RepackboxInline FabricationTitan ReloadingLoad Data
Lee PrecisionWidenersSnyders JerkyMidSouth Shooters Supply
Reloading Everything RotoMetals2
Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 63

Thread: Heating Molds on a hot plate

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    452

    Heating Molds on a hot plate

    I have just a quick question. I just picked up a new hot plate to preheat my molds. It is a solid top 900 watt unit. I have aluminum molds. If I recall correctly, aluminum molds can warp from too high heat. I don't have a thermometer to read the heat of the hot plate. So what is the best way to make sure my Accurate mold does not get overheated? I read somewhere of putting lead on the plate and using that as an indicator that the plate does not get too hot. So is that a good idea? As long as the lead doesn't melt, the plate is not too hot?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Atlanta, NY 14808
    Posts
    2,166
    You got it. And the hot lead, when added to your pot will not chill the alloy already there. I'll bet you are the kind of guy who would notice the setting where lead melted and take care never to exceed that again, too. My hotplates are the coil type. I believe the solid kind may have a thermal limiter like my wife's cook top. I have no idea what they are set at-they will melt pewter, but don't tell her I know that.
    Bill
    Micah 6:8
    He hath shewed thee, O man, what is good; and what doth the LORD require of thee, but to do justly, and to love mercy, and to walk humbly with thy God?

    "I don't have hobbies - I'm developing a robust post-apocalyptic skill set"
    I may be discharged and retired but I'm sure I did not renounce the oath that I solemnly swore!

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    TCFAN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Missouri Ozarks
    Posts
    1,139
    I run my hot plate on the hi setting. Don't know what the wattage is.I use a old 10 inch table saw blade to spread out the heat. I have never warped a aluminum mold.My aluminum molds are NOE, Accurate and Lee.I keep a surface thermometer on the top of the blade and it never gets over 350 deg. or so..................Terry

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    452
    Quote Originally Posted by TCFAN View Post
    I run my hot plate on the hi setting. Don't know what the wattage is.I use a old 10 inch table saw blade to spread out the heat. I have never warped a aluminum mold.My aluminum molds are NOE, Accurate and Lee.I keep a surface thermometer on the top of the blade and it never gets over 350 deg. or so..................Terry
    So just a cheap grill surface thermometer will work for this?! Such a simple answer! Thanks

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    East Arkansas where I55 & I40 come together and then split
    Posts
    694
    I have one of the flat top hot plates the wife got me at Wally World. I didn't know how hot it was getting and got my mold hot and was casting to beat the band.
    I put several ingots on the surface to warm while casting. about 10 minutes later I had a big stinking mess. He ingots had melted and run all over the bench. I prolly
    need one of those surface thermometers. But after that mess up I don't heat ingots any more.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master Retumbo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    743
    I mounted one of these up side down on ceramic stand-offs. IIRC mine is rated at about 250watt

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	channel.jpg 
Views:	114 
Size:	11.4 KB 
ID:	133377

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master
    bangerjim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    out of here, wandering somewhere in the SW.
    Posts
    10,163
    Once you find out where your dial is at, mark it! My flat-top is a lab unit at 1500 watts.

    Once I knew the temp setting, I just use that every time. I hope yours has a setting dial!!!!

    Putting lead ingots on your hotplate also saves time when feeding your casting pot! Bring them up to almost melting and they dispear fast when you put them in the pot. As always, use extreme catuion when picking them up!!!!!!!!

    I have never warped any of my 35 or so Al molds.

    banger-j

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master
    white eagle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    718 miles E. of Wall Drug
    Posts
    6,173
    I also use a clam type hot plate for my molds as well
    just plug your hot plate and lead furnace in at the same time when the alloy is melted the mold should be at temp
    Hit em'hard
    hit em'often

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    MT
    Posts
    479
    I use a hot plate I got from Wal-Mart. It is not a coil type but the top has little ridges on it. I got some lead splatter on it and don't know how to clean it off. Any ideas? For the moment I put a saw blade on top because the little bit of lead splatter got on the bottom of my mould. How do I clean that off?

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master
    bangerjim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    out of here, wandering somewhere in the SW.
    Posts
    10,163
    Quote Originally Posted by bigarm View Post
    I use a hot plate I got from Wal-Mart. It is not a coil type but the top has little ridges on it. I got some lead splatter on it and don't know how to clean it off. Any ideas? For the moment I put a saw blade on top because the little bit of lead splatter got on the bottom of my mould. How do I clean that off?
    Set your plate on high until the lead spatter melts and then wipe it off quickly with a rag or leather glove. Same with mold.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master


    500MAG's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    1,230
    I use an electric junction box with a metal cover on it with the end cut out as sort of a mould oven. I have it on top of a hot plate. It will hold 2 moulds with the handles sticking out and I place some lead ingots on top of it to preheat them.
    "If you could kick the person in the pants responsible for most of your trouble, you wouldn't sit for a month."
    Theodore Roosevelt

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
    Shooter6br's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Warminster Pa. ( North of Filthydelphia)
    Posts
    1,806
    I use a hot plate and a homemade box(electric box) on top.I use a Harbor Freight IR themometer to check temp

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    184
    Quote Originally Posted by Retumbo View Post
    I mounted one of these up side down on ceramic stand-offs. IIRC mine is rated at about 250watt

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	channel.jpg 
Views:	114 
Size:	11.4 KB 
ID:	133377
    What the check is that? Looks like a useful idea.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
    A pause for the COZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    633
    I just keep mine set at 50% power.
    Been working great. Put the molds on when I turn on the pot. Both are ready at the same time.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master

    Land Owner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Mims, FL
    Posts
    1,864
    I use a Mr. Coffee with the resevoir cut off. I don't know what its temp is, not nearly the temp of the pot, and until I read this thread, had not thought to use a piece of lead as a test strip nor to pre-heat the lead before putting in the pot...both substantially good ideas. I learn something here every day.
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
    Bullwolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Reno, Nevada
    Posts
    1,136
    I put an old skill saw blade on top of an electric element hotplate.



    I keep ingots on the hot plate as well, to pre-warm them. Linotype ingots go slushy sooner (at a lower temp) than WW or pure lead ingots on an overly warm hotplate - ask me how I know this.

    Despite over warming moulds to the point of melting ingots on the skill saw blade next to them, I have yet to warp an aluminum or steel mould using a hot plate. I also use the hot plate to heat cycle brand new moulds a few times, before casting with them.

    I use a coffee can lid (mold oven) on top of the hot plate if it's cold, or very windy outside



    When I add the lid, it often requires that I turn down the heat some. (or else ingots melt) The lid really helps contain the heat on a windy day.



    - Bullwolf

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy tryNto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    South Central Utah
    Posts
    273
    Quote Originally Posted by 500MAG View Post
    I use an electric junction box with a metal cover on it with the end cut out as sort of a mould oven. I have it on top of a hot plate. It will hold 2 moulds with the handles sticking out and I place some lead ingots on top of it to preheat them.
    I will be making up one of these to go with my Hot Plate.
    Casting, Reloading & Shooting

  18. #18
    Boolit Master

    Land Owner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Mims, FL
    Posts
    1,864
    Bullwolf...that is a nifty idea! That makes three ideas I have learned here today. The Medical Community says your brain gets a fold for each when new ideas are experienced. My brain is warping here so fast that I better stop reading before my face implodes.
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy

    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    A State of Confusion
    Posts
    258
    Quote Originally Posted by GrayTech View Post
    What the check is that? Looks like a useful idea.
    That is a strip heater... meant to be mounted to a flat plate, so if you mount it under a piece of aluminum plate, you have a 'hot plate'... lol

  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    268
    I use an old electric griddle to heat mine. I put lead ingots on it and my molds. Turned all the way up hours later if i drop an ingot in, the temp does drop some. Still takes maybe 5 or 6 casts to start dropping right.

Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check