off the thin dry film easily and it doesn't cause wrinkled boolits !...so we shall see how this works out.
Gary

[woodbutcher]

Just remember,we all have a terminal illness.It`s called conception.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

[country gent]

After 2 coats done twice for 4 light coats was there any change in the bullets as cast Dia? I have seen some mould release agents that would build up making bullets smaller over time. We used ptfe in a sheet ( turcite) for glued on to machine members and hand fitted back to size and fit. It worked good for this purpose ut didnt get near the heat levels and ran lubricated. Slick 50 oil additive had PTFE added to reduce engine wear also. This has been around for any years in industry and consumer products. Many things have been used as mould release agents graphite, Molybneum, micas, even carbon ( smoke). most can build up reducing bullets size and some can affect the "sharpness of the bullets appearence. A good clean well cut mould properly finished drops bullets very well as it is.

[gwpercle]

After the 2 coats done twice for 4 light coats, with dry lube, I could not detect a build up or a change in boolit size.
The dry lube film is extremely thin. The graphite spray is heavier , almost like black paint and does affect the size and sharpness...those are the reasons I stopped using it.
I am going to watch out for build up , size and sharpness effects...I'm only going to apply a thin coat, with a Q-tip to control how much is applied , after wiping down the cold mould. I don't plan on spraying the mould just rub on dry lube with a Q-Tip.
Gary

[GhostHawk]

I read this thread, slept on it, ordered some Liquid Wrench, waited a week for it to arrive.
Before it arrived I took all my molds upstairs, hot soapy water soak, then a scrub, then rinse with clear hot water.

Fixed any that tended to work screws loose. And waited.

When it finally arrived I took 2 molds that had worked themselves slowly into hanging a bullet.

Used the liquid wrench on a qtip into the cavity's, on the face, under the sprue cutter, etc. Mine so far have only gotten 2 light coats, a couple minutes apart.
I let them both dry for a day, then fired them up.

Boolits "SPRANG" out of the cavity's on opening or with a very light tap.

Ok, do 2 more, same results, I now have 3 which have not gotten it, and I'm thinking the only way I'll find them is when I'm casting.

If you let them dry for a day, warm your mold as you normally do, there is nothing causing any problems for any of my bullets.
Except the speed goes up and I have to force myself to stop and do a 5 count after pour so the sprue can cool.

In short, OP Bless you sir!
It works exactly as advertised. No sweat, no problems, no cursing, no frustration.

[MacFan]

I tried Liquid Wrench Dry Lube today for the first time on a Lee 6 cavity mold. I'm sold, no more mystery lubes, bee's wax or 2-cycle oil anywhere near my molds. This stuff worked in the cavities, on the sprue plate and alignment pins. I did a test run of 50 casts (300 bullets) not a single reject from the first cast to the end. Thank you gwpercle!

Edit: I used the spray can version.

[minmax]

I used the spray version on my RCBS Summit press, that my father gave me. After I totally de-greased it I put several coats on it, it has been slicker than snot. I had thought of using on my molds when tried it on the press. As far as chemicals, I already have nervous system damage, so what is another thing added to the list.

[MacFan]

I left the garage and sprayed the mold in the backyard, the propellant/vehicle/solvent stinks. I run my molds around 400 to 435F and Teflon decomposes at 662F. Considering how long it it continues to work in the mold I doubt if there's any charring or burning going on.

[Echo]

Look guys - there is such a trivial amount of Teflon used in this process that even if it DID outgas, I doubt if it could be detected, much less be dangerous.
Samo for the Teflon-coated muffin molds we use for ingots. That coating is a couple thousandths thick - any outgassing will be trivial...

[gwpercle]

Guys, you all are welcome for the Dry lube tip, It wasn't my idea, another member said it worked so I gave it a try. Just wanted to spread the knowledge. I found a can of Dry lube in a spray can in my garage and going to use it next time....spraying is easier to cover the entire mould surfaces.
But I'm keeping the Q-tip for spot treating .
Glad you guys found it helpful and thanks to the other member who posted about it.
What I really like about the treatment is how the boolits jump out of the mould and , of course the no contamination/wrinkle thing.
Gary