H&R Stub Barrel

[Tatume]

Hello Folks,

I've seen several methods of building stubbed barrels, so I'm wondering what is the best. I've heard of boring out the stub and turning the breech end of the barrel to a 2-3 thousandths interference fit, then freeze the barrel and heat the stub and put them together, sort of like putting bearings on an axel shaft. I've also heard of threading the barrel and stub and screwing them together. There may be other methods.

I've also heard that it is very easy to misalign the parts and end up with junk. I'm not sure if this happens during the lathe operations or the assembly of the two components.

Anyway, if you know anything about this process, and care to weigh in, please do.

I'm aware that at least one member here makes his living doing these jobs. I am NOT ASKING for him to give away his shop secrets. I do not want to take business away from anybody. I'm only asking for common knowledge among amateurs.

Thanks, Tom

[Tackleberry41]

You just need to cut the threads straight for things to line up right. Only way I have done it is drill and tap a stub. You have to make the piece to hold the hand guard on.

[John Taylor]

I have made more than a few barrels for H&Rs by making a new lug and silver soldering it to the barrel. This includes making a new extractor to fir the cartridge. The easiest way is to stub the barrel and thread them together, I would not rely on a heat shrink or press fit.

[ASSASSIN]

Barrel stubs are a specialty of mine and I feel the best way of joining the stub and barrel together, is to thread them...

For the H&R and CVA rifles, the barrel is threaded all the way through the barrel stub, until it butts tight up against the standing breech face...

For the T/C Contender and Encore barrel stubs, the barrel is stopped .003 short of touching the breech face...

Yes, there are several different ways that the barrel and stub can be joined together, but I feel that threading them is the most accurate way to do this...



357 Maximum...



357 Maximum...




357 Maximum...



357 Maximum...




243 White Express...


30-06...

[ASSASSIN]

7X30 Waters...




338 White Express...



7X30 Waters...



30X357 Maximum...

[M-Tecs]

What caliber? Interference fits will work for low pressure rounds but I wouldn't trust it for the larger high pressure cases. Threading is what I recommend and what I do.

[.30-06 fan]

ASSASSIN

very beautiful rifles. there is something to be said for the stumpy handi or other, aesthetically very pleasing with wonderful barrel harmonics.

[ASSASSIN]

Thank You .30-06fan....

[bruce drake]

nice work!

[pietro]

Anyway, if you know anything about this process, and care to weigh in, please do.

Whatever you do, take care to determine WHICH type receiver you want to place the stubbed barrel on, as there are two invisibly different types - the cast iron SB-1 (NO, NO, NO, NO ! ) or the forged steel SB-2.

The factory SB-1 is only suitable for muzzleloading, shotgun and pistol caliber (.357, etc) chambered barrels.

The factory SB-2 is suitable for the above, plus higher intensity CF rifle cartridges (.243, .308, .444, etc).


.

[John Taylor]

The 12 gauge has about 5,000 pounds of bolt thrust so it will handle most any black powder cartridge. The 45-70 has about the same amount of bolt thrust. A 308 has about 8,000 pounds of bolt thrust and will blow holes in the primer if using the old shotgun firing pin. H&R made 30-30 rifle way back before the SB-2 frames.

[Arisaka99]

Forgive my ignorance, but what is a stubbed barrel? What's the advantage?

[John Taylor]

A stub barrel is where the old barrel is cut off , bored out and a new barrel inserted in. It can be soldered or threaded in depending on how much pressure the cartridge has. This is usually used on brake open guns where there is a lug on the barrel for the pivot point. Also used on doubles. Sometimes the stub is referred as a mono block where the lug and barrel ( or the part holding the barrel) are machined or forged as one part.

[GhostHawk]

Advantage is

A H&R is gone, no longer making and fitting barrels.

B Many people have one or more rifles. But lack a caliber they would like.
For me the missing one was .45lc. I have 9mm, .357, .444Marlin (44mag only more so)

So the one fairly easy way to create a barrel in a caliber you want is to start with an old cheap H&R or NEF shotgun barrel. Put a barrel in it.

Some weld them in, some epoxy, silver solder, threads. There are a lot of ways to do it.

Done right, for example I have a 9mm stub job that I got cheap as it had a few "issues"

But once problems solved it would put 9mm ammo into a 2" circle at 100 yards all day long. Being short, reasonably light weight it makes a nice woods walking gun.

Take a single barrel like that, an action it fits, add a 12 ga barrel. Possibly a longer range caliber like a .223. You have a backpack gun that is extremely versatile.

No it is not a semi auto, does not throw lead like a machine gun. So yes many people would not be interested. Me I happen to like guns that will put one well aimed, timed shot exactly where you tell it to go. And if you can also put a shotgun barrel on it?
Well to me that is kind of the cat's meow.

It ain't an AR or an AK. But if I wanted one badly enough it would get me one.

[JimB..]

Whatever you do, take care to determine WHICH type receiver you want to place the stubbed barrel on, as there are two invisibly different types - the cast iron SB-1 (NO, NO, NO, NO ! ) or the forged steel SB-2.

The factory SB-1 is only suitable for muzzleloading, shotgun and pistol caliber (.357, etc) chambered barrels.

The factory SB-2 is suitable for the above, plus higher intensity CF rifle cartridges (.243, .308, .444, etc).


.

Just to clear some things up. I’ve been reading a lot on this subject lately, and I believe that neither receiver is cast iron, they are both steel but have different heat treatment.

As for the difference being invisible, the only consistent difference I know of is under the buttstock, the upper receiver in the attached is an sb2, the lower is an SB1.

I believe this to be correct, but heck I learned most of it on the internet so who knows.

[Texas by God]

This settles it. My 12 ga Topper is going to become something fun!

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[John Taylor]

I have been doing this for a while and was making them into muzzle loaders way before the inlines hit the market. Smallest cartridge so far has been a 32 ACP. Latest one for myself is a rifled 28 ? gauge. This was sort of reverse engineering. I started with a 28 gauge brass shell and figured the bullet size that would fit, .590". Made a barrel with the groove diameter to match. Next step is to make the lug and silver solder it to the barrel. This will go on an old Hercules action that was given to me because it didn't have a barrel. Just need some time so I can finish it.

[OlDeuce]

Hahaha just did a Double Rifle with 20" winchester 30-30 barrels ! She sure got Heavy quick !! LoL Ol Deuce

[Texas by God]

Can a .45 cal ML barrel be used with a 45-70 chamber to use patched round ball seated inside the case? Maybe a card wad on top and a slight roll crimp? Of course it would be Black powder only. Am I crazy?

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[Texas by God]

John Taylor, your 28 gauge rifle sounds similar to one of my dream guns- a Topper rifle in .577 Snider. I'll be watching this!

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