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Thread: A Lee Pot Melt Observation

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    A Lee Pot Melt Observation

    20/1 does not dribble like WW+tin. No clue as to why. Been castin' with the 20/1 for nearly two weeks now, just finished up a 2 hour run. I put back 4 dribble trees about 1" long or so in that time, I went through at least 12 pounds of metal. WW+tin usually has the floor covered in spatter and I have to twist the valve stem at least every cast. I'm coming to believe that antimony is evil.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I think that's called "LSM"--Lee Stalagmite Factor.
    I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    I just put my Lee ingot mold under the spout. It catches the drips, I throw em back in the pot.

  4. #4
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    Me also, I leave the Lee ingot mold under the spout and dump it back in the top every now and then. It does lead some, but it is very handy to use the bottom pour spout.
    I still like Dan's phrase of the "Lee Dribble Master"

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy keeper89's Avatar
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    Talking

    Just got a Lee 20 lb pro 4 and it did tend to drip at first (straight pre melted and ingoted ww). Adjusted the stem down and up to minimize the drip and still could not get it to stop completely, then turned the temp down to around 5 1/2 and voila! I am only getting a few drips per 20 lb session, no need to put anything under the spout other than the mold! I hope this helps out, maybe I just got lucky?
    Lead.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    i think you did just get lucky.if i turn my pro pot iv down below 7 1/2 it quits dripping but it quits pouring too. the nozzle eventually stops up and i have to crank it up and wait. i think the knob on mine is not synched with the dial because it only goes down to 2 1/2 and it goes way past HI.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnH
    20/1 does not dribble like WW+tin. No clue as to why. Been castin' with the 20/1 for nearly two weeks now, just finished up a 2 hour run. I put back 4 dribble trees about 1" long or so in that time, I went through at least 12 pounds of metal. WW+tin usually has the floor covered in spatter and I have to twist the valve stem at least every cast. I'm coming to believe that antimony is evil.
    John,

    That is interesting. I have had 3 Lee pots and needed to Leement them all. I just used some LBT lapping compound I had on hand and worked everything in together. Then I drilled a small hole and put a small hook in the base directly under the handle and a little bit behind so it is out of the way. Then I drill a hole in the plastic handle torwards the back so it is also out of the way and away from the heat. Then you can stretch a small rubber band between the two hooks. You hardly notice it when casting and it helps to keep tension on the rod. If I still develop a problem, I know that it is time to flux.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check