RotoMetals2Titan ReloadingLoad DataWideners
MidSouth Shooters SupplySnyders JerkyRepackboxInline Fabrication
Reloading Everything Lee Precision
Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: Making a Primer Seating Die???

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    NC Arkansas
    Posts
    1,413

    Making a Primer Seating Die???

    I have a 38 Spec. partial die set. Need primer seating die, bullet seating die, and a de-capping pin. Am considering making the dies and have a question about the primer seater die. Does the top end of the die have to extend above the rim so far? Would it work if it only extended 1/4-3/8 inch?

    Dummy me, forgot to specify that these are 310 dies. The priming dies I see in pictures online seem to be about 1/2 inch long above the rim cut.
    Last edited by ulav8r; 03-04-2015 at 12:58 AM.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Atlanta, NY 14808
    Posts
    2,168
    Why should it need to be any deeper than a pistol primer? It's not like the primer needs a running start.
    Micah 6:8
    He hath shewed thee, O man, what is good; and what doth the LORD require of thee, but to do justly, and to love mercy, and to walk humbly with thy God?

    "I don't have hobbies - I'm developing a robust post-apocalyptic skill set"
    I may be discharged and retired but I'm sure I did not renounce the oath that I solemnly swore!

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy tryNto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    South Central Utah
    Posts
    273
    No die needed to seat Primer, it seats with the Shell Holder on my RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme.
    If doing a bunch of loads I use the RCBS hand priming tool.


    May be you are wanting info about the sizing die?


    PS
    May be you are talking about 310 Dies?
    Last edited by tryNto; 03-04-2015 at 12:56 AM. Reason: Another thought
    Casting, Reloading & Shooting

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    NC Arkansas
    Posts
    1,413
    See edit to op. I forgot to specify that these are 310 dies.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master Garyshome's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    South of the Mason Dixon line
    Posts
    2,165
    What the heck is a primer seating die? Now that's a new one on me. I am sure that I don't want one.


    Good PR work is under rated and over looked.
    I just trained my wife right. She thinks it is SUPPOSED to look like that!

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    1,200
    It's probably longer just for case support..sort of like a trough the case lies in. Just curious..how are you machining these..turning on lathe & milling?

  7. #7
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    NC Arkansas
    Posts
    1,413
    lathe, hacksaw and file.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master Pavogrande's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Dacula Ga formerly san josie calif
    Posts
    615
    It needs to be longer to clear the handle adapter which is about 3/8" thick. perhaps not as long as factory but more than just primer depth.
    Hope your lathe will cut 30tpi --
    I spend a lot of time saving $10 but this project is a bit of work --
    Well, perhaps not if you have the right cutters --

    Oops, silly old me I misread and got the wrong end -- often a fatal error.
    I think a bit shorter would be ok but the length does help align the case in the holder.
    Last edited by Pavogrande; 03-04-2015 at 03:52 AM.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    216
    Lyman sells parts for their die sets, and 38/357 is still a current production 310 die set, I'd give them a call.

    The PC or priming chamber is probably the most difficult die to make. You seem to be missing 1/2 the set. Lyman 310 die sets came in different flavors. Earlier sets came with either a small or large decapping die, later sets used a CMR die that Combined the decapping with the MR die. You could use a small decappping die from any set. If all you are missing is the pin itself, Lyman sells a pack of them for a few dollars.

    A picture of what you have would go a long way in soliciting helpful advice, applicable solutions.

    Nitro

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    3,901
    The priming die in the 310 sets is the best there is, my preferred method of priming, good feel, lots of power, if making one, just copy the 310 one.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    216
    Quote Originally Posted by MT Chambers View Post
    The priming die in the 310 sets is the best there is, my preferred method of priming, good feel, lots of power, if making one, just copy the 310 one.
    I agree.

    And if you look at the various "Ram Prime" tools (RCBS, LEE or Lyman) for priming on a 7/8-14 press, they are just scaled up versions of the 310 priming chamber. I use the 310 priming chamber with my Tru-Line Jr, with a spacer mounted on top of the shell holder to push on the priming punch.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_20150306_070129.jpg  

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    3,901
    My 310 priming die is used on the 310 handles, lotsa feel!!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check