RepackboxInline FabricationWidenersLoad Data
RotoMetals2Lee PrecisionTitan ReloadingMidSouth Shooters Supply
Reloading Everything
Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Copper Hornady Gas Checks VS Aluminum Gas Checks?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    DonMountain's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Mid-Missouri
    Posts
    1,159

    Copper Hornady Gas Checks VS Aluminum Gas Checks?

    I have been using Hornady Copper Gas Checks on all of my cast lead boolets for years pretty successfully. They fit the RCBS, Lyman and LBT molded boolets very well and when crimped on, they don't come off even after hitting deer and other stuff. They appear to have a thickened lip that crimps into the boolet base. I have recently looked at purchasing some of the aluminum gas checks that are far cheaper than the Hornady's, but have read stories here on this site that they don't crimp on well and stay on like the Hornady's. And I looked at the gas check makers that allow a person to make their own, and they don't have any sort of method to produce this thickened lip around the crimping edge. So I have been reluctant to buy one of them if they don't really make a well-formed gas check that crimps on properly. So, my real question is I guess, are there any produced aluminum gas checks sold commercially that are cheaper than the copper Hornady's and are produced with the thickened crimping edge so they don't come off? And are there any production equipment sold that produces a properly formed gas check out of aluminum?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master 35 shooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    collins ms.
    Posts
    2,220
    The hornady's do crimp on and are usually very tight and a good fit. On the other hand i have some boolits that the Hornady's will crimp on and not come off, but will spin on the shank. I make my own checks from al. now and get even better accuracy than i did with Hornady's. They do not come off and do not spin on the bases, but it did take some experimenting to find the right size Material.
    When i form the checks it leaves a rough edge around the rim of the check which does a good job of crimping on. The main thing if your buying or making checks is to match the thickness to the gas check shank of your boolit to the thickness of the material. Some al. checks i have to anneal to get the springback out of them to get them to size on correctly.

    If your buying checks make sure to tell them your shank dia. so they can match the right size for you.
    I recently tried some of Sage's Outdoors .010" hard al. checks in 35 cal. that size on tighter than anything i've ever tried before, absolutely can't get them off. They shoot every bit as good as Hornady's or anything i make myself. I shot up to 2300 fps. with them recently and there was no sign of giving up to them.

    Yes there are good check making tools out there for making your own.
    Pat's tools will work on a loading press and Charlie's uses an Arbor press. The one i use is from Charlie and is a simple hammer tool...works great..just slow.
    There are threads on this forum on both Pat's and Charles check makers.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master altheating's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Herkimer, NY
    Posts
    702
    I would not worry about the checks from Charlie's Freechex tools coming off. We find many of them at the bases of our 100 and 200 yard gongs. They come off only after hitting the steel gongs. Once the tip of the Boolit hits the gong the usefulness of the check is over. So far we shoot them out of all our .22, 6mm/243's, 35 cal, .44 and 45/70's. Accuracy is as good if not better than what we were getting with Hornady checks. I will never buy another copper check again as long as I can get Lithoplate. IMHO, Freechex III tools make a check every time you move the arbor press handle, Pats tool is a two step process requiring you to place a cut disk into the die to make the cup.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy hockeynick39's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    South of San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    227
    Quote Originally Posted by altheating View Post
    I would not worry about the checks from Charlie's Freechex tools coming off. We find many of them at the bases of our 100 and 200 yard gongs. They come off only after hitting the steel gongs. Once the tip of the Boolit hits the gong the usefulness of the check is over. So far we shoot them out of all our .22, 6mm/243's, 35 cal, .44 and 45/70's. Accuracy is as good if not better than what we were getting with Hornady checks. I will never buy another copper check again as long as I can get Lithoplate. IMHO, Freechex III tools make a check every time you move the arbor press handle, Pats tool is a two step process requiring you to place a cut disk into the die to make the cup.

    Actually, once the boolit leaves the barrel, the usefulness of the gas check is over. One step or two steps, a homemade check from decent cheap materials (usually free) is the absolute best. I use soda cans and Pat's tools for mine, along with all PB boolits, I don't mess around with those abominations with shanks anymore.

  5. #5
    Moderator Emeritus JeffinNZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Christchurch, New Zealand
    Posts
    5,816
    It's worth remembering that the original gas checks were just a slip on brass cup and did not crimp. The homemade versions we are knocking out now, material not withstanding, are essentially the same as Mr Barlow's from 100 years ago.
    Thermal underwear style guru.
    "Exclusive international distributor of Jeff Brown Hunt Club clothing."
    Supplier to the rich(?) and infamous.

    Cheers from New Zealand

    Jeff.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy

    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    A State of Confusion
    Posts
    258
    Correct me if I'm wrong, still learning.. Copper is okay with a SST bbl, but aluminum is not?

  7. #7
    Boolit Master 35 shooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    collins ms.
    Posts
    2,220
    I've put several thousand al. and copper checks, mostly aluminum for the last 2 years through my stainless bbl. and my brother has put more than a few through his carbon bbl.
    No undue wear on either bbl. that we could tell. Mine actually seems to be averaging slightly tighter groups lately.
    Personaly, i think jacketed bullets wear a bore more than any check ever could.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Globe Az
    Posts
    249
    All that wear with copper bullets is the extra horse power put behind them. Once had RemJet 22 which had cut well into the topstrap of the gun. The little 22lr with its one grain of powder have supposedly gone millions of rounds with only moderate degradation. It's that hot gas you see a foot out of the muzzle that's carrying steel and copper and powder out with the bullet -tj

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy fivefang's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Nye County
    Posts
    142
    Hi , I think that the original gas check was just a metal disc of correct diameter,for .44 p.b. a 7/16" hole punch makes my gas checks for the Lyman 429350 which pushes the beer can disc into the case as the boolit is seated,this however works on steight wall casings only,my 2 cent's Fivefang

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    1,196
    I chose Charlies gas check maker over 4 yrs ago, use aluminum rolls of flashing
    and my accuracy results on rifle shooting at 300 yds are the same as if I used Hornady copper gas checks. I had zero luck with soda pop cans or beer can aluminum.

    The check maker has long ago paid for itself. I am sure if I had gone with Pats tool,
    I'd be posting the same paragraph above.

    No regrets on aluminum gas checks.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master curioushooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Southern Indiana
    Posts
    906
    Actually, once the boolit leaves the barrel, the usefulness of the gas check is over.
    Not if the check falls off the bullets butt and destabilizes it.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check