Converting a gas checked mold to a plain base?

[tryNto]

I have removed the bevel base off of a 200 grain .45 caliber Lee mold with a hobby knife. It worked just fine, if the bases were a bit out of perfect round, the sizer die swaged them back round. Out of a Wilson barreled 1911, they would do less than one inch at 25 yards, when I was up to the task. None of my other molds did any better. I wouldn't be afraid to remove a gascheck ring the same way.

I used this same method with a Lee mold GC 300 gr .452.
Xacto knife and some very fine (320) Emery cloth on a dowel and paitence.


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[Hamish]

Converting a gas-checked base-pour to a PP is the worst thing you could do.

I would like to hear what prompts you to express this opinion.

[303Guy]

I have a Lee 180gr .311 mold that I would like to modify. Setting it up in a four jaw is fine but what does one do with unremoveable handles? I can use this mold for a paper patch core but the base edge is horrible. My thoughts are to give it a small chamfer so the trailing edge is not formed by the mold/sprue junction. In my case I think opening it up to bore diameter only would be the way to go.

[Rifle 57]

I have a Lee 180gr .311 mold that I would like to modify. Setting it up in a four jaw is fine but what does one do with unremoveable handles? I can use this mold for a paper patch core but the base edge is horrible. My thoughts are to give it a small chamfer so the trailing edge is not formed by the mold/sprue junction. In my case I think opening it up to bore diameter only would be the way to go.

If the handles wont come off then you can set it up in a mill with the bore of the mold dialed in dead true with the spindle of your mill then use a 5/16 end mill [ .3125] dia. and plunge straight in to your depth that you need to go. You could use a drill press if it has a good straight spindle on it.

[Steve Steven]

You can remove the LEE handles by CAREFULLY measuring where the pins are pressed in on the bottom, transfer the location to the top, drill down with 1/8" drill just enough to find where the hole is for the pin, then drive out the pin with a suitable sized punch.
Steve

[country gent]

AT work the lathes had enough swing to leave lee handles on and let them swing. Had to run slower due to balance issues though. The can be set up in mill and a boring head used or small cutter and circle pocket on cnc. If leaving handles on make sure the blocks are closed correctly and fully in the vise or chuck as you cant get them into as deep.

[LongRangeAir]

I wanted a slightly lighter bullet for the Custom Dyotat100 .257 Air Rifle while shooting the 80gr RanchDog from NOE with the gas check shank. ( Its' my Suppressed, Silent Wild Hog, Yotal Dog gun). I simply put the mold into the mill vise and removed the amount I wanted. It is a superb shooter. With many groups in the 2 thenths of an inch zone.

Have done the same with the Lyman .257420 molds. In fact, this has become so popular, that I have been ask by several AG shooters to do the same for their molds.

I have been in touch with Swede over at NOE and they are very seriously of making the mold pre-milled available to the public. (I am removing the gas check, and the last driving band.) This gives a lighter bullet for Air Gunning, while not having the base of the bullet actually engraved by the rifling. This has proven the most accurate so far.

The 80 gr. mold can be moded to throw at 60 to 70 grains in this fashion. I can see no reason it cant' work just as well for Powder Burners. In any caliber.

KnifeMaker