H&R Stub Barrel

[Texas by God]

It's 7 lbs as a 9mm. Excuse the mud & scratches; the old River Rat earned them!

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[firebyprolong]

You know I never weighed it. I'd say with scope it was a little heavier than one of the slim barrel 410 but not much. Believe it or not that's an 18 inch tube. I was going to go 16 but after measuring I decided that 18 was short and light enough. at 18 inches it really muffles a 45 acp way down, it's just loud enough you want ear plugs. Kinda feels like your throwing softball really fast. I probably put 500 rounds though it before I took it to a fun shoot and got talked out of it by a buddy. One of those" I didnt ask you if you wanted to sell it. I said how much would it take for you to sell it to me?" Type deals.

Lost that scope in the deal too. It was a sears marked weaver k 2.5 that had a broken vertical hair that I replaced with a the smallest needle I could find. Put myself into a post and hair reticle for the princely sum of 20 bucks. You could almost see it in the dark, great combo for inside 100 yard work. It was a fun rifle, I have a couple more blanks and I bought a 45acp reamer so I might just build another. I really want a 357 in about that same set up so I think that's first.

[Texas by God]

I experienced barrel creep so I doubled up on the retention srews. I think I've got it now. This is at 12 yds and I was aiming at the .22 group in the center of the plate.

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[Texas by God]

I'm epoxying a scope base on the chamber today. Might as well see how well I can shoot it.

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[Whiterabbit]

What silver solder are you guys using?

Can I use any old thing or would you recommend a particular product? I use silvalloy 355 but it is very very expensive, quite a bit would be used for something like a barrel lug.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...r-prod584.aspx

What about other hi-temp solders I can purchase at welding shops? Not advised?

Only thing more expensive than silvalloy is buying a handi barrel to stub. They seem to be made of solid silver themselves these days!

[John Taylor]

If you thread the barrel and stub then Loctite is all you need.

[Whiterabbit]

I thought you said you made your stub by soldering a homemade lug to a barrel or barrel section?

[John Taylor]

I thought you said you made your stub by soldering a homemade lug to a barrel or barrel section?

Most of the time I do but there has been a few times that I threaded them together. I usually thread doubles, much easier than making a mono block.

[Whiterabbit]

Hi John, I meant in reference to this reply:

I have made more than a few barrels for H&Rs by making a new lug and silver soldering it to the barrel. This includes making a new extractor to fir the cartridge. The easiest way is to stub the barrel and thread them together, I would not rely on a heat shrink or press fit.

It's not a question of a stub or threading, but underlug soldering. Surely you do not thread and install the lug to the barrel or stub like any scope rail or similar?

I can make a lug, I can solder it to a barrel. Sounds like a great plan for my needs. However, where I am weak is understanding how strong the joint needs to be to be reliable and safe.

The plan would be for an SB-1 frame for low pressure pistol cartridges, but it would be interesting to know if it's any different between an SB1 barrel vs SB2.

If I take a barrel blank and chamber it, or a take-off barrel, and I want to carve a lug out of some alloy steel and solder it to the bottom of that barrel, do you have a recommended solder to use? I assume I can't just use a low temp 96-4 tin-silver solder, that I would want ot use something stronger like a silvalloy, correct? Do you have a recommendation for solder? There are lots of hi-temp options at welding shops for brazing.

[ulav8r]

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...r-prod584.aspx

[Whiterabbit]

Right, that's the stuff I linked to in post 45. I started with two questions. #1, is silvalloy good enough? And #2 if it is good enough, are there other alloys (that I can source local) that are also strong enough that I can use? There are lots of hi temp brazing alloys out there. But have a different alloy content and it is not clear to me how this affects strength or performance when bonding alloy steel. I figure you guys have some insight.

I should apologize for not being clear enough when I first asked, but I am really interested in what you guys use for this purpose.

[Texas by God]

I'm epoxying a scope base on the chamber today. Might as well see how well I can shoot it.

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I dropped an old Simmons 4x on it and dialed it in at 40 yds. The group on the right is Geco 115 fmj. The group on the left is DRT 80gr hp. The other pic is a box at 100 yds. The top left aiming point is on the flap stapled to the backstop. Look close and you can see two shots there and one on the box body. About a 4" group with the Geco. I'm suprised at the flat trajectory!
Time to try reloads!

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[John Taylor]

Hi John, I meant in reference to this reply:



It's not a question of a stub or threading, but underlug soldering. Surely you do not thread and install the lug to the barrel or stub like any scope rail or similar?

I can make a lug, I can solder it to a barrel. Sounds like a great plan for my needs. However, where I am weak is understanding how strong the joint needs to be to be reliable and safe.

The plan would be for an SB-1 frame for low pressure pistol cartridges, but it would be interesting to know if it's any different between an SB1 barrel vs SB2.

If I take a barrel blank and chamber it, or a take-off barrel, and I want to carve a lug out of some alloy steel and solder it to the bottom of that barrel, do you have a recommended solder to use? I assume I can't just use a low temp 96-4 tin-silver solder, that I would want ot use something stronger like a silvalloy, correct? Do you have a recommendation for solder? There are lots of hi-temp options at welding shops for brazing.

I use a high strength silver solder that melts around 1100 degrees. The lug can also be welded on. I usually make the lugs from pieces of barrel blanks. I have lots of cut off ends of barrels so it seem a good source of 4140 steel. Problem with welding is if it cools to fast the barrel might be to hard to chamber.
On accuracy, I did have one that seemed to not shoot good and it turned out to be the forearm. With the forearm off it shot great.

[Wolfer]

I ordered an extra 410 barrel for my NEF pardner 410 yesterday. Not sure what caliber it's going to be in yet. It will be 45 colt, 38-40 wcf, 38 special, 32 H&R. Depends on what donor barrel I come up with. Ive long wanted a poor mans rook rifle in 32 H&R but have no real use for one other than fun and cheap. ( just like me )

45 colt would be the most practical for me. It would require little to no work on the extractor. Green mtn has 40 cal gunsmith special blanks right now very reasonable.
Decisions decisions!

[oldred]

Hello Folks, I've heard of boring out the stub and turning the breech end of the barrel to a 2-3 thousandths interference fit, then freeze the barrel and heat the stub and put them together, sort of like putting bearings on an axel shaft.

Thought I would touch on something here since interference fit would certainly work if done properly, however, either heat OR freeze one part but don't do both! While the idea may seem sound, shrink one and expand the other, it usually results in problems due to the rapid chilling of one part with simultaneous rapid heating of the other. While I have never used this method on any gun part I have during the last 45 years used it on countless machine bearings and bushings, from tiny bearings/bushings/shafts to some over 3 ft in diameter and requiring a crane to set in place, we learned many years ago to either heat or freeze but NOT do both with freezing being the better choice usually. Now about freezing, tossing an item in a refrigerator freezer or deep freeze will accomplish almost nothing unless it's aluminum or brass, dry ice will however normally work wonders and should be all you need for a really tight fit

[JohnSmiles]

I want a barrel for my HR in 327 Federal. Is there anyone qualified currently offering to build custom barrels for the HR?

[John Taylor]

I'm doing one now in 32 S&W. I do about one a month. Just got the reamer in to do a 380 auto.

[Texas by God]

I've been thinking of getting another Yildiz folder just to stub. I wish they made a 20 gauge.

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[John Taylor]

latest 32 S&W with a welded lug. Extractor, no ejector.

[1989toddm]

latest 32 S&W with a welded lug. Extractor, no ejector.

Tig or mig welded?