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Thread: What is the best water proofing treatment for canvas possible bag?

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy waarp8nt's Avatar
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    What is the best water proofing treatment for canvas possible bag?

    Title says it all... I'm looking for a treatment for a canvas possible bag. I read in an older issue of backwoodsman magazine about water proofing canvas using a mixture of linseed oil, but have since lost the magazine when I moved. It required some drying time, but gave a nice brown tint. Anyone have the backwoodsman formula or any other ideas how to water proof canvas?
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    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
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    For fifty years I have used Thompson's Water Seal on tents, etc.
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  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I would figure that linseed oil would gradually harden and start cracking but that is speculation on my part.

    My first thought is the wax type coatings used on canvas coats and hats (oilskins). If you don't like it you can always boil it out or use solvent to remove it.

    I am sure there are lots of other suggestions out there too.

    Longbow

  4. #4
    Boolit Man
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    I would advise avoiding linseed oil like the plague!
    Linseed Oil plus cotton cloth = spontaneous combustion!

    It does depend on how historically correct you want to be. Some folks use Thompson's waterseal, as I have on canvas tarps and tipi covers.
    On personal items I have used sno-seal (for boots) brushed on and melted in with a hairdrier, and some folks use beeswax mixtures in a similar manner.

    Hopefully another Hivernot with more memory cells than I have today will chime in shortly.

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  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master bedbugbilly's Avatar
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    Linseed Oil - boiled linseed oil - was indeed used for waterproofing canvas. I have used it a number of times when making "historically correct" canvas items such as bedroll covers, trail tarps (shelters), etc. I found the best method was to thin it down with turpentine and apply it with a paint brush. I would lay the item on the grass and apply a coat - then let it dry in the sun. Several coats will make a good waterproofing and while it "stiffens" the canvas - it is pliable.

    BUT - while it is historically correct - for practical purposes it is DANGEROUS for general use. As already pointed out - BLO and canvas are both very flammable - and we all know you need three things for "fire" - source of heat to combustion temperature - oxygen - flammable material. That is why it is just plain "stupid" (in my opinion) to use that method for waterproofing. All it takes is a careless moment and a spark to create a disaster and injury. Even on a possibles pouch - under the right conditions you could have a portion of a patch with n ember blow back on you by the wind. You could get too close to a camp fire or have an ember from a camp fire fly on to it. "Historical correct" is fine but for everyday use - safety and common sense should prevail. You can make just as nice of a looking pouch by using natural dyes and a commercial waterproofing product that is fireproof.

  6. #6
    Boolit Man
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    YouY

























    You might want look at this , Filson been making this for years and people keep going back for more.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master leeggen's Avatar
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    I beleive once the linseed oil is dry then a spark will not start it on fire and there won't be a big poof and flames start to roll. Most linseed oil fires, which now days are few, came from using linseed oil and discarding multiple rags in a trash container or in a big pile that with the right conditions could start on fire and some did. JMO
    CD
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  8. #8
    Boolit Master slim1836's Avatar
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    Google "CAMP DRY". I used it on a painters cloth that I used for primitive camping and it worked well for me.

    Slim
    JUST GOTTA LOVE THIS JOINT.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy waarp8nt's Avatar
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    Gents, thanks for the replies and opinions. I will venture away from linseed oil if it as any chance of contributing to an already flammable hobby. A potentially flammable bag with the additional hazards of a powder flask, primer flask, flints and caps doesn't sound like anything I want to throw over my shoulder while setting around the camp fire. Let alone store in my home. I truly glad asked as I had no idea linseed oil was that combustible as a finished product.

    I have a Filson wool coat, very good quality, but pricy. I was lucky enough to get it on sale, price was a whole lot more agreeable on my budget at $125 than the original price of $475. That being said, I bought a used Filson waxed canvas vest from my friend and it came with a can of the wax finish. I will likely use it to be on the safe side.
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  10. #10
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    How about mink oil or neets foot oil?

    Or this link

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...l-Skin-Dusters

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy beroen's Avatar
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    Just get rid of the pilgrim purse problem solved

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy beroen's Avatar
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    But if you really like it I had some good luck turning some ripstop nylon pants into some ski pants with that spray waterproofing stuff in a aerosol can

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy waarp8nt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beroen View Post
    Just get rid of the pilgrim purse problem solved
    "pilgrim purse" LOL! Never heard it called that.... LOL!
    Boolits Feedback <> Gunbroker Feedback

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  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Another vote for Camp Dry. That stuff is great.

    http://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-Camp-Heav.../dp/B00QVL2L5E
    KE4GWE - - - - - - Colt 1860, it just feels right.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    I also use Thompsons on almost everything. it does a wonderful job on tents, and I use it on my steel toed boots for work
    The rules of the range are simple at best, Should you venture in that habitat, Don't cuss a man's dog, be good to the cook, And don't mess with a cowboy's hat. ~ Baxter Black

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy beroen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beagle333 View Post
    Another vote for Camp Dry. That stuff is great.

    http://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-Camp-Heav.../dp/B00QVL2L5E
    Yea that's the stuff a few Coates on a pair of rip stop nylon pants and I got through 6 days of snowboarding without a wett butt.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    Just recently I read an article in one of the local rags, aka 'newspapers'. Couldn't find it just now, naturally, so instead of that...

    http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-waterproof-clothing-and-about-anything-else-/
    https://wbrpc.org/

    genealogy, another area of interest

    feedback - http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...9613-czech_too

  18. #18
    Moderator Emeritus fishhawk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beroen View Post
    Just get rid of the pilgrim purse problem solved
    flatlander
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  19. #19
    Boolit Master


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    I once saw a recipe for waterproofing that called for canning wax-paraffin-dissolved in gasoline. Cautions included doing it outdoors and using a hotplate, avoiding open flame as a heat source, and having a lid to cover the container and smother flames.
    Once BLO is dry, the danger of spontaneous combustion is past. Spontaneous combustion occurs when rags, damp with BLO, are abandoned, not in an air tight metal container. The drying action produces heat, sometimes enough to start a fire.
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  20. #20
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    there was a recipe on yahoo today for just such a thing. stir 1/2 of a 2.8 ounce tube of clear silicone into 1 quart mineral spirits then shake til well blended. paint whatever ya need waterproofed & let dry. the demo showed it used on a back-pack. says it will even work on canvas shoes.

    luck & have a good'en, bubba.

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