I finished my home made paper patch mold and cast a few bullets with it. Lots of pictures so I wrote an article with pictures and posted it on my web site.
Hope you enjoy it!
www.rvbprecision.com
I finished my home made paper patch mold and cast a few bullets with it. Lots of pictures so I wrote an article with pictures and posted it on my web site.
Hope you enjoy it!
www.rvbprecision.com
Nice write up and good looking PP boolit. Let us know how it shoots too!
NRA Endowment member, TSRA Life member, Distinguished Rifleman, Viet Nam Vet
Thanks Lyn! I'll let you know how it shoots once the range clears of snow and ice and we can use it again.......Tough winter!
Good job Roy.
My Sheldon is down, has been down! You just gave me the incentive to get it back in time and running again. Never thought using the milling attachment I have to cut the D cutter.
I added an update to the article on how to convert a LEE lube groove mold to a Paper Patch type mold
www.rvbprecision.com
Although I do not paper patch at this time I enjoy learning about things like this. Very interesting and informative article. Very well done both in the presentation and the actual paper patch boolit mold. Thanks for all your informative articles.
Stan..aka smoked turkey
Mark 5:34 And He said to her (Jesus speaking), "Daughter, your faith has made you well. Go in peace and be healed of your affliction."
Do you wish you had a four-banger?
Maybe you could try your hand at copying this old thing.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Antique-Shar...item2edf4c879a
Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.
Now THAT is something I've never seen before. Looks like it wouldn't be to difficult to make either. Thanks for sharing!
rbertalotto:
Is you mould made with just a cavity or do you have an ejector pin to push out the boolit?
I make very similar moulds I call push out moulds and they are very similar to the old Ideal Cylindrical moulds. Most are base pour with the nose form being the ejector as well. I have also made them in nose pour hollow base where the nose form is separate and the hollow base plug is the ejector.
Now that gang mould montana_charlie posted is interesting. I was thinking of multi cavity too but more conventionally using a piece or rectangular bar stock with a row of holes along it and a conventional 4 or 6 cavity sprue plate. I would go with sliding nose forms as ejectors as well.
Nice job on your mould by the way and nice looking boolit. It should shoot well for you.
Longbow
............I've made several boolit, shotgun slug, and core moulds on the lathe, but I like to use a faceplate for that work. You can make up a fixture to hold the blocks, or use a die vise or precision ground angle plates.
Angle plates work similarly. Once one angle plate is indicated the mould blocks are laid in place, then the 2nd angle plate is attached to the faceplate on the opposing side of the blocks. The 2nd angle plate has been modified via D&Ting 3/8-24 in 2 places facing the mould blocks. Once set in place with the bolts snugged on the face plate, the two 3/8" bolts through the threaded holes are snugged up against the other block half.
For drilling/boring multiple cavities, a DTI is placed against one end of the blocks. The adjustable angle plate has the two 3/8" bolts loosened and you move the blocks the required amount, than re-tighten the two 3/8" bolts. Same when using the vice, only you loosen the jaw, move the blocks and re-tighten.
For making my own moulds I also use 6061-T651 alloy, only in rectangular bar form. Two sizes serve for most all blocks. The 2 sizes are 5/8 x 1.5" & 3/4 x 1.5".
The above is a shotgun (12ga) mould. I used 7/8" stock mainly due to requirements of the floating retained core pin. The screw heads seen serve to retain the handles and the core pin plate.
Core pin plate closeup with attaching hardware.
The slug and it's base cavity. It weighs 525grs. More in line with paper patching but made similarly are core moulds for swaging boolits for patching.
LEFT: Top view RIGHT: Bottom view. You have the 3 cavity length rods and lock nuts down the center to vary the weight of the cores. These are carried by the baseplate attached to the blocks. The holes at 9 & 3 allow access to the handle screws. And the 2 flathead screws on the right retain the bottom plate in position.
Core mould with the right block half removed. For the female alignment holes I use stainless tubing, that is pressed into position. The male alignment pins are machined to fit the tubing ID and are also pressed into the blocks.
Father Grand Caster watches over you my brother. Go now and pour yourself a hot one. May the Sacred Silver Stream be with you always
Proud former Shooters.Com Cast Bullet alumnus and plank owner.
"The Republic can survive a Barack Obama, who is, after all, merely a fool. It is less likely to survive a multitude of fools such as those who made him their president."
Shrink the State End the Fed Balance the budget Make a profit Leave an inheritance
..................Like you I also use form tools to make cavities in moulds (like the shotgun mould above) or
...........this one for a full WC slug for a .577 Snider.
I have a RCE swage press and make my own swage dies for paper patched boolits. I use 12L14 steel for the dies and do not bother to case harden them. Plus I use Soviet engineering and make the wall thick! They're step drilled first.
Then to form tool is used. My lathe does not have a DRO so I set up a DTI on the compound feed and on the carriage. The swarf comes out as oily powder. The leaded steel machines to such a fine finish that only minor lapping is required to finish, if at all. The tool is HSS.
The form tool, or 'Spoon'. This one is good for 40 caliber on up, so long as the ogive fits your need. These 3 swaged slugs are for my Uberti Hi-Wall in 38-55 and are of 3 different weights in trying out the new die I'd made.
Here's a bunch ready to go. On the right is a dummy that was used to set the seating depth. Lands engrave 1/8" into the paper. Slugs weigh 301grs (to +.3gr).
The paper patched slugs, benched 10 rounds, 100 yards. Eighteen grains SR4759, WLR primer, Starline 1.125" brass. That 45 cal hole doesn't belong. Sorry, I know this is BP paper patching, but I haven't tried. Well I have, but not much as I don't compete.
..................Buckshot
Last edited by Buckshot; 05-20-2015 at 02:12 AM.
Father Grand Caster watches over you my brother. Go now and pour yourself a hot one. May the Sacred Silver Stream be with you always
Proud former Shooters.Com Cast Bullet alumnus and plank owner.
"The Republic can survive a Barack Obama, who is, after all, merely a fool. It is less likely to survive a multitude of fools such as those who made him their president."
Shrink the State End the Fed Balance the budget Make a profit Leave an inheritance
Nice work. Very nice.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |