Partially sportorized Reminton 1917

[Screwbolts]

"Thanks,

I will try to keep an eye on it, but the closing time is around the same time I land. Depending on how I'm reading the closing time. "


You can put your max bid on it anytime, and if someone wants it more than you just say goodby.

[lpspinner]

Dave...are there any pressure studies done on the 1917 receiver? I know P.O Ackley done some testing, but don't know if he covered this model.

Screwbolts....yes, I'll keep an eye on it during my layover. I normally like to wait till the end to not force my hand on having to pay too much or not enough.

[W.R.Buchanan]

lpspinner: goto http://hammertap.auctionstealer.com/...fm?timeout=yes

Sign up and place a bid that you are comfortable with .. the tool will drop your bid in 10-20 seconds before the end of the auction, and will only bid it up high enough to beat any other bids, and not to exceed your max.

You will find out if you got the item or not at your convenience, by email.

No need to sit and watch an auction. This tool does it for you.

On another note: Unless you are a really big boy I would rethink the idea if converting this gun to a caliber such as you describe. There is a price to pay on the back end of those guns and it will be anything but pleasant to shoot. It will be even harder to sell if you want to get rid of it.

I would suggest either .375 or .400 Whelen as a easy conversion. Whereas either of these other calibers will not reach 3000 fps you will be able to pull the trigger twice in a row without having to recalibrate your eyeballs.

Randy

[lpspinner]

So I finally had time to pull it out and look at it. There's surface rust from a moist cold garage. Nothing a little fine steel wool won't take care of.

I originally thought this was a Remington M1917, but it's really a Winchester M1917. Here are some pictures.




As you can see the ears have been milled off and surface rust is present.


Another shot to compare the height of the front and rear of the receiver.

[lpspinner]

OK, I had a little time to do a little more research. In regards to Bolt Thurst, would that be the thrust against the bolt face or against the lugs?

If it's against the bolt face, then would a 338 case distribute the thurst over a greater surface as the diameter is slightly larger then that of a 30-06?

As for PSI, I looked up some pressures in the latest Hodgden manual. In the .338-06 180grs, most of the pressure are in the 60K+ range, the 30-06 rounds using a medium weight (180gr) bullets, pressures are in the high 40 to mid 50k's. the 338 LM is in the upper 50's +

These are max pressure, so starting or normal shooting rounds would be less.

No I'm not a big guy, just an average 200lb person. I figured a good muzzle brake would eat up some of the felt recoil.

[Geppetto]

As I understand it, and someone please correct me if I am wrong:

Bolt thrust is the force that the cartridge exerts on the bolt face, which in turn is the thrust that the locking lugs secure. So the total bolt thrust is a product of the area that the pressure of the cartridge is being applied to. So the bolt thrust increases with an increased case diameter. Ultimately the interior dimensions of the case are the area that the pressure is applied to. So your statement of "would a 338 case distribute the thurst over a greater surface as the diameter is slightly larger then that of a 30-06?" is incorrect, because it is pressure, not load. So with a greater area, the same PSI results in greater total load. That's how hydraulics work.

In theory the brass will expand and stick in the chamber, which reduces total bolt thrust, but I wouldn't count on that happening. If the brass or chamber becomes oiled, then the brass may not stick in the chamber at all. As I see it, if you are building the rifle, you have to assume that at some point you, or your kid, or your neighbor could put a full bore factory load in it, so it should be able to handle it. (that's just my personal opinion! Lots of people have trapdoors and marlins and haven't blown themselves up yet).

For further reading, the wikipedia link on bolt thrust is a reasonable resource. From all of the research and reading I've done for various rifles and caliber conversions, the bolt thrust should be one of the primary concerns for changing to a substantially different caliber. The pressure of most rifle rounds is similar, but the thrust is a primary factor in the suitability of the action. The following is worth reading also and pertinent to the discussion. http://www.eabco.com/WSM01.htm

I hope the above was useful, and didn't just cause more confusion.

[M-Tecs]

Lilja has good info on bolt thrust

http://www.riflebarrels.com/articles...g_strength.htm


Bolt Thrust

Bolt thrust is easy to calculate. Only two inputs are required. They are peak chamber pressure in PSI and as mentioned, the inside area of the case head that the gas pressure can work on. The formula then is:
THRUST=AREA*CPSI Where:
AREA=3.1416*(HS/2)^2
HS=the diameter of the inside of the case head.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Some suggestions for you:

1. Buy, borrow or rent gauges to check the barrel wear and identify exactly what you've got. A good gunsmith should have these and so do many of the collectors of US WWII M1's, 1903's and M1917's, should you should be able to find a set reasonably easy.
2. Look at the crown/muzzle under good light and see if it's damaged in any way.
3. Clean the barrel good with Ed's Red and with copper removing solvents, get any and all crud out of there and see what the lands look like.
4. Load up some quality reloads with a 175 grain match bullet and see how she shoots of a locked down rest like a lead sled. Just point at a big paper target at 100, don't move the gun at all and squeeze off 5 rounds.

Once the barrel is thoroughly assessed:

1. If the barrel needs replacement, investigate the cost of the various options offered here.
2. Start with the CMP Criterion barrel. Those Criterion barrels are excellent and the CMP can parkerize the rifle for you while they install the barrel very affordably. This is assuming they will take on a sporter. They would know how to remove and install a barrel on a M1917.
3. Investigate all other options, getting pricing as you go.
4. While you're investigating getting the work done, get pricing on the refinishing as well.
5. BTW, about the scope mounts and the flat rear receiver. A gunsmith with a milling machine should be able to handle that easily in a couple different ways. I would follow what he suggests. She likely kept the rear receiver flat to make it easier for her to mount a mechanical peep sight.

You may find the costs will dictate which way you go.

[pacomdiver]

one thing you need to remember if your shooting a 338 lapua with a brake is "keep your mouth open when you pull the trigger", the concussion will give you an instant headache if you dont. I found this out the first few shots I took with mine. no one wants to be within 25 feet of me when I shoot mine

I have 2 1917 sporters I saved that have heavy barrels on them now, ones a 300 win mag for long range and a 300 wsm for my wife