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Thread: Guide to making percussion caps

  1. #81
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LIMPINGJ View Post
    ofitg for the 48 formula how do you make the ground glass or do you purchase it?
    Thanks
    I do not make my own caps. but I use to make stain glass panels. If you can find someone who works in stain glass, see if they will save you the slurry from their grinder. It will be a VERY FINE ground glass. Almost the consistency of talc.
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  2. #82
    Boolit Master

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    For grit I bought some ground glass 40-70 grit from Harbor Freight. You can strain it through a 100 mesh screen to get finer size and grind it a bit smaller with a mortar and pestle.

  3. #83
    Boolit Master

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    Have not been following this thread but read it all just now. Last night I checked Dixie for caps and saw their cap maker. Then checked their primer material, they claimed a cost of about 1 cent for 22 rimfire but there was zero information about what the primer material was. It looked to be 3 components, does anyone know what it actually contains?
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  4. #84
    Boolit Master
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    I looked at Dixie's site.
    That priming compound is the Prime All compound.
    Which basically is H48 chemicals.
    But you can use three of the 4 chemicals to make F 42 priming compound.
    My suggestion with Prime All.
    Mix the chemicals by Weight not by volume as they are in the instructions.
    Mixing by volume Works.
    But is so much better if you mix it by weight for either H48 or F 42 compounds.

  5. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by ulav8r View Post
    Have not been following this thread but read it all just now. Last night I checked Dixie for caps and saw their cap maker. Then checked their primer material, they claimed a cost of about 1 cent for 22 rimfire but there was zero information about what the primer material was. It looked to be 3 components, does anyone know what it actually contains?
    It's more than likely to be the H48 compound which contains, sulfur, antimony sulfide, potassium chlorate, and ground glass, a very well nice proven priming compound that works but it is corrosive after firing and firearms must be cleaned afterwards.

  6. #86
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    Dark Vaj,
    It is potassium perchloride, much more stable, good sulfur and antimony disulfide. They work great if mixed properly with few if any misfires. Been making caps for 2 years now. And yes corrosive but what is not when using BP or most of the subs. Just clean and oil.
    Graysmoke

  7. #87
    Boolit Master
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    Over the weekend , I made myself 700 #11 primer caps with F42 compound made from Prim All chemicals.
    I am going to make some more primer caps.
    But I have to cut up more soda cans since I ran out.
    I made the primers several ways.
    Some with single sheet of soda can material.
    Several batches with double later of soda can material.
    I also ran a lot of the caps three my punch set up that I made that sizes the outside a little smaller and squares off the top of the cap a little flatter

  8. #88
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graysmoke View Post
    Dark Vaj,
    It is potassium perchloride, much more stable, good sulfur and antimony disulfide. They work great if mixed properly with few if any misfires. Been making caps for 2 years now. And yes corrosive but what is not when using BP or most of the subs. Just clean and oil.
    Graysmoke
    What are your proportions?

  9. #89
    Boolit Master
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    The FH-42 mix that I use is,
    47.2 % potassium chloride
    30.83 % Antimony sulfide
    21.97 % sulfur.
    The compound works great and a little better than H-48 priming compound.

  10. #90
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    LAGS,
    I switched to alum. roof flashing tuff as nails. Had quite a few failures till I rub bees wax lightly across the metal then use the drill press as an arbor press. Wax is not greasy and only on the exterior Just enough not heavy.
    Is the potassium chlorate or perchlorate, I was lead to believe it was the perchlorate in prime-all Thanks
    Graysmoke

  11. #91
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by LAGS View Post
    The FH-42 mix that I use is,
    47.2 % potassium chloride
    30.83 % Antimony sulfide
    21.97 % sulfur.
    The compound works great and a little better than H-48 priming compound.
    I assume you mean Potassium Chlorate (KClO3) and Antimony trisulfide (Sb2S3) ?

  12. #92
    Boolit Buddy ofitg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graysmoke View Post
    LAGS,
    I switched to alum. roof flashing tuff as nails. Had quite a few failures till I rub bees wax lightly across the metal then use the drill press as an arbor press. Wax is not greasy and only on the exterior Just enough not heavy.
    Is the potassium chlorate or perchlorate, I was lead to believe it was the perchlorate in prime-all Thanks
    Graysmoke
    Here's a handy little compilation of primer compounds, including H48 and FH42 -

    https://www.northwestfirearms.com/th...ixtures.58110/
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  13. #93
    Boolit Master
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    I have tried using the Aluminium roof flashing and still have plenty.
    Like you said , it can be tough as nails.
    For my chemicals,
    I just use the chemicals from "Prime All" compound.
    One package makes more primers than I really need.
    But you can order chemicals from supply companies if you want to cut your costs even more , or have a bunch of material if you need it.

  14. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by LAGS View Post
    I have tried using the Aluminium roof flashing and still have plenty.
    Like you said , it can be tough as nails.
    For my chemicals,
    I just use the chemicals from "Prime All" compound.
    One package makes more primers than I really need.
    But you can order chemicals from supply companies if you want to cut your costs even more , or have a bunch of material if you need it.
    Powder Valley just had a sale on the prime all's for like $18 around Thanksgiving. I grabbed one of each. I just checked and they are back up to $28. I would look for sales like these to just have the supplies on hand. Good luck.
    Ron

  15. #95
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrWolf View Post
    Powder Valley just had a sale on the prime all's for like $18 around Thanksgiving. I grabbed one of each. I just checked and they are back up to $28. I would look for sales like these to just have the supplies on hand. Good luck.
    Ron
    Would have been nice if you let us know earlier.

  16. #96
    Boolit Master
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    I order my Prime All from 22 Reloader for $20

  17. #97
    Boolit Master lead chucker's Avatar
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    I make the H42 and add a little aluminum powder to it to make more of a mag cap. I screen it, if it goes through a 80 mesh and stays on a 100 mesh i keep in and ad it to my compound. Not sure if it makes that much difference but works good.
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  18. #98
    Boolit Master lead chucker's Avatar
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    Ive been putting my caps in small bottles and save enough room for a small silica jell pouch with the hope it will help with moisture. Alot of humidity in the air where i live.
    Dont pee down my back and tell me its raining.

  19. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Super Sneaky Steve View Post
    Would have been nice if you let us know earlier.

    I only saw the sale on a fluke and honestly didn't think about it till LAGS post. His normal costs were about what I paid on the sale. My point was to look around for sales as I am not currently trying to make any caps just getting prepared.

  20. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graysmoke View Post
    Dark Vaj,
    It is potassium perchloride, much more stable, good sulfur and antimony disulfide. They work great if mixed properly with few if any misfires. Been making caps for 2 years now. And yes corrosive but what is not when using BP or most of the subs. Just clean and oil.
    Graysmoke
    Ah yes, that makes more sense, potassium perchlorate is much more stable and less likely to explode when mixing the agents. I have not personally make any yet but I have joined the "Primer Reloader" group on Mewe, and boy are they interesting, if I ever get to reloading caps and primers, I may post and share some info on this forum. the chemistry is so so beautiful.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check