Just obtained Shotmaster shotmaker

[smkummer]

The first is of the bottom of the pot . One can see the outline of the heating coils. They appear to be mounted on porcelin mounts. The next shows the On/Off timer switch. This is something Lee should be making for $89 retail don't you think? I did try adding a 1 lb. ingot to the already melted lead it worked but because I didn't turn the timer to full hot it stopped dripping for a moment. That does make the process faster but I want to flux my mixture and I don't know if I can be consistant as far as fluxing.

[Red River Rick]

That shotmaker you have there is made by Shannon, of New Zealand. Pretty simple design yet very effective. I used to have one, made "tons" of shot, mostly # 71/2 and #8.

I found the best alloy for making shot out of this machine is WW, pure Pb doesn't work very well.

The best cooling medium is "Hydraulic Oil", anything with a lower viscosity will create dimples on your shot when it falls into the catch cans. The other trick is to keep the ramp well chalked (use blackboard chalk and not soapstone).

Preheat your ingots by stacking a few of them at the back of the tray. The level or amount of lead in the tray is critical as well.

I have the original instructions, somewhere, when I find them, I'll scan and post them here for reference.

RRR

[scrapcan]

smkummer and REd River Rick,

thanks for the pictures and the additional info. I am always intersted in different designs of shot makers.

[smkummer]

I did notice a few dimples but not more than about %15. OK, I suppose the lead level is critical to get consistant size shot. Maybe that is why when running it dry I have shot that varies in size. If I constantly run a ingot on the rear of the tray, I will have to go with the 30 cal. ammo can to catch the shot. I sure like using a water soluable coolant. Hydraulic oil doesn't sound to friendly for clean-up. I would appreciate the posting of the original manual. Mine appears to have come with nozzles to make 5, 7 1/2 and 8 shot. Do you know if they came with any other sizes? I have a Feltman carnival pnumatic machine gun that takes #2 and I would like to get that nozzle. thanks again. The time is right for this company to start making these again.

[Red River Rick]

smkummer:

That's 15% more fliers in addition to the already bad ones. You can can do better than than.

The lead level and temp are the two major factors that you have control of once you've choosen the nozzle. The smaller the shot - the higher the temp and higher lead level / larger shot needs a lower temp setting and lower lead level. The trick with large shot #2 & #4 is to allow the molten lead to bead more before it drops.

As far as using larger containers for catching the shot, no problem, but ammo cans would be a bit of overkill. I used larger cans than those supplied, about the size that pie filling would come in. It's just a matter of changing the cans more often and NOT letting the cooling medium get overly hot, otherwise poor shot will result as well.

Another critical aspect is keeping the cans as full as possible, overflowing is more like it, and having the lip no more than a 1/4" above the coolant level.

You can choose whatever cooling medium you want, eventually, you'll find out which one works best. That "Running Dry" sernario may cause you more headache's that you might want to bargain for, burning out the element will cause you a lot of grief, and where do you get a replacement? DON'T DO IT.

I'll work on those scans for you.

RRR

[smkummer]

Yes, if you look at the previous pics. you will see that I do run the cans over. Also when I say run dry, actually it just goes below the nozzle level and probably about 1 lb. of lead is still left in the pot. Did you ever just put wheel weights in the shotmaker? Or did you melt them into ingot first?

[Red River Rick]

Unless you want a big mess and real S*^ty looking shot, you best melt your ww's seperately.
The crud and whatever else is mixed into the lead will plug the nozzles, then you'll have lot's of fun.

Melting, cleaning and fluxing the lead prior to any casting operation is critical and I strongly recommend you do this before making your shot as well. Having your lead supply readily available in Lyman or RCBS style ingots will prove invaluable.

RRR

[Red River Rick]

I found those scanned images of the brochure. Perhaps if I send them to "45 Nut" he'll be able to post them as a "Sticky" for future reference.

RRR

[heathydee]

I strongly agree with everything Red River Rick has said. I used three of these things years ago before I made my own gas fired one, modelled on the Shotmaster's dimensions . Pre melting and fluxing your lead will help. If you are prepared to then make small ingots of around 6 to 8 onces you will be able to add them to the shotmaster as it is dropping shot , without freezing the melt pool, and thus stopping production.
Good quality shot requires constant temperature and level of molten lead and a uniform drop to the coolant which cannot become overheated.

[45nut]

I found those scanned images of the brochure. Perhaps if I send them to "45 Nut" he'll be able to post them as a "Sticky" for future reference.

RRR

no problem.

[chrisx1]

Great about dropping shot in general...thanks for all the tips!

[45nut]

[45nut]

[Red River Rick]

Ken:

Thanks for posting the pics.


I went rumaging around the reloading room and found some of the shot I made with my ShotMaker, years ago.

You can clearly see some dimpling on some of the shot, some deformation, but generally, pretty good. One heck of a lot cheaper than buying factory shot, and it works just as good.

If you really want to cull out the bad ones, run them down a plate of glass set about a 10 degree angle. All the good ones will roll down and the bad ones get kinda hung up. The appropriate mesh screen will really make a difference.

First pic is of some #7 shot the other pic is #2.

RRR

[smkummer]

Isn't the internet great? Both the factory instructions and someone's first hand account of operation. Was that artical in a handloader magazine? And if so what issue? Plus a seasoned pro such as Red River Rick to personally answer questions! I know now that placing 1/2 lb. ingots on the rear of the unit will give me a constant flow of shot. Now I too can become a "seasoned" shotmaker almost overnight. Knowledge is power. Any investors watching should be tracking down this company, investing to get it restarted and looking to produce this unit at say a $199 retail price? Maybe Lee is already researching the idea.

[rmedus]

Now he tells us......

[hivoltfl]

I WANT ONE!!!!!! anybody know where I can get one?

Rick

[phyre]

I just got a shotmaker and didn't get any instructions with it. I only have the unit and the extra nozzles. After trying to make shot by guessing what to do I turned to the internet.

The discussion here and especially the images of the original manual brightened my day.

Thanks to everyone.

[macivor]

i have a shotmaster shot maker for sale. Its just like the one pictured in this thread. It was my dad's as he was a trapshooter and i don't know what to ask for it. I may keep it for sentimental reasons if it's not worth selling.

thx
macivor

ps i heard aviation hydraulic oil is a good coolant...what exact type to use, i do not know.

[Paul Eagen]

With the price of shot now $40 a bag here in Michigan I am going to make my own shot maker. I'm thinking that the tips of a mig welder already have the right size hole in them for the drippers. And I was told that you can use the heating elements from a stove or oven and bend them into any shape you want to fit whatever type of pots that I can find. any thoughtsA