S&W Maintenance

[dubber123]

Lots of really good info in this thread.
If I can take one apart then I figure any of you can do like wise and be good at it in short order.
Model 14 K frame and even the older model it came from were leaf spring. J frame and transitional I frames are coil spring.
Get a really good set of hollow ground screwdrivers and the recoil spring tool and then just be sure to put the screws back where they came from.
Again.............good info in this thread!

Joni as usual knows her stuff

[Joni Lynn]

Thanks. I appreciate the good thoughts.
One additional mention. The sideplate screws all need to be properly tightened, not to the extreme but don't shoot the gun with a loose screw. The sideplate contributes to the strength of the frame while you're shooting it, one or more loose screws would allow flex in the frame and if continued, then metal fatigue.
I have a 38/44 Outdoorsman from 1950 that I learned to take apart and put together. I did it until I had it down. (it's a 5 screw model)

[Patrick56]

Remember the ejector rod. It has left hand threads and and should be opened using a piece of leather in the pliers to protect the rod. Do not leave it loose when re-installed as it can unscrew and hung up the cylinder.

[44man]

Remember the ejector rod. It has left hand threads and and should be opened using a piece of leather in the pliers to protect the rod. Do not leave it loose when re-installed as it can unscrew and hung up the cylinder.

An old drill collet works great. I never toss them when a drill goes bad. Works super for a deburr tool too.

[Joni Lynn]

I seem to remember that a number of year ago the ejector rod had a standard thread but I don't recall when the change to left handed thread was made. If I wasn't so lazy today I would go look it up. I'll try to get back with the info later on.

[Patrick56]

I seem to remember that a number of year ago the ejector rod had a standard thread but I don't recall when the change to left handed thread was made. If I wasn't so lazy today I would go look it up. I'll try to get back with the info later on.

I had to check it myself, as it is some years since I worked with my 66.

[C.F.Plinker]

The ejector rod threading was changed from right hand to left hand thread in the late 1950s to early 1960s depending on the model. For instance the model 10 was changed in 1961 and the model 15 was changed in 1959.

The rods with left hand threads have a line cut in the rod just behind the knurling.

[Joni Lynn]

Thanks, I didn't know about that line on the rod. So then, the new ones have the line while the older ones don't?
Another thing I remember about taking the ejector rod out is that you should place one or two empty case in the chambers to support the extractor while you twist on things. It'll help to prevent damage to little things like the two extractor star alignment pins.

[C.F.Plinker]

Thanks, I didn't know about that line on the rod. So then, the new ones have the line while the older ones don't?

Correct. However, I suppose that there could always be the oddball exception.

[jonp]

I recently bought a 15-4. It had big problems with lock up and timing. Its the first one I took apart to clean but I watched a couple of youtube videos I decided to try it. I doused the sideplate in kroil, let it sit then took out the screws and banged it against my hand. Several raps and it popped off. Removing the insides, cleaning them carefully and putting them back in was not hard. Some oil and im lettting it brake itself in.

If I can you can

[dubber123]

Thanks, I didn't know about that line on the rod. So then, the new ones have the line while the older ones don't?
Another thing I remember about taking the ejector rod out is that you should place one or two empty case in the chambers to support the extractor while you twist on things. It'll help to prevent damage to little things like the two extractor star alignment pins.

Another worthy note from Joni. The empty cases in the cylinder prevent shearing off the small pins that align the star. It's a bad day all around if that happens

[Petrol & Powder]

[QUOTE=C.F.Plinker;3203259.............

The rods with left hand threads have a line cut in the rod just behind the knurling.[/QUOTE]

Well there's a good tidbit of knowledge! Thank You!

[Petrol & Powder]

I place empty cartridge casings in ALL of the charge holes before removing or installing the ejector rod. Bad things can happen if that extractor slips when tightening/loosening the ejector rod. I'm sure two casings would be plenty but 4 more casings costs nothing and makes me feel better.

[44man]

Reason for the left hand threads was torque from the twist that loosened the right hand threads.

[Mal Paso]

Remember the ejector rod. It has left hand threads and and should be opened using a piece of leather in the pliers to protect the rod. Do not leave it loose when re-installed as it can unscrew and hung up the cylinder.

The front end of the inner shaft can peen against the spring loaded forward lock up pin in the heavier recoiling Smiths. Had that happen up twice.

My 629 was 2nd hand and after a while it wouldn't hold cock in single action. That was my permission to enter. The gun had a freehand trigger job. The trigger side of the sear was rounded off square and it had been holding cock with an extra heavy rebound spring pushing the trigger into the hammer. I used a Power Custom Series 1 stand to restore the factory angle on the trigger. The gun is well broken in and an 11 or 12 lb rebound spring is plenty for a solid 2 1/4 SA trigger .... for years now

I did wear out the timing. Groups really open up when the cylinder isn't aligned with the barrel. Off center primer strikes are a red flag for me now. Brownells sells an aftermarket hand that is both longer and wider. Beats the Smith hand which is just wider. Nothing will get me to file the timing window bigger.

I had a MIM firing pin fail. The tip cratered causing it to stick in the primer/lock up the gun. A toutch up with a nail file kept me shooting until new pins arrived from Brownells. I complained about MIM here and got a reply that the fancy machined pins will just snap when they fail. I had ordered both. The MIM pin went in the gun, the fancy machined pin went into the grip as spare. Some years ago.

[cajun shooter]

Being a former POST FIREARMS INSTRUCTOR AND ARMORER who attended 5 S&W schools, Sig, Glock, Ruger, Remington and Ithaca armorer schools I can't believe some of the postings in this thread. It's a good thing that these people are not working on any Police weapons or we could have some dead people to discuss.
We had a guy in the Baton Rouge, La. area that was such a butcher on guns that he worked on at all of the gun shows that I finally was able to have a order passed about him. We had so many cops letting this guy touch the departments duty guns and also the off duty guns they carried that it became a crisis. All officers were ordered to report to the range to have their guns checked by us.
The next biggest problem was cops who believe that the very moment they receive the commission, they are also gunsmiths and able to perform what I call, kitchen table gunsmithing.
To answer the question about the extractor rod, they make a special tool that is inserted into the chambers when you tighten this rod up. If you don't have this tool, then you don't use empty hulls. You should use no less than 3 loaded dummy rounds, a case loaded with a bullet minus the powder and primer.
I've seen several S&W's that had to be sent to the factory because of persons prying off the side covers. Once bent, you can't repair this revolver.
I didn't see one correct answer on the side plate screws. They have two of the screws that appear to be of the same length and thus interchangeable, wrong!! The very front screw on the side plate is hand fitted at the factory to fit the yoke. If you have the wrong screw in this position from a previous tear down, the opening and closing of the cylinder will become very stiff and hard. It will be this way or it may just flop open and not ease down as it is designed to work when new. The screw is fitted to ride on the slot's front edge on the yoke.
The posting by Tygar, IIRC it was post #16 should be removed as it is not fit for posting. He states he was taught this by a old Marine, Marines also have idiots they are not immune.
As was posted by several posters, the strain screw should never be loosened from anything but a very tight bottomed out setting. Once left loose, this screw may keep on backing out to the point the gun will not fire. How would you like to drive a car that has all of the tire lug nuts left loose so you and your family could go on vacation.
If you have a gun of any type and use it for protection of yourself and your family, don't touch it to make the trigger lighter. It will get you killed.
I can promise you that if you have to use your gun, you will never remember the trigger pull, the sound of the bullets going off, nothing. Take Care and leave the gun work to those who have the proper training. David

[Petrol & Powder]

Cajun shooter, I agree with all of that and I'll second the dangers of playing with the lockwork of a revolver if you don't know what you are doing. I've fixed several S&W's that had previously been "fixed" at a kitchen table by someone that thought they knew what they were doing. Guns used for self defense should not be played with unless you really know what you're doing.
I do have a question about the use of dummy rounds vs. empty casing to support the extractor when removing/installing the extractor.
I've seen the tool used to support the extractor and it consists of a pair of brass rods connected by a plate that fills the charge holes. Lacking that tool I don't see the difference of using dummy rounds as opposed to empty brass? In fact, the spent, unsized brass actually seems to fit tighter in the charge holes than resized brass. Am I missing something?

[Petrol & Powder]

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...t-prod796.aspx

The tool used to support the extractor.

[dubber123]

Cajun shooter, I agree with all of that and I'll second the dangers of playing with the lockwork of a revolver if you don't know what you are doing. I've fixed several S&W's that had previously been "fixed" at a kitchen table by someone that thought they knew what they were doing. Guns used for self defense should not be played with unless you really know what you're doing.
I do have a question about the use of dummy rounds vs. empty casing to support the extractor when removing/installing the extractor.
I've seen the tool used to support the extractor and it consists of a pair of brass rods connected by a plate that fills the charge holes.
Lacking that tool I don't see the difference of using dummy rounds as opposed to empty brass? In fact, the spent, unsized brass actually seems to fit tighter in the charge holes than resized brass. Am I missing something?

I'd like this answered too. A dummy round wouldn't seem to offer anything at all over an empty case. The head area just forward of the rim is all that supports the star. This sounds very much like a "I was taught this way, so it must be right thing".

[Patrick56]

I'd like this answered too. A dummy round wouldn't seem to offer anything at all over an empty case. The head area just forward of the rim is all that supports the star. This sounds very much like a "I was taught this way, so it must be right thing".

As dubber123 said, an empty case offers all that a dummy would. I have never used any cases or dummies as there is no need to tighten the rod so tight, that the small pins could shear off. The thread pitch and the diameter of the rod should tell you what force is needed.